Pete J.

Ah! Now that makes sense.

Ok, this may sound a little silly, but why are you using tubing? Just because the 1:1 has bent tubing to make something doesn't mean that you have to use tubing on your model. I have had much better luck bending aluminum rod. You don't get any deformation to speak of and if you take your time it is less likely to crack. By the way, this principle applies to other things like fuel and pneumatic lines. Wire works just fine for these and nobody will say anything about it not being hollow.

DON'T, I REPEAT DON'T use WD40 on any model ever!! I guarantee that you will never get a good paint job back on that model. In fact I have ban the use of it any where in my shop period. The stuff causes fisheyes so bad and I have had unimaginable problems getting rid of them once they appear.

Hey Paul - I see the 935 in the photo. You ever going to finish that beast??

John - That may be one way to do it but I use a variation on it. I start with Bare Metal Foil. I burnish it down well and then put a thick coat of white glue over it. After the glue has dried completely, I put a real large lump of two part body putty over that. Once every thing has cured, I pull it all off the model. The BMF will generally give up pretty easily. You might want to put a handle of some sort in the putty to assist with lifting it. I then fill the back side of the BMF with gap filling super glue. Let that set. Then with a sanding stick gentling sand the superglue until you get rid of the BMF back to the point that you see the outline of your script. Then soak the whole thing in warm water to dissolve the white glue and you will be left with the superglue and BMF script. Hope this helps.

For several years F1 cars had what amounted to wheel covers. They were mounted on bearings and bottom weighted to hold their position. They all had some kind of air intake or exhaust to help cool the brakes. Since band by the FIA.

Harry - It is a presentation car, so by your definition it is real. It is made of real Ferrari parts and it looks like the real deal but as a presentation car only Ferrari knows if it is a operational 2008 race car. I have seen a number of Fomula 1 unvailings and they almost never fire the car up or drive it on or off the stage so we will never know its status. So for future posting presentation=real. Your game, your rules.

Harry for this one I have to ask the definition of a model. I suspect that this is a display version of the car. They are not operational race cars and are taken to events for display only. They do not have 90% of the stuff that would make the car work so in a sense they are 1:1 models. Often they are windtunnel models. So, my question. If that were true, would that be a model or real for this forum? Pete

Hey Gang - Next Saturday in The San Diego Model Expo Hosted by IPMS San Diego and the San Diego Model Car Club. It is being held at the San Diego Air & Space Museum Annex at Gillespie Field in El Cajon. We has a dual theme for this event - 100 years of Indianapolis 500 and 100 years of Naval Aviation. Should be fun with lots of great raffle prizes and some great vendors. Tamiya America has a vendor table and will be showing some of their current products. They are also sponsoring a Best Tamiya award. Here is the web site for more information and I hope to see many of you there. http://www.ipmssd.org/images/Expo11_forms/2011_Swap_Meet.htm

If this is what you are looking for then they are Halibrand wheels and come on 427 cobras and Mk II GT 40s among other race cars. I didn't have any luck finding them with a quick search, but there have to be sets out there. They have been on a ton of models. Good luck

So is this offically a "MA duce"?

Very nice build! Lots of good imagination and update of parts. One very large thing hits me about this though and it bothers me about a lot of these new retro cars. I think that you missed the point of the original Boss Mustangs. They were homolgation specials for Can Am and Trans Am racing. I have seen a lot of the original Boss Mustangs and lusted after them when they were new. These cars were strippers! If it didn't make the car go faster or handle better it went away. The originals had rubber floor mats, no upholstery on the doors, basic racing seats and sure as heck, no cup holders. Music systems were deleted and there was a back seat delete option. The instruments were large and legible. No trim rings on the rims. At any rate, your model is very nice and follows the current trend in retro cars. I just wish someone would do the darn things in manner that lived up to the intent of the originals. In other words, something that you can slap a roll cage in and go racing. Probably would not sell well, but then neither did the originals which is why there are not a whole lot of them left. Ok, grandpa is done and will come in off the front porch and stop yelling at the kids on the front lawn! Keep building em like you like them.

As an old curmudgeon, I was going to say something like "Why would you do that!" and then I remembered that I made one into a pickup and realized that it is just your imagination running down the street yelling " I can do anything I want!" Great show of thinking out side of the box! Not my taste but then not my model. Have fun with it.

Hmmmmm, never thought of that but you got the wheels turning! Thanks.

I use a little different method. I make individual stands from foam core and glue them up with hot glue. The parts are stuck to the stand with blue tack. The part generally stays on the stand throughout the build. That protects it from my own clumsiness and bench scratches.

I use a little different technique. I have a spray bottle of distilled water(very cheap at the grocery store in the bottled water aisle). I use micromesh pads and a light spray of the water. I put a towel in my lap and have at it. Frequent spritz of water clears the residue. I can do this at my bench and don't have any contamination problems.

.... or you could delete the spare all together as a weight saver and run the car run flat tires like the most current BMWs. On a car of this weight, the spare tire delete would give a measurable improvement in performance.

There are several ways to do weld seams with putty. The technique I use is to lay down two pieces of tape that out line the seam, one on each side. I then use either Euro soft two part body filler or the gray Tamiya putty, thinned with a little extra thin glue. I fill the area between the tape. I then take a toothpick and cut it on the bias so I have an elliptical end and make a series of impressions in the wet putty to get the look I want. You don't have a lot of time to make the impressions but a little roughness is good as non machine welds are not symmetric. Here is one of the welds that has been oversprayed with Alclad.

Oh there are plenty of F1, sports cars, WRC lovers around this forum! We just don't make a lot of noise, but do enjoy a great build. Keep them coming.

...mmmmmm looks like the results from 2009.

You asked where to by this stuff. I would suggest you look at this web site. http://www.coastairbrush.com/ They have everything you can imagine in airbrush stuff along with tips, tutorial, and just general information. They are the largest airbrush supplier in the USA and have a great shop to stop by if you can. If you are in SoCal, they are about 10 minutes from Disneyland. If it is airbrush stuff and they don't have it, you don't need it. Seriously, they really are the best. You might give them a call and see what they suggest. Their opinion will be based on something other than "I have a xxxx and it is great". No offense intended to any one here, but these guys have a really broad base of experience with all thing airbrush just not a single product.

Radio shack us just chock full of modeling parts. Diodes and resistors make great fuel line filters, every gage and color of wire you can think of to simulate hoses of all kinds, little screws and bolts for every thing. Just keep an open mind and think how something will look painted a different color.

Cool! Can't wait to see it. These little 7's are one of my favorite Tamiya kits and at the price, even I can afford a bunch of them. Pete

Mark - I was considering the drive shaft issue from the other night. How about if you just widened the rear part of the body by about 1/4" to accommodate the bigger seats and a drive shaft cover?

Please don't take this wrong. You have done an excellent build! You really picking up the details. I am glad you put it up. I was thinking of picking up one, but I have to say, Revell just didn't seem to capture the shape of the body. I have seen a couple of these models on other web sights and just couldn't put my finger on what was wrong but Revell seems missed several important details like the crease that runs across the top of the fenders. I also think the body is too narrow and too rounded. Hmmmmmm. Here are a couple of photos I took a couple of weeks ago at C&C Irvine. Any one else see any thing??