StevenGuthmiller
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Posts posted by StevenGuthmiller
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3 hours ago, bobss396 said:
Anything that needs strength I will pin it in place. I drill holes while things are in the raw plastic state, pin one side with brass rod, aluminum tubing or stainless steel pins (1/32").
There is that.
Most small exterior parts, (ie, door handles, mirrors, antennas, etc, and sometimes interior parts such as window cranks) get pinned.......although I don't deal much with metal for this, or any other purpose.
I use primarily thin plastic rod, or stretched sprue for this purpose.
But in any event, it not only helps in the strength department, but it makes the parts much easier to locate and glue into place, eliminating any problems with parts sliding around and smearing glue all over the place.
Takes a little more time and forethought, but it makes for a cleaner model in the end.
Steve
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19 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:
I rarely mask attachment points anymore. I either scrape the paint off and use Tamiya thin if it’s a structural joint, or use epoxy or CA over the paint.
I agree.
Since I’ve begun using the glues that I use, joint strength has never been a problem.
As a matter of fact, my models generally get handled quite a bit initially, and often get dragged 300 miles or so, one way, multiple times during a season to a number of shows, and in all honesty, over the past ten years or so since I’ve begun going to shows, I’ve never once had a part fall off in transit.
Apparently the paint and glue bond is pretty good to be able to withstand 600 miles of bouncing around on bad Minnesota roads, and that’s just one trip of several.
Sometimes I think glue joint strength gets a little over emphasized.
We build static models that aren’t supposed to get a lot of rough handling anyway, so how strong does it need to be?
Steve
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I don’t scrape anything.
Haven’t for probably 40 years.
I use MEK glue for bare plastic prior to paint, and 2-part epoxy for virtually all assembly processes, and have no issues.
Steve
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All that I can talk you is that I thinned a custom mix of MCW enamels to do the interior in my ‘64 Bonneville with plain old lacquer thinner, and it worked just fine.
I had a little left over, but I haven’t checked to see what kind of shape it’s in now.
Enamels can be really quirky once thinned, and will some times gel up depending on the thinning medium.
Steve
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Good grief!
This is exactly what we need.
More confusion on this subject!
Everyone has their own definitions of what this is, and what that is, and then we get the official versions from the paint wonks and industry experts with all of the technical, chemical mumbo-jumbo. and our eyes begin to glaze over!
For our purposes, at least for mine, it's pretty simple.
If it says "Enamel" on the can or bottle, it's going to dry slow, go on thicker, dry harder, dry shinier, and can only be over coated with enamel or acrylic as a rule.
If it says "Lacquer", it dries extremely fast, is able to be built up in multiple layers, in most cases will dry duller, but will be able to be sprayed over with virtually any other type of paint.
Acrylic seems to be the sticking point because everyone in the business apparently likes that word, and uses it freely on pretty much everything.
If you're using acrylic, you're just going to have to get down in the gutter with the paint wonks if you want to know exactly what properties each acrylic has, because it can be almost anything.
Steve
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On 4/19/2024 at 6:46 PM, rattle can man said:
Has anyone tried applying the powder to the paint while it is still tacky?
That is absolutely an option.
There are any number of "adhesives" that can be used for embossing powder.
Anything that it will stick to with even coverage is fair game.
Steve
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If I could make one suggestion Anders?
A wash of some sort on the wire wheels would add another level of realism.
Steve
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Absolutely gorgeous!
Beautiful example of the “first” American muscle car!
Steve
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Pretty sure that you can find the Boetje's in most grocery stores.
If I can find it in Fargo North Dakota, you can find it anywhere!
I like it because it's a little "sweeter" than a lot of mustards.
By that I mean the vinegar level seems to be lower so that the mustard flavor seems more pronounced.
It's also got a lot of heat, so you have to go light.....unless you need to really clean out the sinuses!
Steve
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On 4/15/2024 at 7:25 AM, ncbuckeye67 said:
You could always make a windshield out of a clear plastic bottle or acetate.
Yup.
