peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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"Holdon" or "Holden"?
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Yes, FDM printers have come a long way. Early ones produced objects which looked like they were made from wraps of heavy thread. While I have not had any personal experience with the current FDM printers I imagine they do not handle deep horizontal overhangs very well. SLA (resin) printers seem to handle that problem better (since they can print support structures for such features in the printed object. Or can supports also be added when using FDM printers?.
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Excellent idea, and excellent model!
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Interesting technique, but I'm worried that heat shrink tubing material is rather flexible and stretchy compared to plastic or metal tubes. If I was using this technique, after shrinking and forming I would wick some thin CA glue where the tubing meets the hard parts. That should make the joint more permanent. Yes, I have been called anal in the past, but I think that trait makes me a better modeler.
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Never heard of airbrush lubricant until now. I owned and used my Badger model 200 for over 30 years and it never needed any lubrication. The needle has a Teflon seal. I would think if the lubricant got into the paint or air path it could contaminate the paint.
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24 minutes ago, Dpate said:
Electric cars. Ah what a scam.
They sure are! How silly of them to bring back a century-old technology! It's just a fad.
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There are several different types of 3D printers. Filament printers don't quite have fine enough resolution to print smooth car bodies or small details. for fine details and smoother surfaces you would need an SLA printer. I'm not sure what your expectations are. It might be good enough for what you will be doing. And of course the price was unbeatable!
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Whenever trying new combination of paints, new painting technique. or just learning to spray-paint or airbrush, I recommend using something disposable like plastic spoons, or for a larger surface empty plastic soft drink bottles. 16fl. oz. bottles are similar size to 1:25 model cars. That way you won't have to keep stripping the body of your model after bad results. Stripping paint is a pain in the rear end!
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24 minutes ago, Engine 51 said:
Not being on Facebook, what does that reveal?
Regardless of whether it is on FB or not, direct link to Donn's obit has been posted here 5 posts earlier.
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20 hours ago, kenlwest said:
That would work, but I don't really have the tools or skills for that. I have seen some really great work with brass on this forum though!
I find it interesting that you are perfectly at home in a virtual (CAD) world, but don't have any hands-on modeling experience working with metal. You produce some amazing 3D designs, and I have a feeling that you could likely get out of your comfort zone and try some new techniques in the "real" world.
Actually I wish I had half of your CAD abilities to augment my hands-on skills. I have so far only taken baby steps in CAD design.
As for fusee chain, it is a extremely fine metal chain used in antique clocks and watches. It can be used to represent scale chain in model motorcycles or other chain driven vehicles. There is no brand name I know of. There are sellers on eBay who sell fusee chain.
More info about it is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusee_(horology)
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5 hours ago, Claude Thibodeau said:
Hi peter!
Thank you. I will look at your suggestion, but the shallow molding of the tips make it a bit complicated...
CT
I wonder if you could take a Q-Tip or similar cotton swab, dip the end in flat black paint, then dab it into the depression in the end of the exhaust pipe? That way you should have a neat round black spot of paint. But before you try it on the exhaust, maybe practice on something unimportant to see how well this trick works for you.
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Just like with resin cast items, depending on the CAD drawing of the model and on what type of a printer was used to produce the item, there is a wide range of quality and fidelity out there. Some look even worse than this "thing", while others are almost indistinguishable from injection-molded parts.
Don't be discouraged by this single bad example - do some research, ask around (even here), and then decide which 3D items to buy and be happy with them.
Also educate yourself about 3D printing technology so you will know the difference for example between a filament printer, and a SLA printer. That way you can ask the seller questions before jumping in and buying something.
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On 8/12/2023 at 1:45 PM, espo said:
Most of the Food Trucks around here anymore seem to specialize in unique foods at parties or events. In the old days, the ones that would drive thru business and work sites throughout the day where called "Roach Coaches" for a reason.
While typical Roach Coaches are still around delivering food to various work sites, the "other" food trucks are now a booming business. They offer all sorts of ethnic foods, and specialty foods. There are also events organized where bunch of those food trucks get together serving a feast of flavors. to their customers.
My model club hires the old-style roach coach to provide food and drinks during our annual model contest. While it is a typical food you would expect from a roach coach, that guy's food is actually quite tasty. He grills breakfast items, and for lunch he offers burgers, hot dogs, Italian sausage, and other freshly grilled items.
