bmc010
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Posts posted by bmc010
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also keep in mind the seat...ive built a few nice pro mod chassis only to find out i didnt leave enough room for the seat...i wont start unless i have complete drive train in hand before i start. It helps to have other parts such as steering components and things you want to go inside the car to do test fits as you go.
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Any body out there know of someone making a round valve handle, you know the part you turn to turn your nos bottles and air bottles on and off for drag cars? im looking for some in photo etch and i just dont know who makes them. If not are there any photo etch guys out there that can make them? i can provide vector drawings to scale. Any help always appreciated.
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I would say the Model Master line of Lacquer paints is decent , I dont use enamel so I wont comment on that, I have heard very good things about Mr Hobby line of paints, and some say are better the Tamiya, I am in the process of trying to buy a few cans of Mr Hobby Primer to try out
NIce thing about Model Master Lacquer , is Hobby Lobby sells them, so if you have one near you, use a 40% off coupon
Duplicolor is good as well, a lot of folks use Duplicolor , I would say its about the same price, but you get two times as much
i second duplicolor it goes on easy and has a great range of colors that look good...better than your rustoleum or krylons
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if i can add my two cents i like to use spray glue like fix a tif found in the local craft store...it works well for laying down vinyl tops as well...just have to practice on a junk piece first to achieve the right look...i only use it cause i have it laying around for matting photos!
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the main issues i had to work around were the headlight grills...but i wanted them to dome like the real car and ran into a pickle doing so...i ended up reshaping the headlight bucket slightly to make them work. Other than that i didnt have any serious fit issues that a little trimming or sanding could not fix. It is a nice detail set for the car. I wish i still had it so i could show photos...but its one i built several years ago...possibly up to ten years ago...but i remember it fitting pretty well. hope this helps
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i recently got a body off ebay that was slightly warped in a flat spot threw it in the microwave for ten seconds and was able to pull it back into place. it took two tries as the first time i didnt hold it long enough in place and it "remembered" where it was before. Not knowing where you got it or how long you have had it, you might be able to contact the dealer and see about a swap. Thats what the guy i bought my body was willing to do if the microwave trick didnt fix it.
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Hi guys....I always wanted to build a drag racing model but never really knew how to get started. I wanna build a 1/16 scale dodge Daytona pro mod.I seen a few guys on here build em an they turn out magnificant.so I have a few questions on how to get started.feel free to give any kind of advice that may help me.
#1.... where do I buy the body and any parts i would need?
answer flashpoint motorsports is where you would buy that body. I have both 24 and 16 scale bodies from them and they are excelent.
#2.... for the roll cage is there a certain way to build it or do you guys look at a picture n go off of that? And how would you size it down to scale?
answer take a look in the drag racing section at the way everyone builds the cages. there are a pretty specific way that every one builds it including myself. Start with the floor and then the transrails and work your way from the inside out. Its a lot harder to put a detail in the cockpit after you have the full cage built. so planning is the key here and lots and lots of photos. there are tons all over the web as well as almost a step by step on how guys here do theirs. As far as tube size i believe .100 would be correct for a 1/16 scale build. everything you do divide by 16 and that will give you your size. so 1.75" tubing is what is generally used divide by 16 and you get .109 so step that down to your .100 and go from there
#3.... do I really have to know about pro mods to build one or is there enough info on the internet that I can copy it?
answer no you dont really need to know about them but personally they are my favorite build subject cause i absolutely love the raw power and beauty of the real cars. but there is enough reference material online you can put together an entire car without knowing anything about them. if you like pm me and i can send you some of my reference photos. I have ones found online as well as ones i have taken at the races.
#4.... is there anything I should know before I start one?
answer plan it out....there can be a lot that go into one of these cars as your basically scratch building an entire car from parts gathered all around the place. so just plan your build dont just dig in and go for it, you are almost certain to overlook something and not be happy with the result or not want to undo what you just spent a few days doing.
#5.... I've never worked with resin. Is there anything special I need to do or know bout it?
answer best general advice i can give here is to clean with weslys bleach before doing anything. wear a dust mask when sanding it down. If you are unsure about the paint your using if it will work with the resin, either spray a little bit on the inside to see how it reacts, or the bodies will generally come with the windows filled in, cut that out and save it for test spraying later on. Other wise its a lot like plastic when it comes to final painting after you have your primer on.
hope this helps and feel free to ask any questions. I know pro mod cars can be intimidating but they results and rewards are outstanding and you will be very happy with yourself after you accomplish a build.
