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Fortheloveofgassers

I Really Like Like This Hobby,,,,, But

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I love the ranchero police vechicle. Thanks for sharing Tom. It would be fun to see it completed.

Mvc001s-vi.jpg

Mvc003s-vi.jpg

It is complete. I just showed the one shot to illustrate the problem I had. Police goodies came from the Johan '59 Rambler wagon.

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I feel your pain. There's no more frustrating feeling than when you lay down an awesome paint job, just to have the wind blow it in the dirt or drop a 90% done build on a tile floor, all of which have happened to me. But like you said, there are some awesome people on this forum to help. I drop the cab for one of my Freightliner COE on the tile floor and busted it up. Then a member here had an extra and saved my build. Glad to hear your build is saved.

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The last decals that I cleared with Testors One Coat was Revells Hawaiian funny car. I cleared the large white stripes so they would have the same gloss as the rest of the body. I had no problems. I went through a phase when I cleared all my decals, but now I don't. It usually isn't necessary. Slixx decals are so thin that most will never notice one way or another. To each his own, but to me , it's just another door for Murphy to come through.

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How come nobody is using Future over the decals?? You can still shoot Testors or Tamiya clear over the Future. The Future will protect your decals from the hot clear coats.

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We've all learned from similar mistakes. It's all trial and error until you get it right.... Then it's awesome. Keep up the good work. Try misting a little clear in a few coats before laying it on thicker, may help!!!!!

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...I learned (The Hard Way) a few years ago that Slixx decals, despite how great they are otherwise, tend to run when there is a silver pigment on them and you shoot clear over top. One small decal out of the bunch (It was a GN stock car) of contingencies ran under the clear, and it was mostly silver. The other decals were fine. I later tested 2 scrap Slixx decals again with the same clear and had the same result with the silver one while the other was fine. Coincidence? I don't know----just sharing my findings.

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Fortheloveofgassers(Ed) - Did you ever get this one done?

I just read through this thread and found a lot of inspiration.  Today I sprayed 2K Urethane Gloss clear on a body and had the decals wrinkle.  I was under the impression that urethane clear was safer over decals but I found it isn't.  This will be the 2nd time I'm stripping it and the 3rd paint/decals coming up.  I seem to be on a mission to complete it.  The decals took about 12 hours to apply and I'll be doing it a 3rd time.  The first time the urethane clear had a lot of orange peel and when I was polishing it with the micromesh cloths I burned through a couple of spots.  I tried touching it up and then it all went down hill.  I seem to be having every problem with this build. 

Edited by crowe-t

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Fortheloveofgassers(Ed) - Did you ever get this one done?

I just read through this thread and found a lot of inspiration.  Today I sprayed 2K Urethane Gloss clear on a body and had the decals wrinkle.  I was under the impression that urethane clear was safer over decals but I found it isn't.  This will be the 2nd time I'm stripping it and the 3rd paint/decals coming up.  I seem to be on a mission to complete it.  The decals took about 12 hours to apply and I'll be doing it a 3rd time.  The first time the urethane clear had a lot of orange peel and when I was polishing it with the micromesh cloths I burned through a couple of spots.  I tried touching it up and then it all went down hill.  I seem to be having every problem with this build. 

Probably sprayed too heavy of a first coat. I've found with the Urethane clears that if you thin it some instead of relying only on the hardener to do it that it tends to flow out better, not look like it is dipped in the stuff, and you don't need as much to start out avoiding the orange peal. This allows you to use less helping to avoid the problem. I've been going that route for quite a few years without any problems. Also drying time of the decals and how well they are adhered to the body affect that. Too soon after applying the decals and they tend to lift or wrinkle. I also use solvaset quite often to help with the decal adhesion. Seems to work for me with pretty good success rate, especially with older decals.

Paul

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In my experience, Slixx decals DO NOT like lacquer clear paint. They will craze (wrinkle up) with lacquer clear overcoat. Perhaps a few light coats of lacquer could work but then you'll most likely have a rough surface to contend with (adding more clear until you have too much). I use Testors Model Master Enamel Top Coat #2936 with no problems over Slixx decals. The trade off with enamel is that it doesn't dry as hard as lacquer making polishing difficult, it's almost impossible to get enamel to buff out without having a hazy surface. That's my experience, I live in a very humid climate and I'm sure that contributes to painting woes. Remember, never spray lacquer over enamel, the enamel will craze. Enamel over lacquer is okay. My $.02 and worth both pennies. Now, go paint something.... -RRR

 

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I know the feeling, there is nothing worse than spending all that time on the body and the last step makes you start over. I bought a 73 Corvette kit that took forever to find. I must have used the wrong primer because when I painted the body it came out all webbed. I thought I was going to have a heart attack.  I sanded it all down again, used a different primer and then had fish eye. At this point I was ready to crush the body. I let it sit for about a week until I cooled off and then got it right. So the moral of the story is not to give up, you can always correct a problem when it happens. Good luck with the build. 

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Ed - so glad you're sticking to it and not letting this make you throw it in the box and back in storage. Many times I've just had to walk away and come back another day.

Has this build been completed? Let us know of your progress.

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