
Mark
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The Astro I body/Piranha chassis funny car was the Scorpion. It was issued only once, early-mid Seventies. As for the spy car body on that chassis, the roof may or may not line up with the roll cage and driver area on the chassis, depending on the mismatch a decision will need to be made regarding which piece gets modified to make everything fit.
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Use Testors spray can metal flake w/airbrush
Mark replied to RDF's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
2X on the can...I've never had any trouble with the cans, other than that of my own making. You do have to shoot clear over it anyway, why not just use the can? The only hitch is the "time window" between coats, and you'll have that with an airbrush too... -
What AMT/MPC Molds Might Still Exist at Round 2?
Mark replied to Snake45's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
That tow truck version was included in the '72 annual kit also. -
The 1:1 car has a 273 V8, biggest one you could get in a Barracuda at the time. Actually, it wouldn't surprise me if the car was actually a Valiant...pretty much the same thing after the roof is cut off. I got the Round 2 reissue kit as a gift a couple of years ago, only recently did I get up the courage to try to do the pearl white/candy red fade paint job. It actually came out good. I did the paint around Thanksgiving, both colors are lacquer, should be thoroughly gassed out, cured, whatever, and ready to shoot some clear over by now...
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Paint chrome or strip & paint?
Mark replied to Kevinch's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I wouldn't attempt to remove only part of the plating on a part...I'd be concerned about the removal medium still "working" after paint is applied in the desired areas. For mag wheel spokes and such, I paint over the chrome, leaving things like lug nuts and center caps plated. If the plating on the wheel is overly thick, I'll set it aside and look for a set with good plating. -
I'd look at the most recent statement to see exactly what you have/don't have. Maybe the broker lopped off a few items in order to give you a lower quote...
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1/16 Drag Slicks and FC front tires
Mark replied to sflam123's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
See if you can pick up a built/started kit as a source of spare parts. I was looking for one of the Hawaiian Dodge Charger funny car kits awhile back (that one had newly tooled tires and wheels) and was able to do just that. I found it at a show though, shipping would be costly on a large scale kit like these. -
How old is photoetching (for model parts)?
Mark replied to LDO's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Not sure, but the model railroad aftermarket was using it long before the car guys. I had a couple of PE items done in the late Eighties, but Putty Thrower (Mark Gustavson) was doing model car PE first, as I got info from him and used his source for my stuff. -
Paint chrome or strip & paint?
Mark replied to Kevinch's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Nothing special, others here used it before I tried it...LA's Totally Awesome cleaner. I read about it here, saw it at a Family Dollar store ($3 for two quarts), and tried it. I have since bought a gallon at Ollie's for five bucks (actually less as I had a coupon). -
There were six kits in the series, all had the same chassis but some kits had one type of rear suspension while the rest had another type.
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Paint chrome or strip & paint?
Mark replied to Kevinch's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I haven't needed to buy the stuff lately, but I don't recall seeing the Castrol branded product last time I was shopping for it. The Purple Power works fine for me, and I won't need more any time soon because I use something else to get paint off of plastic parts. -
The old CAR MODEL magazine had a couple of articles on building garage scenes from cardboard boxes. The idea was to put all of the tools, spare parts, and figures included in most car kits to use.
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The drag strip display base in several late sixties AMT kits looks an awful lot like that Revell item, but with space for only one car.
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The automotive ones were previewed at a trade show around 1964, but did not generate enough interest from hobby dealers to warrant production. The idea behind these was that they would have been cheap to make, Revell was getting into slot racing at the time so money for other new products was thin on the ground. An Ed Roth themed one would have been cool to see too...
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Paint chrome or strip & paint?
Mark replied to Kevinch's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
If the Purple Power is strong (hasn't been through a lot of uses, and hasn't got water or condensation in it) fifteen minutes to half an hour should do the job. Make sure all of the lacquer is off (thick areas or runs may require some assistance), clean the parts well, then treat them like unplated parrs (which they now are). -
Paint chrome or strip & paint?
Mark replied to Kevinch's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I prefer to remove plating from parts that I want to paint. Those parts have at least the equivalent of a heavy coat of paint on them, in the form of the lacquer undercoat that helps the plating (vacuum metalizing) adhere to the plastic. I use the "purple" cleaner (used to be called Castrol Super Clean, then called Super Clean, the one I have now is Purple Power) as it takes off the lacquer undercoat as well as the plating. If you strip a part molded in white and then plated, if you get everything then the part should be plain white when it is stripped. If it has yellowish areas on it, then some of the undercoat is still on it. -
Chevies had six-lug wheels on cars well into the Forties. I believe the Galaxie Limited '48 has them.
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AMT '64 Thunderbird. That top will drop right on to the more common '66.
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Top center could be AMT '58 Impala or '59 El Camino. Top right: AMT '51 Chevy. Second row, left two: AMT '57 Ford, AMT '65 Chevelle wagon. Bottom center could be AMT '67 Fairlane or '67/'68 Mustang/'68 Shelby GT500.
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I too have State Farm, the glass coverage is a separate line item. This may differ by state though...
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If you have glass coverage, you shouldn't have to shell out a nickel for a new windshield. Glass coverage costs very little, but it's one of those things that isn't brought up all of the time because it isn't a big money maker for the agent. I've had it on every vehicle I have owned (six), and of those, three have had the windshield replaced at least once. One car had the rear glass replaced. I have paid for glass twice. One was to replace the side glass in a truck cap (not covered because it was not original to the truck) and one windshield that had a wiper scratch in it before I bought the car. I could probably have put a crack in it and gamed the system, but I don't operate that way.
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The big mounting boss on the back of the wheel would point to it being from one of the Zinger kits. The kit itself may not have been molded in green, but weren't the parts in those kits molded in different colors (body in one color, black plastic tires)? Maybe the plated parts for several kits were molded in one bunch, in whatever color plastic they had too much of at the time.
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The Model King reissue of the GTO from about fifteen years ago had the original chassis and exhaust system. The only thing missing was the left front "floater" tire (it had all four tires the same). Chassis is two-piece but not the NASCAR unit. As I understand, some of the cars in this series had a different rear suspension setup from the others. I'm not sure which setup was used in the Model King reissues of the GTO or Monte Carlo, or if they differ from the original MPC kits.
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The six-spoke wheel with the flat backside is from the MPC Dodge Sportsman van kits (passenger version). There were two: an undated issue from mid-'71, and a '72 annual. That is a rear wheel for the dual engine wheelstander version. Two narrower wheels were included for the front.
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That crate is from the IMC (Lindberg) Little Red Wagon kit. You're supposed to put the leftover engine in it.