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k100

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Posts posted by k100

  1. Hello

    It’s been a while sense I’ve been able to work the Transtar , I decided that frame was a little too short and I didn’t like the look of the cobbled mess of the old spliced area , so carefully cut the frame and added about 3/4 of an inch of frame , also reworked the fire wall area around the motor to make room for the Cummins , and reworked the air intake and filter box .

    Steve : thanks for the comment the brake Chambers are from a Revell Peterbilt 359 .

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    • Like 3
  2. Thanks for the comments .

    Gary: yes I moved the cab forward about 3/8 of inch from the original mounting Location, as for the firewall just had to sand a little off bottom cab corners , it fits good off the frame I’ll need to do some shimming to get it fit good on the frame .

    Scott: I’m just using the kit motor in this one , I thought about swapping the motor out maybe on the next one I’ll do that.

    I got front axle mounted added U bolts & nuts , made new shocks , and mocked up the steering box and shaft , all the pictures I’ve seen online has this type of steering box not like the one in the kit, I have an old S- series in the parts bin I took steering box off that just to see if it would fit , I think it will work . The U joint is from a Moebius Ford pickup kit .

    The under side of the hood is finished it didn’t turn out too bad.

    The last picture reminds me of seeing Glider trucks setting in the lots when Intentional Harvester was still in Ft. Wayne . 
    Thanks 

     

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    • Like 3
  3. Thank you for all the comments .

    Steve: thank you, I might put spoke wheels on the rear ,undecided yet .

    Gary: actually the hood lines up fine off the frame , with the frame twisted Ill have to shim the cab to make it fit correctly.

    Steve: thank you 

    Started some under hood detail, I added 2 stiffening ribs and trying to make some generic inner fender wells . Also reworked the hood hinges I added some styrene to the original hood hinge so I could drill holes to use brass rod, the hinge mounts on the frame were drill all the way through. 

    Thanks for for looking .

     

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    • Like 3
  4. I recently bought a cheap 4300 kit at the local flea market it was a complete kit , the frame had been started but was broken and badly bent  I fixed the frame by making it shorter , the 4300 hood and cab on the shorter frame just didn't look right , so I decided to cut the hood down to make it a 4200. I got the engine built ,painted and plumed .

    I know the front axle is too wide ,so I used the axle from the C0-4070A as a reference to cut the axle down ,also replaced the kits plastic tie rod with brass tubing .

    Added some detail to the air tanks and battery box , I'm going to use 2 hole Bud wheels and tires from Sense Unlimited.

    Thanks for looking .

     

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    • Like 4
  5. Jeff & Brian thank you ,you guy's are right about the fit issues , I got the frame pretty square but the rear cab mount is crooked , I had to cut the tabs off just to get the cab lined up with hood .

    Ben & Steve thank you the comments.

    Edwin thank you for the tip I will use that next time .

    Just a little update I decided to open the grill for a more realistic look  .

    Thanks for looking .

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    • Like 4
  6. Lee, Brian thank you for the comments .

    This is how my version of the Alaskan hauler is turning out ,after fighting with the alignment of the hood ,cab, and sleeper I decided to omit the sleeper all together . After some shimming and a few swear words I got the hood and cab  lined up fairly decent . The rear suspension is now mounted in place , I decided to add a tag axle .

    The frame is almost complete need to add air tanks and the fuel tank .

    Thanks for looking 

    Mark

     

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    • Like 1
  7. Ben thank you the comment , Tim’s web site is great place to get ideals from,I seen his Alaskan hauler that gave me inspiration to build this .

    I also had trouble aligning the cab and hood I ended up cutting off 2 Locating pin on the rear cab mount then I was able to align the cab to the hood and front cab mounts I also had to shim up the right cab mount so the cab would set level .

    Mark

    • Like 1
  8. Thank you guys for all the information , it’s good know , I was just assuming they were straight . 
    I worked on modifying the right air cleaner added a warm air intake and modified the hood side panel .

    I know this isn’t the correct set up for this truck but I like the looks of this better than having it running down to the lower panel .

    still have some clean up to do but wanted to do a quick mock up .

    thanks

    Mark

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    • Like 4
  9. Thank you for the comments .

    I was able work on the rear suspension this weekend all tho it’s not finished yet have add the air brakes ,man it was a Challenge getting everything lined up , there are located pins but they are very shallow and hard to keep inline, it took a lot patients . The instructions are just pictures and are hard to till where exactly the parts to go .      
    Im not happy with the way the drive shaft is off center but it is what it is I guess .

    I used U joints from ST Supply and made the drive shaft . I had to add some shims to make the frame set level.                                            
    After I took the picture of the suspension I knocked it off the desk and broke the rear axle off , luckily I was able to repair but it’s alittle crooked .

    thanks for looking

    Mark

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    • Like 7
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