Snake45

Yeah, let's get into name-calling, 'cause that always helps. And you bump everything of yours that doesn't get answered first time. I've googled some of your stuff just so we can all get on with our lives, but I don't have time to do that with everything.

Oh yeah, that'll help. Everyone will get it now. 'Cause, you know, we just needed to see it twice. Again. This is an active thread. People are playing the game. If somebody knows a song, it gets answered pretty quickly. How about we all just post stuff ONCE. If it doesn't get got, it doesn't get got, and we all get on with our lives?

1. Spooky, Classics Five? 3. I Know a Place, Staples Singers 1972.

1. I think it's Timothy, about a mine cave-in. Don't remember the band. 2. CSNY, Wooden Ships. Post-nuclear war? I dunno.

Rock On, David Essex.

John Denver, don't remember the title.

The Air That I Breathe, but I don't remember who did it. Hollies? City, Journey.

I think most of my model airplanes of the last 30 years or so have removable props. As you say, great for storage. Haven't had a broken prop blade in a long, long time.

I've found that most such wooden sticks have warpage in them and aren't really flat. I like to put sandpaper on some Evergreen (thick) strip styrene with double-side tape.

I can tell you that 90% isopropyl alcohol won't take off Walmart Color Place primer, as I've stripped paint (Testor lacquer) off of it with that and the primer was completely intact.

First, read my sig line. Now, glue the cowling piece onto the fuselage and do whatever you need to do to make it look like it grew there, if you get my drift. Replace the prop shaft with a piece of plastic rod or aluminum tubing, glue it to the prop, and slip the prop in place last thing just before you put the model on the shelf. Simplicity itself! Another idea would be to come up with some sort of retainer for the plastic prop shaft on the backside of the cowling (a strip of plastic should do it). Glue the nosepiece on, proceed with the rest of the build, and then mount the prop to the secured shaft last thing, as per above.

What I would do with that is, I'd graft parts of the quarters--including the spears and the wheel openings--onto the ex-MPC flip-nose '57 gasser sedan body. In fact, I think I've got a similarly crushed Revell full-detail '57 body that I might do that very thing with.

Yup. The body is basically a promo body, with all the stock trim intact. The version I bought (Model King, I think) even has the Judge decals in a couple different colors. The Judge spoiler is present, too.

Very, VERY nice! I'm planning to do the same thing myself. Good to know that it works so well and looks so good. Well done and model on!

Did that. Back in the '70s, I built a model of how I wanted my '69 Camaro to look, and when I took it to the paint shop, I took the model along and told them, "Make THAT look just like THIS!" And they did.

Does a pencil write better on paper, or on a mirror? (Not a perfect analogy, just trying to make a point about a certain amount of "tooth" on a surface can be desirable.) How smooth you want/need your primer for optimal results will depend on the final paint you're going to use, how you apply it, whether or not you're going to clear-coat, the phase of the moon, the price of pork belly futures, and dozens of other variables that you can only learn by experience. And, as I implied, what works for me might not necessarily work for you. For example, "Lonewolf" and I share prolly 90-95% commonality in materials and techniques, but are very different in that last 5-10%. We both achieve great finishes. Whatever works for YOU.

First off, you don't need to sand the body pre-prime finer than #800 grit, and personally I seldom go finer than #600. Anything finer under primer is just wasted effort. Yes, you need to re-prime. If you broke through your primer with #1500, obviously your primer is very thin and another full coat won't result in too much thickness or buildup. Personally I wet-sand primer with #800, which leaves good tooth for the color coat to grab onto. You'll prolly get a dozen different response posts with at least 20 different recommendations and techniques. There is no "one true way," but there is likely to be one way that works best for you. "There are many paths to the top of the mountain."

Another good one is Autocolorlibrary.com.

It needs an "UNCLE Special" P.38.

I'm aware of two AMT trailers: The 2-axle "service trailer" that was sold as a Blueprinter Special a couple decades ago, and the single-axle that might have first appeared in the '64 Corvette annual, and has also been in the Fireball 500 box. Any further details on the origins and lineage of these would be appreciated.

According to an online inflation calculator: I bought many model cars for $2 in 1966. Some of these were annuals with one-piece chassis and wire axles, but there were also the "Trophy" series kits with full-detail chassis and several custom & racing options for the same price. These were the equivalent of first-line kits (Revell) today selling for $25-$30 MSRP. We're also paying that same price for some of the very same kits we bought in 1966 (AMT, MPC, Revell and Monogram), whose engineering and tooling costs were paid off three or four decades ago. (Yes, I realize the high profit margins on such kits help fund the lovely new stuff.)

It's lacquer but it's very mild. You might want to lay a mist coat on first, before a wet coat. I can't remember if I've specifically used the Wet Look Clear over enamels, but I've used many of the other Testor/Model Master lacquers over enamels with no problems. I wouldn't hesitate to at least try it on a test spoon. I THINK you can prolly get away with it, if you're careful.

If it looks like a station wagon, it's a station wagon.

Walmart has TelePrompTers now? That means they're made in China. (Do they come pre-loaded?) :lol:

BTW, I think the proportions would look better unchopped, but of course it's your model.