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StevenGuthmiller

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About StevenGuthmiller

  • Birthday 11/27/1962

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25th-1/24th

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    http://stevenguthmiller@yahoo.com

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  • Full Name
    Steven Wade Guthmiller

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MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Just for the color. I use primer and clear right from the can. Steve
  2. If I would have known, I could have sent you several sets. My wife ordered a bunch online to give to co-workers for both of us, but the forecast here is rain all day. Lot of good they'll do us. Steve
  3. Use what you have. You can drive yourself nuts with minutia, but it's not rocket science. If you have Testors acrylic, thin it with water and use that. Steve
  4. Also looks like a pretty rough casting. Lot of pinholes, dimples, etc, along with a warped hood. Steve
  5. Just for future reference, you can install those magnets before paint, fill them with a little putty, sand and paint. That way, they'll still do their job, but they'll be almost entirely invisible. I use these magnets for creating removable hood hinges, installing them in the body and hinges prior to painting, and adding metal strips to the hood. You can see in these photos where the magnets have been circled in blue, and then the finished pieces and model. Steve
  6. Yes, absolutely! Stay away from any solvents that may damage the chrome. Remember, you're only creating a simple "wash". There's absolutely no need to over think it and go out and buy a bunch of unnecessary products, or to nerd out over the thinning question. Thin aqueous acrylics with water, and enamels with mineral spirits, and you'll do just fine. Steve
  7. You know, I've knocked over far more paint bottles, thinner jars, wine glasses, beer bottles, milk jugs, gas cans, etc, etc, etc, than I've ever spilled glue bottles. If I spent all of my time trying to devise "spill proof" solutions for everything that I've ever dumped at one time or another, that's all that I'd be doing. Not quite sure why we have to always go through such contortions for solutions for every simple little problem. Must be something in our modeling DNA, but it sure begins to look like a whole lot of silliness after a while. Steve
  8. That’s the one that I use almost exclusively. Steve
  9. You can use basically anything. This is Testors flat black enamel thinned with mineral spirits. Steve
  10. Thanks guys! Just finishing up the basic layout for a removable air cleaner, as I've done with my most recent projects. Still some refinements to do, and of course some more details need to be added to the intake manifold, but it's beginning to take shape. Still trying to determine if there's an option for an air filter element, or if I'll just go without. I'll have to see if I can dream something up. Steve
  11. Part of it is just the "good old boy" mentality, which I was somewhat aware of from my last visit there some years ago. But the biggest problem was the fact that it was quite obvious that some of the judging was done on pure emotion rather than the overall quality, or complexity of the models. By that I mean that as is the standard practice in any contest, judging is done using a number of factors to determine which models are "the best", whether that be per category, or overall. It appeared to me that the judging (in some cases), was essentially done on a single appearance feature rather than the technical ingenuity required to complete the model to the highest overall quality possible. I never enter a contest with the expectation of winning any awards, but I do expect that the judges will be professional in their approach to picking "The Best" models to receive whatever awards are being given. I get the feeling that the judges in this circumstance were either not aware of what was required to build each model, or were just not very good at judging in general. Forgive me, but I don't think that they really knew what they were looking at. At least I like to think that that was the case. Otherwise, there were more nefarious reasons for some of their decisions. Another turn off came at the end of the show as I was packing up to leave when I heard one of the area club leaders/judges discussing gleefully with a patron about how they "recycled" their awards from year to year, by collecting medals and trophies won by, I assume club members, and reissuing them again at the following year's show. I suppose that you could call that being frugal, but I found the practice of recycling awards to be quite tacky. And, if they were able to collect and recycle awards among club members from year to year, that speaks to the "good old boy" issue that I opened with. Anyway, the whole situation just seemed a bit "seedy" in my estimation. I believe that in the future, I'll just stick with the shows where I know that the organizers, and when applicable, the judges, have the utmost integrity, which is the rule rather than the exception. Steve
  12. Thanks so much fellas! It's your encouragement that keeps me going! Thanks to the generosity of Gerry Paquette, (Exotics_Builder) the conversion of the 4 bbl intake that he was so courteous to send to me, is taking shape as a 2 bbl intake. I'll likely be doing a bit more detail work on it, but it appears that it will do the trick very nicely! Thanks again Gerry! The generosity of many of the members here never ceases to amaze me! Steve
  13. Thanks to the generosity of Gerry Paquette, (Exotics_Builder) the conversion of the 4 bbl intake that he was so courtesy to send to me, is taking shape as a 2 bbl intake. I'll likely be doing a bot more detail work on it, but it appears that it will do the trick very nicely! Thanks again Gerry! The generosity of many of the members here never ceases to amaze me! Steve
  14. Looking at the one on the left tells me that there's really nothing wrong with the primer. That's exactly how it should look. Duplicolor white is a bit on the transparent side, so it's good to use several light coats versus one heavy one, and doing so is advantageous for plastic protection anyway. It's actually difficult to obscure detail with all of the Duplicolor primers, regardless of how much you use. I routinely use as many as 5 coats, and I never have issues with detail hide, even after covering it with 4 or 5 coats of lacquer color, and another 5 coats of Duplicolor clear lacquer. I know that most people would consider as many as 15 coats of primer, color and clear overkill, and would conclude that that process would cover all of the fine detail, but with the right materials, it's absolutely not the case. There is a method to my madness, and to date it has served me extremely well. Multiple primer coats serves to ensure total protection against hot solvents in subsequent coats of paint, and while it's very possible that this many coats might not be required in every case, It's my view that it's better to be safe than sorry, and short of the extra time required to apply that many coats, I have never been able to find any down side, and using this procedure has assured me that I will never have any solvent issues down the line. Multiple color coats of course ensures uniformity and color depth, which is the reasoning for 4-5 coats of color. Multiple coats of clear adds depth to the clear, which ensures that there is sufficient material to prevent burn through during the polishing process, which is always a part of my paint process, regardless of how shiny the clear ends up straight out of the can or airbrush. I feel that polishing creates a more realistic finish than "spray and walk away". In any case, as an example, this '64 GP has the aforementioned 5 coats of primer, 4 to 5 coats of color, and 5 coats of clear, followed by polishing, and even with extremely fine scripts, such as the "GRAND PRIX" scripts and badges on the lower front quarter panel, there has been no discernible detail hide at all. Steve
  15. And of course, there’s always the possibility that you just got unlucky enough to get a bad can. It happens. Even with the best products. Steve
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