Straightliner59

Francis and Scott, thanks for your kind words. They are very much appreciated! I'm pretty happy with the Gilmer drive. It looks very much to scale. I used an 80 TPI knurl. I think 60 or 70 would be okay, but this scales out to (I think) 3/8", which isn't too far off the cogs that are left on the one hanging on my shop wall!?

Mallory Supermag 3. I used the cap from a casting that I can't recall where it came from, and turned the body from aluminum knitting needle. The shaft is 1/32" brass tube and the "stop ring" is 1/16" aluminum tube. The retainer cap is a disc punched from an old long-distance phone card. I just realized that, as much as like the breathers, I can't use them. The engine needs puke hoses and tank, instead. Duh! Thanks for looking!

Tom West was the driving force behind Milestone. Same guy that helped bring us Aurora Racing Scenes, and thousands of photographs, and, all those wonderful X-Ray drawings! Tom was a super-nice guy! He helped me out with information countless times.

With a bit of work, something very similar could be scratched, then molded and cast. I would give it a try!

After some more experimentation, I think I have my blower belt material. I used the heavier knurled rod, rolled over wine bottle foil. It's my favorite material for making seat belts, because it's easy to work. It looks like it'll work, here, as well! I guess I'll be making new blower drive pulleys, too. I painted this piece of belt with Tamiya Tire Black spray. I think a charcoal grey would be best, because then, a wash of flat black will really make the cogs pop. What do you guys think?

Oh, boy! That'll be fun!?

Thanks, my friend! I got the breathers pinned into place. Then, I decided it was time to play with my toy, and set it together.? I knurled a 1" diameter aluminum rod, to see if that would give better results creating the drive cogs on the blower belt. Simply rolling it over the strip doesn't create quite enough relief to make them readily visible. I will have to make some sort of tool to apply mechanical pressure, with a knurl on one side and a smooth roller, on the other. I am fairly confident that this is the right path.

I do. Like Noel said, below, I had to make a die. I used a 1/4" chisel for the punch. The thread contains most of the process, including the very beginnings of the experiment. Here's a link to the thread:

Very nice, Jim! I love this kind of modeling--using a kit that most others don't even consider, then making it not only presentable, but downright cool! Excellent work, sir.

If you use a minivan, you could make it "Cash Cab"!?

Bob, you got me thinking about just how to go about this. I was turning a crank pulley, because I wanted to see how my knurls would look for the drive cogs. Looking at the knurls on the aluminum stock, I got the idea to roll the knurled stock down a .125" strip of styrene. I'll need to come up with a way to apply even, and greater pressure to the strip, but, I think this shows promise! Thank you, sir! I made spark plug tubes from 1/16" aluminum tube. I decided on these valve covers. They'll get a little work. I also replaced the fuel tank supports. I think that only leaves one thing, a mounting pin, to solder to the chassis before that's all done--I think.?Thanks for looking!

Thanks, Bob. I will likely use some sort of tape, and make the Gilmer drive cogs from strip styrene. I did a fuel motor years ago, and did that with masking tape. It worked out, pretty well, and is still together! I'll use smaller stock, this time around! ?

Thanks, Marcos! I noticed that the cogs on the crank pulley were very tall. I was able to gain the needed space by simply sanding them down. That worked out, well, considering I was struggling to get a new one cast.

I knew you'd get it just right! Simply gorgeous work, my friend!

I got some more work done to the engine. I made a fuel pump, and tacky-glued the idler pulley bracket on. I'm going to have to swap the crank pulley--need a little less overdrive on the blower!? I'm as yet undecided as to the valve covers. I have a couple of options--or, I could try my hand at milling a pair. I recently bought some aluminum stock, just in case. It's coming along! Comments are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for looking!

Super-nice work, Kurt! It looks great!

It can be used on any. It's especially helpful with a hand saw, though. It also works well on drill bits! Very handy stuff!

A moratorium? Or, two weeks between edits? I'm just curious, and not sure I understand why.

Beeswax on the saw blade makes cutting easier, as well. It lubricates as it cuts.

It's a thought, but, if I already have something that will work, it's time I could save for other pursuits. ? I'm not 100% sure I have exactly what I'll need, so, it could happen...

I tried to update the title of my Nostalgia Fuel Dragster thread, and the option to edit it doesn't come up. Am I missing something? Thanks!

Thanks again, Joe! I'm happy that you appreciate this stuff! I feel like I actually accomplished something with the mill, today! Here's the blower pressure relief plate/panel. The springs are some I found in a drawer of miscellaneous metal bits. I'll likely use model RR NBW castings for the spring retainers. It's not perfect, but, it's the smallest, most detailed piece I've made, yet, with the mill. I'm pretty happy with the way this is coming along. Although it's a Hemi-powered FED, the fact that the engine's a late(r)-model Donovan, and will be equipped with the Shotgun injector, will make it unique. As always, questions, critiques and comments are always welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for looking!

I've done some more work to the manifold. I added the rear intake runners, made it taller, and added the boss for the pressure relief valve. I found some springs for the cover plate, which I am in the process of milling. I'm pretty excited, working on it! Thanks for looking!

Thank you, Joe!

Yeah, I haven't been able to figure out how they managed that! Impressive! ?