Not hard to make a windshield for a Mopar '68-'70 B-body.
Back glass is a little tougher, but also possible if you're patient.
Steve
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12 hours ago, JollySipper said:
For a late snack........ some pastrami and swiss on honey wheat bread with Sun Chips, which are really good and good FOR you.......
Did you forget the Boetje's mustard?
I love this stuff!!!
Steve
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1 hour ago, Can-Con said:
I can see a mod such as that in the interest of driveability. I'm not keen on having to let the T/A warm up in the morning before I take it on the road ,, and the carb was set up by one of the best, if not THE BEST Quadrajet guys in the province.
What could never understand though was swapping out dashes.
I remember several cars in Custom Rodder and Hot Rod Magazine among others back in the '80s where the owner swapped out S-10 dashes and the like. One I particularly remember was a '57 Chevy hardtop with said S-10 dash. If I had an old car from the '50s or '60s I'd want to be looking out over the original dash, not something out of a bland newer vehicle.😉
One thing that I’ve always hated was the propensity for many people to replace original interiors with generic looking tan leather throughout.
In my opinion, one of the most endearing and coolest aspects of most old cars is the character of the interior treatments.
Replacing a vibrant ‘55 Chevy interior with it’s wide variety of colors, textures and materials with a drab, monochrome, tan leather interior is a sin as far as I’m concerned.
For as much time as most guys spend in the driver’s seat of their classic car, it can’t possibly be that detrimental to their delicate behinds to have to sit on vinyl for a little while.
As far as having to let my Grand Prix warm up for a little while, I’m fine with it.
I’m in no hurry whatsoever when I’m taking it out for a drive.
Steve
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50 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:
What if want to repaint her with an enamel, can I I lay down the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Then paint her with enamel?
As long as you’re not concerned about detail hide, there’s no reason that you can’t spray over it, especially with enamel.
But yes, I would re-prime just for the sake of even color coverage.
Steve
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3 hours ago, JerseeJerry55 said:
Hello all hope everyone is well. I have a question about repainting a model. I have an AMT IH CO4070A cab that I painted in Testors Extreme Lacquer DeJaBlue. Came out okay but have a change of heart about the color as I think the metallic is not what I am looking for. Can I reprime it over the current paint job with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and then reshoot a new, more appropriate shade maybe like a Tamiya Red lacquer or (perhaps enamel)? Ant help is appreciated. Thank you.
Kind regards,
Jerseejerry55
Did you prime it before paint? And if so, what primer did you use?
Steve
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14 hours ago, Mothersworry said:
Fuel injection is all good and well...progress I suppose, nuthin wrong with that. But I fondly remember the sound that my '70 Super Bee would make when the front and rear carbs would kick in...divine music.
I agree.
Let old cars be old cars, and new be new.
I've said it before, but in my opinion, a large part of the charm and nostalgia of an old car is the way that they run, handle, and ride.
Everybody today seems to want their classic car to react exactly like their 2024 Ford Explorer.
I don't understand it myself.
I love the sound and feel of my '69 GP!
To start modernizing it is to completely obliterate it's allure.
Steve
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9 minutes ago, JollySipper said:
Steve, man, not to sound like a fanboy, but with your attention to detail and eye for weathering, I believe you could knock an aircraft build outta the park!
Not really my bag. 😁
Steve
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4 hours ago, Rodent said:
But it would be in Modeler's Hades. You could have all the MPC 67 GTOs you wanted, but there would be no Revell '66 GTOs to rob parts from.
Or, you could say that my model builders hades would be nothing but models of cars produced after about 1977, or all foreign cars! 😮
I’d rather build airplanes. 😁
Steve
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6 hours ago, ncbuckeye67 said:
I was referring to the shallow interior detail, and crappy promo type chassis (like the 67 GTO)
I understand, but that's not much of a consideration for me anymore.
I wasn't much of a fan of these types of interiors and chassis in years past, and I still can't say that I am, but the most important thing to me now is subject matter, so if there are aspects of the model that I don't like, I'll change them.
