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About Mark

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build

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    Amherst (Buffalo), NY
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    Mark Budniewski

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  1. The easiest/best way to go would be to start with the MPC Squad Rod Nova, and if you need a '76 grille then get that from the AMT kit. The MPC Nova body is more accurate and it also has a stock chassis and interior.
  2. Check eBay, there are several sellers offering 3D printed turbos (and/or castings based on same).
  3. The majority of those sellers who "don't know about" model cars sure sell a lot of them when you check their past sales. If anything, they should pick up at least some basic knowledge through sheer repetition. When I see the disclaimer "I haven't checked this, so I don't know if it is complete", ninety-nine times out of a hundred I can give their pictures a cursory examination and find something missing that would be obvious to most people. Sometimes they can position everything just right for the pictures so as to hide it, but if you look closely enough you can find it.
  4. Monogram kit from (I think) early Eighties. Not snap together, does have engine detail, plated parts, and clear parts. Revell didn't have a late Sixties Nova in 1/32 scale, but I believe they did have a mid-Seventies snap together Nova kit.
  5. Someone from Round 2 has stated publicly that they did not get the farm tractor kit tooling in their deal with Tomy for acquisition of the AMT/MPC/Ertl plastic kit tools.
  6. My boss ordered a new Impala just prior to Covid. A couple of weeks later, the assembly plant shut down. When it reopened, the car got built but was one of about 50 cars totalled in a train derailment in transit. By then, the model year had ended, so he ended up getting a year-newer car for the same price as agreed to initially.
  7. Some sellers absolutely do NOT answer any questions, particularly if they think the potential bidder is on to their scam. Their rationale is that you might get anxious about losing a chance at the item, and will bid anyway in spite of not having the information that you sought. By not answering the question, they can't get caught in a lie.
  8. Only that coupe had the dip, all other models had smooth trunk lids. MPC's convertible kit was essentially a hardtop without a roof, its trunk lid had the dip and the upper quarter panels (different on 1:1 convertibles) were the same as the coupe. AMT's convertible promo had the smooth trunk lid, but still had the coupe quarter panels.
  9. Your first mistake! Ever try the takeout pizza at Walmart? One word...DON'T.
  10. None of the reissues can be built stock out of the box, only the annual. The reissues all have the 1964 kit chassis (lacks the working springs), chassis has the molded-in exhaust detail removed, engine lacks stock intake and exhaust, no stock wheels or tires are included. The optional (but correct stock) side exhaust parts were deleted also. That said, the reissues (especially the first one, the red "Streaker Vette") are cool in their own right. The molded in black "Night Stalker" (the first one, there were two) was a staple item on K-Mart store shelves for a few years.
  11. The HL stores around here usually sell the racks. The hobby shop that closed a few years ago used to sell them too. Never bought one as I wanted a rack that would hold the tall touch-up spray cans (never got one of those either).
  12. Body is all new. The original (now funny car) body has had all of the panel lines (doors, trunk) wiped off, I don't think it would be possible to put those back as they would be raised areas on the individual sections of the body tooling.
  13. The Jeepster engine would be the way to go. It's not correct for the late (Jeepster) Commando, but with different external accessories (air filter, probably pulleys and fan, possibly exhaust manifolds) it will be good as the Olds V6.
  14. Resin can be done in any number. If that one was done without licensing or permission from Barris, I'd guess the number produced would be extremely low.
  15. The conversion from a Chevy interior is certainly within reach. But the '56 Pontiac is a four-door, so the seats used as a starting point will need a bit more work. The front seat back will need the split filled in, and (in general) the four-door's rear seat bottom is shaped differently from a two-door's at the ends.
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