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StevenGuthmiller

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Posts posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. 21 minutes ago, Plowboy said:

    Thanx Steve! It is nose high in the photo. But, it's because the body isn't nestled down onto the frame like it should be. You can see the big gap between the inner fenderwells and frame in front of the tire. 

    I assumed something like that was likely the case.

    I know how these mock-ups can be deceiving. ;)

     

     

     

    Steve

  2. I use flat paints all of the time when painting engines. (Usually Testors enamels) 

    There are some nice benefits to using flat paints followed by clear.

    First, flat paint will dry smoother as a rule, (no orange peel)

    Second, I can control the degree of gloss depending on the number of coats I add after. 
    Finally, I can do all of my detail painting on the engine prior to the clear coat.

    This will protect those parts, as well as the engine paint from rubbing off during handling during assembly.

    I will usually use a coat or two of Testors clear lacquer over the flat enamel to add gloss and protect the paint.

     

     

     

     

     

    Steve

  3. Here's my latest distraction. ^_^

    It was obvious to me that the extremely faint wiring on the Revell Charger firewall was going to be extremely difficult, if not entirely impossible to detail once the firewall was covered in a couple of coats of primer and paint.

    So I began some experimenting with creating a wiring harness from very thin copper wire.

    Once I got it to the configuration I needed, I coated the twisted portions of the wire with 5 minute epoxy to hold everything in place.

    Once cured, I can begin painting the wires and get them routed for installation.

     

    image.jpeg.961c2d15844acecc01d9297dca7bb412.jpeg

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Steve

  4. 22 hours ago, gtx6970 said:

    If I can make a suggestion. Add stryene strips to the edges of the roof  along the roof drain gutters. If you are doing a vinyl top the original trim on the kits is / gets far to shallow compared to the added trim at the base of the C pillar area

    I think I'm good.

    I always try to sand the C-pillar trim down to about the same thickness as the drip rail trim.

     

     

     

     

     

    Steve

  5. Thanks guys!

     

    I think I've finished up the vinyl top work.

    Installed the chrome strips on the C-pillars and the roof seams using 0.01 x 0.03 evergreen strip.

    This time I decided to fill the roof side of the seam strips to make them look a little more correct.

     

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    Steve

  6. 16 minutes ago, Khils said:

    And "that" will be Beautiful!!!!!     I figured that out when you mention what arrived today.

    Thanks Kevin.

    It will finally give me the opportunity to fully show off one of my rebuilt interiors. ;)

     

    By the way, the Plymouth "Chestnut" will most likely be used on an old Johan "flat box" '64 Fury I would like to get going on at some point. :P

     

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    Steve

  7. 2 hours ago, my66s55 said:

    What are you using the 1957 Sierra Gold on exactly Steve? As I remember from my youth, it was used with a particular off white. 

    I’ve always wanted to do a ‘57 Chevy in this color, so I’m saving it for a future Revell ‘57 Chevy convertible build. I figure at some point I’m going to want a break from these time consuming vintage revamping projects that I’ve been doing a lot of lately. A simple modern kit build might be refreshing at some point. But I’m already planning on my next project being a complete rework of an AMT ‘64 Bonneville convertible. That’s what the Pontiac Turquoise is for. 😊

     

     

     

    Steve

  8. 43 minutes ago, FLHCAHZ said:

    Looks great.  Did u do that with a knife, or sand or from underneath?  Your skills are amazing!

    Yes, I ground out what I could from the backside with a Dremel tool and then finished with some scraping with a flat X-acto blade, sand paper and sanding sticks.

     

     

    Steve

  9. This short video shows how quickly your model can go from being displayed with the hood closed, and then open, and back to closed again with the addition of mini magnets.

    Actually I'm just kind of enjoying making videos! :P

     

     

     

     

     

    Steve

     

  10. 2 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

    I'm living vicariously through your skills 😉.

    That's an impressive player -- and now a cartridge ! 

    To simplify the cartridge's appearance , you could just paint a 'blank' label on it , as though it's a blank with home recording content .

    I have a line on getting a few cartridge labels printed. :D

     

     

     

     

    Steve

  11. 4 hours ago, TooOld said:

    When I read the post earlier about an 8-Track tape player I somehow knew you'd be making one ! :D

    Call it a weakness of mine.

    It seems like any time someone makes a suggestion like this, pictures begin flashing through my head of possible ways to accomplish the task, and suddenly, like a scratch that needs itching, I find myself sitting at the bench working it out.

    It's really a happy affliction, but it does have a tendency to distract me from the work that I should be concentrating on.

     

    Oh well.

    It didn't take too long.

    Here is the finished player.

     

    Making a couple of tapes to throw on the seat should be pretty easy........that is if I knew someone who could make some cool 8-track decals for them. :D;)

     

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    Steve

  12. Well, not to be the type that shies away from a challenge, I thought how hard could it be to make an under dash 8-track player.

    Then it occurred to me that it might be fun, so away we go. :P

     

    image.jpeg.d94fcc89fe81bb9d4966c4a4c32254de.jpegimage.jpeg.464623631030f44abde87bd890171ee2.jpegimage.jpeg.557f944ce909f6047e53de01acf9bbd5.jpeg

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    image.jpeg.c466c1e4f0e8aad5085d5ee5b5135f11.jpeg

     

     

     

     

    Steve

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