peteski

Interesting. I did not know that. The packaging looks similar to the the Microscale adhesive. I wonder if it is the same stuff relabeled as BMF?

My oldest (actually the first ever sheet of BMF chrome foil), is over 30 years old, and whatever foil still remains on the backing paper still has good adhesion. Hard to believe, right? If the other sheets I bought later have adhesive that lasts as long, that will be lifetime of model building for me (I don't expect to model or even live past 90). ?

BMF Adhesive? AFAIK, BMF does not make or sell just the adhesive. Are you sure that is the name? But there is:

That one does look quite close to the OP's motor. Good find Ace.

No idea what it is, but it sure is a pretty looking sporty car. Those "brows" over the headlights give it sort of angry look.

New appliances are packed with all sorts of computers and other electronics. Good luck with it. I dread the day when I no longer can keep my 35+ year Kenmore top-loader (with all mechanical controls) running. It was designed to wash clothes and that is what it does. No fancy computers or sensors to break. It does not play songs at the end of the cycle, or make chirping noises.

I model in N scale (1:160) -- tiny trains, but I have also messed around larger scale trains. I doubt it is O scale (tinplate) motor. Those are larger motors and don't use permanent magnets since they are AC motors. This motor is small enough to be from some H0 scale train, or maybe S scale. A basic permanent-magnet 12V DC motor. Like Ace said, this one appears to have the front bearing missing. Other than a curiosity, I would not bother with it. You can get much better motors on eBay for couple of dollars each.

I guess that will work, if that is the only choice left. But the matte aluminum foil was never nowhere as pliable as the original chrome foil. I still have a decent stash of the good stuff, and since I'm not a very prolific builder, hopefully it will last me until I no longer build models.

Guys, my original statement was "I suspect I know the region of the world this car was manufactured. " I did not state that the region wasn't USA!! I did not mention any part of the world either!! I also stated "I suspect", not "I know". Nowhere in there is any hint of the car's origin. You are all putting words in my mouth. In no way my statement is any sort of a hint as to the origin of the vehicle. I don't get it. In my second post I stated "If the photo was taken in USA (no reasons to doubt it), then I bet that car is far away from its homeland!". "I bet"? Is this really considered a hint? I'm no expert. I just don't get it.

You must have missed the sticky thread on buying your first airbrush/compressor in the Q & A section.

That sounds similar to SPAM and Robo calls we are fighting on our phones. So much guano to deal with!

The problem was likely triggered bu some change in your laundering routine. Have you changed the detergent or softener, or anything else? Like others said, I would avoid coating the screen with any oily substance. Not only it is flammable, it will likely cause more sticking. I have a drier that is around 40 years old. It has metal screen and the lint comes off really easily. I changed the screen about 5 years ago, just because it was ripped in few spots. You could always just rinse the lint off in your sink or bathtub. The lint should rinse right off. I would put some sort of a screen in the drain so the wet lint does not go down the drain (or do this outside using a garden hose). Then take a brush and some dishwashing detergent to clean the screen and remove all remains of the oily stuff you put on it. Hopefully, that will take care of the problem.

That really stinks! I feel for you! After the last Thanksgiving was a total bust for most people, this one will also be a bust for you guys. I don't blame you for being really aggravated.

Some modelers think that the metallic particles in silver paint prevent the red or yellow dye from bleeding through. I guess you haven't heard of that. Are you saying that just using plain flat white paint (what brand?) undercoat will prevent dye bleed-through that primers and silver paint can't prevent?

Don, you either got up on the wrong side of the bed this morning, or you are being funny. Since we aren't face-to-face it is hard do tell how what your intentions were. No emoticons, or other clues. Hmmm, maybe you were pissed off. Excuse my poor choice of words. With English being my 2nd language, I thought "homeland" was when one was born.

Ah, a notchback. Got it.

That is a later release of the kit "27" in my photo. I didn't know it was such a rare kit.

Is this the kits you guys are looking for? I had it for years in my stash. Back then those Enthusiast kits were priced at 1800 Yen. The instructions have 1988 date on it. I bought it at AAA hobby shop in Wakefield, MA (long gone).

The chrome surrounds can be painted on the kit's dash using silver paint, or foiled using Bare Metal Foil. It requires some precision, but it can be done. You could also wrap some silver color fine wire (from a craft store) around a brush handle or other suitable-diameter object. Wrap few turns (making a "spring"), then slide if off the object and use cutters or knife to slice the coils into individual rings. Glue those to the dash using some clear paint (I would not use any actual glue for that).

Good point! I didn't even look at the sign. If the photo was taken in USA (no reasons to doubt it), then I bet that car is far away from its homeland!

1989? I wonder how that same McDonald's is rated today (assuming they are still being rated)?

That is such a cool cover! I have one of those framed. Libby serving breakfast (in America). MP3s don't come with all the "Swag" LPs came with.

Nice! That must look quite good when viewed in-person.

I like it! Cool light effects too!

Those large wheels and tires make it look funny. I suspect I know the region of the world this car was manufactured.