hedotwo

Great build of a cool vert! Made for parades.... I can just picture a congressman or beauty queen waving from the back seat ?

I call this a 50' foil job. Looks great from a distance but up close I wasn't as happy as I'd hoped. I fought with this pack of BMF, an unfortunately frequent thing lately. Thanks for the comment though Bob ?

Great build Steve!

Beautiful build Al! Love it ?

Thanks!

Began as a decent builder that needed only a bit of body TLC and to restore the front suspension pieces. Scalefinishes Massachusetts Blue cleared with Tamiya and a craft acrylic Ivory and Deep Midnight Blue interior.

I generally let the pieces that I've sprayed Molotow on air dry for maybe 8 hours before putting in the dehydrator. I haven't noticed any less shine before or after the dehydrator. In my experience it seems like clears don't like to be put in a dehydrator too soon.

So a little update on saving the suspension pieces I had with this builder. One spindle was good to go but the other had to be massaged and holes drilled/rod installed, and the same for the brake drums. The tie rod ends were ok but the assembly was broken. Kinda fiddly, but I ended up with an acceptable (for me) assembly and the wheels are level and straight. Now, I know the angle of the tie rod isn't kosher and it's orientation isn't correct but I chose to reverse it so I could use the lowered stance per the instruction sheet. Happy I didn't need to scrounge up the pieces. Lord knows I have enough pieces to look for my many other builders. Took a bit, but worth it.

The '66 Buicks... the "Tuned Cars". Love your build Tom, good job!

Great build George!

I've been doing alot of Molotow chroming lately (airbrushed) and have also found the S-02 to be the best at retaining as much of the Molotow's shine, however I can't seem to get it to lay smoothly when airbrushing. I've experimented with Gauzy Intermediate as well and found it to lay much better than the S-02 but I lose a fair amount of shine. So, I've had good luck with plain old brushing the S-02 and so far, so good. I may experiment with airbrushing a wet coat of S-02 on a junk bumper to see how that works. I know one thing for sure is that you need to let the Molotow dry for quite some time. I use my dehydrator and keep them in for around 24 hours. Not sure if that's overkill or not, but maybe more of a feel-good

Nice clean build James!

Great job!

I've always used flip ups because the tunnel vision with the optivisor style (like the Carson model that Zippi got) really bothers me. Lots of people love them but I just couldn't get used to them. The flip ups (Tamiya or the Carson I have) work much better for my eyes as I can see peripherally. Everyone is different and that's why there are many styles to choose from.

Great job! Love it... P.S... your mention of Steve's help are my feelings as well. He's helped me with good advice on my attempts at stock builds in the past as well.

I used Tamiya's flip up "glasses" until I found a tip on these Carson flip ups. I like these as much as the Tamiya's except they're much more comfortable because they're not the clamp type but rather a headband type. The Tamiya's are pretty tight. The optics on these Carson's are every bit as good too. I got them on Amazon a few months ago.

Love the color combo! Nice build.

Great job John!

Big change! Love the new look!

Nice build and I like the garage dio too.

Great build Al!

Joseph's stuff is first class and he's great to work with! I wish all aftermarket vendors ran their business's like his.

I got it from Amazon a couple of years ago and I think it was around $70. I use it for stubborn stuff because it really does work, at least in my experience. I don't use the heater function because it seems to heat up a bit on it's own. I use any Super Clean I have laying around that's been used alot prior as I think it's more the ultrasonic than the fluid that does the work maybe. I use the 480 sec cycle as many times as it takes. Couple things I've found is that it WILL start to etch into the plastic if you cycle it too many times and not reposition the item in the basket. The center of the tank is where the majority of the cleaning happens from what I see. I'll take my time securing the item (usually chassis or interiors) to the basket so that it stays in the center. I have a few homemade things I use for that. Take real care if you do bodies so you don't risk etching the surface (don't ask me how I know). You're fine if after each 480 sec cycle you reposition and start again. Kind of putzy, but it works. The basket has handles but the plastic that holds them deteriorated and broke off. I use them sometimes to "cage" the item to the center of the tank. Last thing is that I don't keep the used Super Clean in the stainless tank but pour it into a separate container to keep for the next time, and then wipe the tank out. I'm sure the Super Clean will eventually harm the SS.

If/when I get to that point with Tamiya primer I just leave it. Generally, I'm going to be primering again anyway and 95% of my primering is with either gray or white Tamiya. It's so fine that even with some leftover primer to cover (provided the old stuff has been feathered if needed) it covers great. But I agree, it's a biotch to remove. I have had luck with my ultrasonic cleaner to get stuff in the nooks and crannies if I position the part in the center of the fluid (where the cleaning action/bubbles are strongest), but even then it takes a number of cycles to do it.

Thanks Ray!