ModelcarJR

This is the Revell Hertz kit that I originally painted a Dupli-Color Silver Blue that wasn't blue enough so I added a mist coat of Dupli-color Bahama Blue Metallic and now I guess its a lighter, light blue metallic. The interior is black. No detailing and I sanded off the V8 emblem and Mustang lettering on the front fenders as they were faint and would be hard to foil. I don't have a decal for them. Other than that build box stock. The last photo shows 3 different shades of blue for the Mustangs I recently built. The 71 351 in Tamiya Light blue, that I call Grabber Blue, the 71 Mach 1 in Bahama Blue Metallic, a light metallic blue and this one that I call a lighter, light blue metallic. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Andy, Carl, and Len! I appreciate your comments! I must admit that I know very little about Mustangs. In fact, I have never owned a Ford, let alone a Mustang. But my wife has a 66 Mustang in the garage, a coupe, and it has a wood grain dash and glove box panels in it and no pony interior. Maybe it was aftermarket. She might have even added it. I know she bought a new steering wheel and had it installed but that was 20 years ago so I'll ask her but she probably doesn't remember either. Or maybe coupes were different from fastbacks? I don't know or as my Grandson's would say, IDK. This one is done! I didn't add the V8 emblem on the front fender or the pony badge with Mustang lettering. Both were very faintly molded so I sanded them off and don't have a decal for them. Went together OK and is just another to add to the collection. The last photo is a comparison of paint for recently built Mustangs. The 71 351 is Tamiya light blue that I call Grabber Blue and it must have been pretty convincing because it received a theme award for Best Mustang in Show in Houston. The Mach 1 is Bahama Blue Metallic which is a light blue metallic in my estimation. And then there is this build, which I guess is lighter light blue metallic built mostly box stock. Thanks for looking! ?

Interior is done, engine is done and in the chassis, interior and chassis have met the body. Now I just need to find some wheels. I used the ones in this kit for the AMT 71 Mustang Mach 1 that I recently built. But it shouldn't be a problem. I have plenty in the parts box. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Len! that's what I was shooting for. In my camera it looks more blue. And thanks, Carl and Bob! I appreciate your comments too!

Thanks again, everyone! I appreciate your comments! ?

Looks great, David! I can't believe you spent only 52 hours on this one. It would take me a lifetime! Nice work! And I love the Pearl Green paint! ??

Really cool ol' school build! Nice! ??

Beautiful build, Eric! Love the paint finish! Nice work! ??

You're right! It looks much darker in the photos than it actually looks to the eye. Its much lighter but maybe it is too blue. the interior is black. Thanks for looking! ?

This is the Hertz kit that I am not going to build with the gold stripe. Been there, done that poorly. But I've had the kit for awhile and recently found a can of Dupli-color Silver Blue for $3 at Ollie's. So I thought I would give it a try. Turns out it was more silver than blue, a Honda color. So I thought I would just give it a mist coat of Bahama Blue Metallic to see if I could create a silver blue, a color for 1966 Ford. It looks a little blochy under the light, but as my wife pointed out under normal light it looks even and sparkly! I took that to mean metallic so I thought why not - leave it as is! So I painted the inner engine bay and all the other parts and now its foiled. I am not going to do any detail on this one just do it box stock. So now I will have a silver blue Mustang the hard way! Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your comments!

I don't know what happened to my text but I am not going to recreate it as it was 2 paragraphs long. Let's just say that I tried to use the Duster 340 chassis with an engine from the 68 Dodge Charger that became a 383. The chassis and inner fender liners worked out fine up front but the rear suspension was off quite a bit getting the wheels centered in the wheel openings which lead to destruction of the rear suspension and the cure was similar to slotted metal axles in the rear and the tailpipe extensions are glued to the chassis. Thanks for looking! ?

Looks good, Dan! ??

This one is done except for decals and a few other minor parts like exterior mirrors and backup lights. There are a lot of parts in the engine bay so it took a little longer to finish today. The body, foil, engine bay, interior and wheels all turned out OK so I guess its not too bad. a couple of things I would do differently it I did it all over again: 1. use a shorter 440 engine for a 383 or use the one in this kit. 2. If using the Duster 340 chassis, make sure not to try to use the pins on the inner fenders in the holes in the frame. Remove the pins and move the frame about 1/8" forward and remove the frame horns. 3. Assemble the entire chassis and make sure to line up BOTH suspensions in the wheel openings of the body with wheels on. I'll finish the decals in the next day or two and move on to the next one! Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, David and Carl! I appreciate your comments! I finished the detailing on the interior yesterday early and then turned to installing the windows and mounting the interior in the body and body on the chassis. Unfortunately, that's where the cookie crumbles! I installed the interior with no problems but when gluing the chassis to the body my thought from the beginning was to use the locator pins on the inner fenders in the holes of the chassis to make the glue joint easier. I did that and the engine looks good in the engine bay so everything looks good up front. But the rear axle was very short of center of the wheel opening. I tried to adjust by moving the springs forward but it wasn't enough to center the wheel in the openig so in order to do more I had to take out the exhaust pipes from the muffler back remove the driveshaft and unfortunately broke the shocks taking them out So I mounted the springs way forward and I am not replacing or putting everything back at this point. Maybe if I had used another engine that wasn't as thick up front, i.e., water pump and fan assembly, there would have been more room to move the chassis forward and solve the problem. But I couldn't move the engine back anymore so the chassis has to stay where it is as there is little to no room up front. If I were to build it again, I would use a different engine than the Revell 68 Charger 440 and ignore the pin placements and move the chassis further forward. But as my father always said "hind sight is always 20-20 and maybe half a loaf is better than none!" By the way, Round 2 added an extra set of 5-spoke wheels that are not a part of the chrome tree and a four blade fan. I used these wheels and the tires from the MPC kit (whitewalls that I turned around) and the wheelbacks from the Duster kit to fit the hubs of the axles. I should have used the four blade fan too because now I have to remove the radiator to drill an new hole at the left corner of the radiator and make a top hose to fit in order to avoid contact with the bigger fan blades. So now I'll finish the rest of the hardware, decals and glue the tailpipe extensions to the chassis floor to stick out the rear! Thanks for looking! ?