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This generic (and not exactly accurate) paint nomenclature (both by modelers and by some hobby paint companies) really does a disservice to modelers who like to try wide range of paint products. After all, just because some paint uses acrylic binder does not automatically mean that it uses mild solvent (like water or alcohol). As you know, many "acrylic" finishes out in the world use "hot" solvents which will attack polystyrene. I know I'm fighting a losing battle, but I keep trying.
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David, sounds like you are professional painter, so you likely understand paint chemistry. "Acrylics" is a poor paint description being propagated by modelers to indicate a non-organic-solvent-based or "water-based" paints (because in the real world acrylic binder is used in both organic and non-organic solvent based paints). Are you saying that you have moved onto using those "non-stinky" water-based acrylic enamels?
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When I build models I try to get the as close to perfect as I can.
I don't have much time to spend on hobbies. I rather have pristine kit to start with, and fix any problems it already has, or fix my own mistakes than "wasting" hours trying to deconstruct someone else's work, fix their mistakes, and strip paint. Unless there is a extremely important reason to rebuild a model (mine or someone else's), only new kits for me.
Yet, I enjoy spending time fixing old or non working mechanical or electronic devices. I like to take them apart, figure out the problem and repair it (even if I have to fabricate some piece that can't be purchased). I'm "Mr. Fix-it" to my family and friends.
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Digital photos come in many (pixel dimension) sizes and resolutions. I access te forum from my PC and when uploading my own photos I aways edit them (cropping and resizing). My goal is to make sure my photos have have 1200 pixels or less horizontally. That is plenty for still showing enough details in the photo, while keeping the file size down to less than 1MB.
Yes, the admins tell us there is plenty of image storage space available, but with everybody hosting their photos here to me it is common courtesy to minimize the space usage. Yes, we have lots of space but how about 10 years from now? Plus it makes no sense to upload huge images (like 4000x3000 pixels which are several MB in size). It is like too much information.
So yes, some effort is involved is one wants to be a responsible forum member. I use Corel Draw Suite's PhotoPaint to manipulate my photos, but there are lots of free graphic image editors out there. Some very complex, others simple. Even the Microsoft Paint can be used for this, but I find it awkward. Friend of mine uses https://www.irfanview.com/ and to me this one is more powerful than MS Paint but not complicated. Like I mentioned, cropping and resampling (changing the photos pixel dimensions) are the only things needed.
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I feel the opposite. That car doesn't do anything for me. I find its lines awkward. But I think that 1954 Guilietta Sprint is a very good looking car.
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2 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:
Veteran cars have been very under represented in kit form over the years. The only ones I can think of were made by Airfix, Revell and Gowland way back when in 1/32nd scale mainly. Aurora did a few in 1/16th scale plus one of two other kits of Japanese origin who I cannot remember. The very latest kit is of a vintage Mercedes in 1/24th scale by ICM that has photo etched wire wheels that I can think of. Not much market for them I guess.
True. There are also other models of the early 20th Century vehicles in smaller scales. Micron Art (no longer in business) produced several photoetched brass models of such vehicles in N scale (1:160). I built their Knox Fire Engine. See https://nscalevehicles.org/galleries/2/knox_fire_pumper.php for photos, and https://nscalevehicles.org/tips_n_tricks/micronart_knox_fire_truck.php for construction details.
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1 hour ago, superbike-shaun said:
Please be aware that I have spoken to Chris ( upscale hobbies) and are working to get the problems associated with my New Belkits Ralleye car Being lost squared away.anyone whom is interested please shoot me a msg I'll be happy to share thank you shaun
Good to know that the problem is being addressed by Upscale Hobbies. Shaun, since your problem has been discussed openly in this thread since the beginning, why not post the info here?I guess we don't really need to get all the details of how things are being addressed, but once the problem is resolved, you could update this thread with some additional details as to what was the problem, the final results, and whether you are satisfied with the answers you got, and with the final resolution.
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That is a very unusual and interesting subject. Is the model designed in CAD and 3D printed?
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That is really cool! The "gold" finish using Tamiya clear yellow came out surprisingly well (better than I would have expected).
One thing you might consider doing is painting the exhaust tips flat black, so they don't look like they are closed off.
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It looks really good to a non-aircraft buff like me. Nice model of a corporate jet. What scale? 1:48?
As for the cabin interior, that would come in really handy if one decoded to do a cutaway model (like I used to see sometimes in travel agencies decades ago).
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Every time I see this thread pop to the top of the topics list I have a chuckle seeing it in the "Welcome! Introduce yourself"" section of the forum. No complaints - I just think it is funny.
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image upload test
in How To Use This Board
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Cute!