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Pete J.

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About Pete J.

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name
    Pete Johnson

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  1. Mike one piece of advise on the deals. They really do not like flat paint finishes. You tend to get "silvering" under the clear parts which can really mess up the look. That silvering is the microscopic air bubbles trapped under the decal film. Military modelers deal with it this way. They put down a gloss finish, decal the model and then overspray with clear in the gloss they want. That way, if they lay down one finish and don't like it, they can just put a coat of something else over the top.
  2. As I mentioned, I got mine in Sterling Colorado. It is a small town in north eastern Colorado. The dealer had almost no show room and one mechanic. You put your name on the list and when one came in you could buy it or go to the back of the list. Never really liked the color of mine, but it was mine! The dealer wasn't doing the big town games because he had a much smaller customer base and needed his reputation to stay clean. He didn't charge any more than the MSRP. I was lucky to deal with him. Of course is probably didn't hurt that he was a WWII vet and I was a young second Lieutenan
  3. Interestingly enough those are very similar to stock US wheels except they were wheel covers. Most owners swapped them out for something else because they made a weird clunking sound. Never did figure out what that was.
  4. You are right about the LHD . My Bad. The 240z badges are already there and the only pieces that need changing are the "Datsun" hood badges and front quarter panels and the rear deck lid The center console is the same on both cars and flipping the wipers is something any builder could do. You would probably have to change the pedals as well. The dash, firewall, master cylinder, steering shaft and rack and pinion, as well as the front pieces need replacement. Still, not a huge undertaking! Perhaps they will come out with the Safari car in 1/24th as well. That would take care of the fr
  5. That is a real quality video. Thanks for posting it. In looking at the instruction sheets, I count less than 8 parts to make a RHD spec 240Z. Also the layout on the sprues look like it would not be all that difficult to do. The parts that need to change are pretty much on their own sprues. My guess is that Tamiya could pop one more sprue and get all the conversion parts. I also noticed that the metal transfers have all the right pieces already. Please! Oh, Please Tamiya!
  6. First car I ever bought by myself was a 72 240Z. I would kill for an aftermarket set for LHD and short nose! I know it is a lot of design work, but would it be that difficult to scan the kit dash and mirror image it and 3D print it? Probably, but just an idea for all of us Z enthusiasts here in the USA.
  7. Yea, same here! I could see the Karrmann ghia design in the rear end and Bug top on a 356 nose, but got nothing even close with any of those keywords. This was a tough one. Time for an easy one. Maybe a 69 Mustang coupe! 😆
  8. It really depends on the issues. If you have very heavy orange peel you may need a 500 grit sanding stick. If you are just knocking down a few spots the 3000 in a sanding stick is a good place to start. As one of the other members mentioned metalics and metal flakes are a different kettle of fish because of the way the metal flake settles when it goes down and drys. By sanding it, you can easily get an uneven finish. My preference is to start metal flake with several very thin almost dry coats. This gives you a consistent substrate. Then follow with a coat heavy enough that is just
  9. I wrote an article on painting for the Tamiya website many years ago, unfortunately it is no longer there. Here is my brief explanation that may help you. Clear hides nothing. Clear can give you a perfectly smooth and polished surface, but the light passes through it like glass on a mirror. If you put sandpaper under glass, you still see the sandpaper. The glass doesn't make it glossy. You need a smooth surface under the clear to get a good reflective surface. Consider this. If you had a piece of fuzz in the surface of your color coat, would you expect clear paint to make it go away?
  10. Same here! Strange modification. Looks very much like a lot of styling cues taken from a lot of similar cars. When all is said and done, I am pretty sure I know what the chassis is.
  11. Tim, a year ago I said I had run out of expletives. This is just piling on!
  12. If you get a good mill or drill press then you can use the circuit board carbide drills. They are super sharp but are quite brittle. You have a high risk of snapping them with a hand held pin vice. They don't take flexing well so you need the control of a mill or drill press.
  13. If you need something other than a "Hobby" grade, you should be able to find it here. https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits Been buying my drill bits here for quite a while. They are not the cheap stuff you get in a tin pack, but then I am using them for some precision drilling in brass and aluminum.
  14. Personally, over the years, I have developed a hate for cheap tools. I have been let down by them far too many times. First time was the cheap cast aluminum screwdriver and wrench that came with my Yamaha in the 60's. Stranded on the side of the road(pre cell phone days 😁) with bent tools and unable to fix a simple problem. In my thirties I decided that enough is enough. Spend the money and get the good ones. Which is cheaper? A good tool that lasts you a lifetime or a cheap one you keep buying over and over each time it lets you down! Not to mention the frustration of dealing with the
  15. What you are describing is familiar to anyone who has used a lathe. It is called chatter and it is cause by the cutting tool flexing and rebounding. On that basis I would say that this is not the tool for you. By the way, the best way to remedy the problem you describe is to change the angle of the blade from perpendicular to the seam. One pass perpendicular, one angled left and then one angled right. You do that because chatter becomes more pronounced with each pass.
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