hedotwo

Thanks Steve ?

Quick update... finally got a nice sunny day here in the Wisconsin northwoods today and I was able to soak the glass in hydrogen peroxide in full sun for 10 hours so far and unfortunately no change in the yellow. I'm thinking I'll need to make my own. I'll post in the wanted section to see if anyone might have a spare front windshield from the common '62 convertible kit. I think the rear glass might be a bit easier than the front. Thanks for all the suggestions!

Thanks Tom

I’d thought about trying to make the glass too, Steve. To be honest, I’ve never tried it in all the years I’ve been building. This might be a great time to try ?

Sweet '41!

I've masked a few times with acrylic and found you need to be gentle with the burnishing of the edges but spraying such light coats over the tape edges really doesn't require you to press it down that hard to keep it from bleeding through like you might have to with rattle cans where the paint comes out heavier.

Yes, I've worked on both the inside and the outside. I've never seen glass like this either, but it sure seems there's no end to it. I'll try the peroxide tip next although today is overcast wouldn't you know. I'll let you know if it worked. Thanks

Lots of work went into this one! Looks super!

I've used Folk Art (metallics, satin, and flat) a number of times for bodies. It's just another option for me to use and I don't use them exclusively. As a rule, I find they lay flat and you need to be patient and build up a number of coats. I use Creatix 4012 as my thinner, but have used plain old blue washer fluid also, with no real negatives. You do have to make sure you mix really well and I also strain through my homemade sieve before shooting too. The psi is 20-25. I have a nice little compact hair dryer that I use on the low setting between the thin coats and once I feel I've covered to where I want to be I then put it in the dehydrator for maybe 12 hours. Sanding is the big negative to craft acrylics, in my opinion. Thankfully, the paint lays flat and I've found that using a cotton cloth you can lightly buff the paint to get the surface even smoother. You also have to be careful of finger prints as they'll leave marks. Then comes the clear which is needed for sure to protect the delicate paint. I use Dupli-Color clear and build up a nice shine that will then accept polishing and light wet sanding if needed. I've found the Dupli-Color clear only needs a good polishing, not wet sanding. I'm not into contest quality builds but this type of painting has given me good results with easy cleanup and, as an added benefit it's great to use indoors if needed.

How long did you leave yours in the alcohol Tom? Mine was in maybe 24 hours.

Beautiful job! Congrats!

Well, not surprisingly soaking overnight in the 92% alcohol didn't faze the yellow. I'll give the wet sanding one more try today, but not expecting much. Not sure about lightly tinting as I've never had any luck the times I've tried it. The sunlight test wouldn't hurt and I may try that. I'm assuming Future can be tinted to create a window tint? What would be good to use for the tint? Craft acrylic maybe? The times I've brushed Future it leveled decent and if it bombs I can easily remove it. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Right now it's soaking in 92% alcohol and I'll keep an eye on it with fingers crossed. When I was wet sanding it was a yellowish slurry that continued to come off as I continued to sand, with no visible change for the better. I mainly used a 400 Tamiya sponge pad to do most of the heavy cutting. I'll keep plugging away at it, but not holding out much hope. I'll remember you for this glass Steve should I decide to go a different route and I wouldn't need it any longer. Wonder where this yellowing would come from. Cigarette smoke maybe? The promo paint looked like acid rain had fallen on it ?, but it stripped fine in Super Clean.

I finally got around to beginning restoration of a '63 T-Bird hardtop promo I'd picked up a while ago. I never noticed the heavily yellowed glass until I began disassembly to restore paint/chrome/etc. I've spent the past two hours wet sanding and swear I've taken the glass to half thickness and the yellow is still there ?. I've come to the conclusion that the yellow is all the way through, even though not all the glass is yellowed, just what was exposed to whatever. So, my question is..... will the glass from the AMT '62 HT Bird work on my '63? Or, does someone have another idea how to remove the yellow? I'd read through an older post that said to try to give it an alcohol bath?

Great build Larry! Always love the old Ponchos and this one is looking good.

No disrespect intended to the OP Rick when I neglected to comment on his obviously nice build of the '67. I guess I lost track that I was in the "Under Glass" topic. Great build Rick ?!

When mine arrives I'm planning on a Marina Blue/black vinyl top stock build. I reeeally want to find some way to use stock wheel covers (or at a minimum something "resembling" OEM, not rally's or dog dish. I took my driver license test in my dad's year old blue '67 4dr on my 16th birthday in '68. Been wanting to do this for a LONG time ?

Great save! Love seeing restorations!

Great! Love the color combo!

Don't mean to detour this thread, but I have a question for you folks. I picked up this R&R resin '65 Cutlass years ago that I'm assuming had its' beginning as the '64 AMT HT kit? To my knowledge, a '65 was never made? I'm not about to complain though.... my first car as a teenager was a two year old '65 F-85 2dr post bought from my girlfriends' sister/brother in law, and beggars can't be choosy. This will take some massaging to make happen but hopefully it'll look ok when finished.

Great build! Love the choice of chrome reverse too.

I can't claim this tip as my own as there have been a few posts on it years ago, but I was happy to learn of it as I tend to do lots of builds that have built in chrome headlights. I found these at Hobby Lobby and picked up various sizes for the headlights I encounter. After experimenting on a few, I found that using my close up glasses and a real sharp knife I could slice just the convex from the remainder. I was left with what looked like hard contact lenses. These aren't entirely domed shaped so you really have to slice them carefully to get just the dome without sides. I tried the 7mm size and it fit the headlights from my '55 chev gasser I'm currently working on. Granted it will be much tougher on smaller headlights but at least the result is worth it. I sprayed the chrome with Dullcote and then clear canopy glue to hold the lenses down.

Great color!

Same here Steve ?

Good job! Looks great!