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’73 Camaro


Scale-Master

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is it safe to assume you put in urethane bushings when you modified the front suspension?

they really made a big difference in my '67 Tempest along with the 1-9/16 front sway bar upgrade. :)

Edited by blunc
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Yes, I used graphite impregnated urethane bushings throughout when I first set it up, including the sub-frame mounts, but except for the upper control arm bushings.

Because I set the front spring rate to "Competition" (instead of the "Sport" or "Street" options) those bushings are standard rubber to provide a manageable "weak link" I could easily monitor from under the hood since I expected it to be harsh. They are still the same ones (and in fine shape) from back then.

I also shaved the lower control arm bushings to move the lower control arms forward and gained about 1/4 inch in overall wheelbase, also visually centering the front wheels in the wells. The resulting added caster was dealt with in the shims at the upper control arms. I run a bit more camber than stock to maximize the wear on the tires and to get the best contact patch on moderate to hard cornering.

The rear sway bar uses lead bushings on the bar since it will blow out the urethane ones in less than 500 miles of good use. I custom cast those myself and have had zero problems since I started using them about 1992.

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I started painting some of the base colors of the chassis. The red oxide is partly visible on the real car where I stripped away the undercoating before installing the engine and trans.

DSC05262_zpsbxrjnzbm.jpg

DSC05264_zpsgutnvir7.jpg

The cross member on my car is bright red; ironically the instructions call out for a non-prototypical yellow for the rear sway bar, and I painted mine yellow back in the 90’s.

The engine was test fitted once more…

DSC05263_zpslhmz89m9.jpg

The rear suspension ride height is set up.

DSC05260_zpslbjatq5i.jpg

And the track is set.

DSC05261_zpsjoigvai8.jpg

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I cut the front sway bar off the lower control arm/tie rod/cross-member assembly and reshaped it to fit the new lower A-arms. I started with brass rod for the stabilizer links and will flesh them out with hardware later. I figure the yellow paint fattened up the thickness enough to approximate the 1-1/4 Suspension Techniques bar I put on the real car…

DSC05276_zpsye5znime.jpg

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Looks nice. What is that yellow rear sway bar going to mount to?

I still have to add the stabilizer links to the clamps that are on the bar. They'll go in after I permanently mount the rear suspension to the chassis.

Incredible build and a nice street car to boot. I own a 70 Z28 SS/RS that I've owned since 79. I'm watching your build glad your taking your time and doing an accurate build.

Thanks, but there is no such thing as a first or second generation Z/28 SS Camaro. It is either one or the other. The RS package was available on both Z/28 and SS cars.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I used to use Smooth-On, but had the same experience you describe.  I now use products from BJB Enterprises.  I use TC-5045, a platinum based RTV for my molds .  The resin I use is TC-892.  These materials are over two an a half years old and still working well.

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  • 4 months later...

The valve covers are resin copies I cast from a Revell Supertruck.  I used talc to texture them.

 

The first set of headers I made proved to be too tight of a fit into the sub-frame, so I modified a pair from the AMT ’66 Nova.  I’ll finish the look of the ceramic coating after they are installed onto the engine.

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