It not only corrects the issues, but it insures that your model will be something completely unique.
My last 1964 Pontiac Bonneville project, although an AMT kit and not an MPC, illustrates this concept.
These old annual kits were all lacking in basically the same areas, but I've begun to understand that it's not only possible to overcome these problems, but it can be a lot of fun as well.
Researching and finding existing modern kit parts to substitute, modifying existing parts, and scratch building others, is a great way to hone your building skills, and if you have an open mind and some determination, you can make something from one of these old sub-par kits that rivals any highly detailed modern kit without spending gobs of money on aftermarket stuff.
I'm having way more fun doing these kinds of builds now than I ever did building basically out of box, and as I said, when it's finally finished, it's truly unique, even though still a factory stock model.
This is model car heaven for me!
Steve
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My dad had one, but I don’t remember much about it, except that it was maroon.
He bought it after giving me his turquoise 1975 Honda CB 360, which I will confess that I felt was kind of a wimpy little toy at the time, but realize today that it was a really fun and great little machine.
I wish I still had it.
Sold it to a family friend in 1985 for $350.00 when I bought my first brand new bike.
an ‘85 Yamaha Virago 1000.
Steve
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I think I actually lived one of my worst nightmares at the last show that I attended.
The show was held in a vacant store in an old half empty strip mall.
In the hallway, right outside of the store was a large jungle Jim style playground where there was a single woman with several small, extremely loud and obnoxious children playing.As the afternoon progressed, I happened to be just hanging out in the hallway, stretching my legs when this woman decided that it would be a good Idea to keep these little monsters occupied by taking them into the little toy car and airplane show to run around like a bunch of tiny lunatics!
With 3 models representing probably 3 years of toil sitting on the tables, I quickly started feeling a tightness in my chest!
I had never thought of myself as a child hater, but that day I was seriously contemplating where would be a good place to dispose of the bodies!!
Luckily, by some miracle, no damage was done.
Steve
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2 hours ago, ncbuckeye67 said:
Only 40 year old MPC kits are available
Sounds like heaven to me! 😉
Steve
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This is the exact recipe that I use for my red sauce.
The only addition is fresh chopped basil.
I usually omit the sausage, but my meatball recipe includes ground beef, ground pork and ground Italian sausage.
Everyone loves Clemenza's sauce!
Steve
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1 minute ago, 1959scudetto said:
Fishing for compliments, Steven ?
Absolutely not!
Just wanted to put it out there because only the photos still exist now.
The model itself has been stripped and prepped for a re-do.
Steve
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Thanks people!
43 minutes ago, Watertown said:What's with all of the self deprecation?! This is a beautiful build/example of a bygone kit. I'd be proud to have it in my display case any day! Nice work, sir!
37 minutes ago, stavanzer said:My thoughts exactly, Mike. Steve's Photo and building skills were excellent then. No reason for the putting himself down.
I appreciate that fellas!
I suppose it's just my way of saying that if I were to do it over, I would do a much better job.
You may be interested to know that this particular model has been disassembled and stripped in preparation for a probable upcoming rebuild.
I've always wanted to do one of these oddball Mopars in a full detail configuration, and this is the prime candidate for an all out Dodge Dart D-500 build project.
Hopefully I'll get on it soon.
Steve
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Looking For A Special Glue
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Generally yes.
The particular epoxy that I use can sit for at least 5 minutes before it begins to tack up.
Depending on the particular assembly that needs to be performed, I’ll either apply the glue and then immediately mate the parts if it’s a pretty secure connection, followed by a check after about 10 minutes to be certain that the positioning is correct, or else I’ll mix the glue, apply it to one of the surfaces to be mated, and then let it sit for 5 minutes or so, after which I’ll check for tackiness.
If the glue is sufficiently tacky to hold the part securely in position without sliding around, then I’ll assemble the parts, and again, return probably ten minutes later to verify that it’s still in position.
I’ll usually continue to make periodic positioning checks until the remaining glue on the mixing card is completely hardened, which probably takes about 15 or 20 minutes.
Steve