peteski

Normally I just hover my cursor over the user's name, and when the popup with the user's info shows up I just click on "Message" button to send a PM. But this time, instead of clicking on the "Message" button, I clicked on the member's name. That brought me to a page with a summary of that members info. There, on top there also is a "Message" (PM?) button, but lower, under the Activity tab there is a "Write public message on member's activity feed". That is probably the "public" message. I guess the messages listed under that tab are public. Up to this point I never looked at any of those.

Oh well, finally the one I knew and the quiz is closed. I didn't see any solutions in any messages. But when I PM'd Michael my answer I almost sent a public message (whatever that it) by accident. Maybe that is what Michael did with Pete J? I don't even know where I can read public messages.

Nice job on the kit, especially the detail painting.

If you can pick up some warm white LED Christmas tree lights after the holidays (50% off sale), they are a good source of standard 3mm or 5mm LEDs. The lens might be oddly shaped, but you can file it down until it is flat (the clear material is epoxy resin). Just don't file it down too close to the LED chip inside.

Impressive!

Unless a chunk of solid paint came up from the can, I suspect that if you cleaned the tip immediately after last spraying, the tip would not clog. That's how I do it. Also, instead of using a drill bit, you might have been able to use a sewing needle to clean out the orifice whiteout causing too much damage.

Yup, that one I know.

Which Tamiya paint? As I understand, the acrylic paint in little glass jars is an alcohol-based acrylic lacquer. Molotow is also alcohol based, so it is not out of the question that it interacted with that paint. If you used the TS spray paints, then I'm not sure if there should be any problems, but in my experience, and from what I see on the forum, anytime you are using different brands/types of paint, there is a risk of undesired interactions.

There was nothing to think about. Back then we all used that never-drying Testors chrome silver, because that was basically all that was available for hobby paints for chrome-like color. We all used it.

Couldn't agree more.

Well, maybe not the simplest process, but I *NEVER* had any problems with it. Actually, looking at the technical side, my procedure is much simpler than yours. Since I copy/paste the URL to the image, all I'm doing is simple ASCII text operation. Plain ASCII text has been around since the teletype days. Your copy/paste involves all sorts of "black magic" inside the operating system. Yes, it looks really easy and simple from the end user's perspective, but there is quite a bit happening behind the scenes.

Well, one buys a bottle of wine to consume the wine. That is what the money pays for. The empty bottle and straw then normally get tossed in the garbage (or recycled). But a frugal modeler can utilize the discarded packaging for modeling purposes. Hey, even that empty bottle could be used to build a nice ship-in-a-bottle model.

To me it looked like a Fiero-based kit car. I guess it was the mid-engine thing.

Come to think of it, these remind me of paper models I used to build as a kid (well, the only difference is the medium - metal vs. paper).

I suspect the reason is that they cannot b added later (once the initial post get locked). Reading the forum I also don't think there is enough traffic to warrant a separate First Responder forum section.

But the straw wrapping is free.

I have never encountered a spray can nozzle which I was not able to clean. I don't just spray the can upside down to clear the paint out. I pull the nozzle off the can and either using a pipette squirt lacquer thinner through it, or sometimes rinse it in an ultrasonic cleaner. That way the nozzle will be like new next time I spray. Of course I clean right after spraying (when the paint in the nozzle is still fresh and easily dissolved). You have to be careful with the nozzles like the ones shown in the above post. After cleaning make sure that the steel pin inside is pushed up. Otherwise, when the nozzle is reinstalled on the can the pin can press on the valve in the stem of the can and squirt some paint out (ruining the cleaning job). But all this cleaning might be too much hassle for all the spray can users, since they don't use airbrushes due to too much hassle with cleaning them (Yes, I mostly use an airbrush, but I clean the spray can nozzles even after decanting the paint). Yes, I'm a bit anal.

I often reuse photos I previously uploaded to the MCM forum. I use a browser on a Windows PC. I have 2 tabs (or 2 browser windows if you don't like tabs). In one I'm composing the new post which will include a previously uploaded photo. In the other tab, I'm in "My attachments" section of the forum. To get there, left click on your user name in the upper right corner, then in the pull down menu select "My Attachments". That will show you a photo browser screen. Scroll through your photos until you find the one you want to use in your new post. Left click on that photo and that brings up a photo viewer. If you place the cursor over the photo, it will turn into a magnifying glass. Left click on the photo. It will bring a full size version of the photo (either in new tab, or new browser window). The URL field will show a link ending with something like .jog or .png. It will look like http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_11/FujimiPorsches.JPG.b18002eac83e2d169dff13e6da9f46b8.JPG Copy that link and past it in the compose window of your new post. The link will automatically expand and show the photo. You're done. To reuse more photos, just follow the same procedure of finding the photo in your attachments as mentioned above.

I'm really surprised with "I don't use files" or "I don't like files" responses. Really? IN my hobbies files are just as important of a tool as hobby knife, tweezers or CA glue. I'm not talking about just smoothing the gate area after cutting the parts off with sprue cutter, I'm talking about using files for lots of tasks. I often have to remove some plastic of some part, or scratchbuld a part by shaping piece of plastic with a file. I don't see how I would get by not using files.

For cutters (sprue and others) see this post and the rest of the thread. As for files,. there are so many different types and sizes/shapes that you really need to chose ones you will want for your specific tasks. Grobet names really good quality files (but they are expesive), and then you have cheap Chinese files you can get from many online sources.

You're welcome. I'm surprised you didn't find any color photos. I just used my favorite search engine and searched for "apollo lunar landing module" and I found lots of color photos. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=apollo+lunar+landing+module&t=h_&iax=images&ia=images

The color inks or toner used in Ink Jet or Laser printers (often used by low volume or custom decal manufacturers) is translucent and it requires that the image is printed on white paper (or another white background) for proper color rendition. Otherwise the colors will be tinted by the background color. The high-volume decal manufacturers utilize screen-printing process which uses opaque inks, so no white background is needed. There are also computer printers (like Alps MicroDry or some color laser printers which are capable of printing white undercoat) can print the white background and color images over white in a single operation.

My 2019 Kia Soul has fly-by-wire accelerator. This is the first car I owned that doesn't have a mechanical throttle linkage. While most of the time works ok, sometimes I step on the accelerator and the engine does not respond like the old cars did. I guess the computer "decides" that it is not in my(or car's) best interest to rev up. It can be very annoying because it usually happens when I need the extra power. And no, it is not anti-skid or stability control engaging - it happens on dry pavement and without any wheel slippage.

Excellent idea! Not sure why I (or others) have not thought if it. Regular 14 or 12AWG wire is still fairly stiff. You can make it more like solder (softer) by annealing it. I believe that to anneal copper you have to heat it up until it glows, then quench it in cold water (yes opposite than what is done to steel).

PC Board drill bits are made from Tungsten Carbide (extremely hard and drill effortlessly through almost anything), have split point, and 1/8" shaft. I use them almost exclusively. They made my drilling tasks much easier. While new ones are very expensive, there are sources of either much more affordable used (with plenty of life still left) or resharpened PCB bits.