That's all the questions I can think of for now. Feel free to give any advice or help on this subject. In advance thanks for all the help and answers.
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i am decent at laying the paint down, so areas that need to be white or lighter colors i can plan for that when i lay my paint. i am looking and seeing that papilio papers would be a decent option. I do prefer "laser" printing as i occasionally run a digital press at work, that, all said and done is basically a 30 foot long laser printer. Im also seeing that printing myself, will lead to having to spray a coating over the printed area. How thick or thin do i need to lay this down in order to have a sucessful run? As i said in the op i can make my own bodies and test these all day long, but i would rather try with the best results from the get go and learn from there. And, as said before i can lay down paints to work with the decals i print myself weather i use a white back or a clear back. so with that said....is there a benefit to a decal being printed laser or inkjet? I understand alps is the way to go but i just dont have access to it nor am i willing or wanting to pay the 20+ after shipping for a sheet or decals when i know i can print my own and with a little duct tape and bubble gum make it look like the high end stuff. Thanks for all the replies btw. Greg you actually tapped on something i have been thinking about getting into is printing my own photo etch parts. I know there are some fabulous parts from futureattraction and the dirtmodeler but i find myself wanting other parts or kit sets that are more complete than offered so thank you for that link! Again thank you all for the support, i am a member to several forums involving all of my hobbies and it seems that across the board all my questions are stupid questions....i didnt know such a thing existed go figure. Again thanks.
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so i dont have access to an alps printer, how ever i do have access to both high quality professional grade inkjet as well as digital high speed presses with amazing quality. I am wondering what the better papers and better techniques are for printing my own decals. I am a graphic designer by trade so the design end is no issue, i have tried a google search and am just not overly happy with the results as they are not really model car based. I am looking to print on both white and clear sheets and they will be for pro mod bodies that i have laying around. Some are my own masters and i have several so screwing things up is not a huge issue. Any help will be much appreciated! thanks guys
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ill throw a few of mine out there why not. first one is a pro mod willys i made the bug catcher from styrene strips and tube....second one is a blown motor in a pro mod viper i am still working on last one is a 41 willys pro street type build i finished.
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you mentioned building the chassis might be a challenge, i would do the front half like a normal pro mod car and then attached is a photo i found somewhere long ago of how i would do the rear. I believe this is a photo of a pro mod truck rear end chasis. sorry its so small...ive had it forever. Hope this helps and ill be watching!
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this build is way cool i totally dig the out of the box thinking on it!
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ive seen your avatar around the forums it catches my eye every time im a huge broncos fan we have season tickets and dont miss a game!
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wow arvada thats super close to me im broomfield my uncle lives in arvada pm me we can chat more there!!
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lol the snow here is melted but in the mountains it is still around. we snowed super hard for two days then dove into 80 degree weather and were hanging there. it was great i was able to do some painting and build the motor for my hot rod
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I have posted a few times here but thought out do in and say hi. I'm 31 been building since I was 6 or 7 and always strive to build better cars. My favorite subjects are pro mod by far, rat rods, good ole Detroit muscle and things that you might hot have seen before. Other hobbies I take too seriously at hot rod building, rock crawlers, fishing, hiking, camping and computers. I am a graphic designer for the university of Colorado as a full time spot and have a strong background in the tattoo industry as well as professional photography. I'm trying to learn every aspect I can about building both model cars and 1:1 cars. Ive taken a lot from this forum and now I think I can give back. If any one is interested I can post photos of past builds! I look forward to your conments!
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if i recall from when this build was started, the yellow stuff on the injector was tamiya putty hardened and sanded to shape.
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i actually got the idea from you and this nova build rick thanks for the pics!
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i dont have any pics of it but i use medical tape. i use sharpie to black or red, i use it for my chute bags, blower bags on the engine and wrap my lenco tranny in it as well as seat belts. it works well for 24th scale and looks very real. just make your pattern out of paper first and make sure it fits and wraps well, then transfer it to the medical tape. you can get it at wal mart with the bandages, two white rolls, 24 yards for 3.29
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where did you get those pullies and what are you using for that belt...looks amazing man cant wait to see more and good luck on the house
Plug Wires - What Brand / Diameter?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
i use 32 gauge magnet wire from radio shack its the perfect size comes in several colors, readily available and dirt cheap for more wire than you will probably ever need