Snake45

My go-to for model car stuff is modelroundup.com. Great service and speed.

Word! If you just want to remove the shiny chrome part, about 5-10 minutes in common household ammonia does the job. So fast you can almost watch it happen.

The AMT is one of the few 1/48 Corsairs I've never built (completed). I've built the Monogram (2), Otaki (2), Lindberg, Hasegawa (2), Heller (3), and Academy (2) that I can think of right offhand. I still have to build an AMT, a Tamiya, a Hobbycraft, and a Hobby Boss. Here's what my AMT looked like last time I worked on it (several years ago). The plan is to finish it as a British one in their distinctive gray and green camo.

Cool idea! Or just add a hood scoop or lump and you can call it a Modified Production, which is even cooler! At least one of mine will end up on the strip with you.

That's because the top of the wheel opening is based on the character line, which wasn't raised as it should have been.

The reason it looks that way is that MPC didn't raise the body character line on the Firebird and Camaro models from the '68s, the way Chevy and Pontiac did on the real ones for 1969. Look at the remains of your Revell Camaro body and you'll see what I mean.

That's what I thought too, when I bought it!

I bought this glue bomb Old Pro at the local toy show a couple years ago. It first appeared on one vendor's table with a price of $35. I tried to haggle him down, but he told me "It's a rare, original kit." "I just bought two of them at Ollie's last week in Beverly Hills Cop boxes for $8 apiece," I told him. No deal. Couple months later, another vendor had it on his table and I got it for eight or ten bucks. It looked like an easy Snake-Fu rescue, but as is so often the case, I decided it needed more work than I wanted to invest in it. I guess it wouldn't take THAT much to get it back on the shelf (though there are some things I'd simply HAVE to fix.) It probably wouldn't be any more trouble to build a whole new body for the thing--I've bought several of these kits over the years just for parts. Hmmmmmm

Very nice, very clean! Well done and model on!

Maybe we need an "Old Pro Group Build."

The real problem (in this area) is that the front part of the rear fender "hips" aren't correctly contoured under the rear side windows. The MPC Camaro shared this problem. I tried to fix it by filing/sanding on the MPC Camaro in the foreground of this pic; the Revell Camaro behind it shows what it SHOULD look like. Your roof swap took care of this problem quite handily.

I used the Old Pro scoop on my '65 Chevelle Mod Prod wagon, chopped down and turned around. Looks the part! Meanwhile, you're putting me in the mood to build a "box stock" Old Pro of my own. I'll use the AMT body and since you're going black, I'll go dark blue. I've got a giant can of Rustoleum metallic blue I need to use on something.

I'd be happy if they changed their title to REALScale Modeler and dropped all the sci-fi starships and monsters.

I bought an original unbuilt hardtop on ebay around 2009, seem to remember paying around $60 for it. I'm not at all sorry to see it reissued, quite the contrary. Pretty sure I could still get $60 out of my original if I wanted to. OTOH, I'd be pretty steamed if I'd bought a glue bomb, needs-much-work '63 Nova wagon last year for $40.

That didn't come out half bad at all! If you can get the canopy frames painted to match, it'll be really nice! BTW, I have one of these kits I've been messing with off and on since the '70s. Not sure if I'll ever get it finished.

Sounds like a plan, but I'd chop that goofy-ass hood scoop down to about half to two-thirds of its height. I think NHRA had a 7" scoop height rule at the time. It is, except for the shapes of the wheel openings and the whole rear end. Sigh. We could still use a definitive '69-'72 Nova, but I doubt we'll ever get one now. I have one on the Shelf of Doom where I grafted the back panel and bumper of an AMT into a Revell body. I need to BOYD that thing sometime soon.

The "Plum Crazy" color is jolting on a Corvette (you didn't have any Mopar kits on the shelf?), but there's no denying that's a great finish and a nice model. Well done and model on!

Some lacquers that are untouched by Super Clean come right off in 92% rubbing alcohol.

About a year ago, when the G was handing out $600 a week on top of unemployment, I noticed ebay prices and activity go up. And I admit--I was doing some of it.

Absolutely outstanding! I LOVE stuff like this! Well done and model on!

My favorite glue bomb vendor, at the last toy show, had a fairly cleanly built--not a glue bomb, but not exceptional in any way--GL he wanted $85 for. This is the guy who's sold me a lot of nice rebuilders for $5 and $10.

It's not a restoration. You made significant changes/improvements to it. I'd call it a rebuild by my definitions. (I might do a whole post on the fine points of such words sometime.)

Not really--two completely different things. Both require skill, and both can be a lot of fun--I enjoy both.

I don't think the dual quad hi-rise pro street setup would work well for Cannonball. Remember, gas mileage is (IMO) as important as brute horsepower. I'm going with a single 4-barrel on mine for that reason.

Worst paint-drying problem I ever had was the old Pactra Odds N Ends enamel Hunter Green, thinned with naphtha and airbrushed. That stupid model was tacky for almost two years! (That paint dries fine thinned with lacquer thinner, but pretty pebbly/orange peeled. Testor enamels thinned with naphtha flow out to a nice shine, I've discovered.) It did eventually dry, and I was able to polish it out and finish the model (as a BOYD project) years later.