peteski

Because unlike when making wine, stomping on the models with your feet will not only crush the models -- it will also hurt your feet!

Do you wax your model's paint before applying BMF, or are you applying it over flat finish paint? If yes, then BMW will not stick well, but judging by what I have read about the recently manufactured BMF is that the adhesive is sub-par. I still have a stash of the older BMF, so what I wrote is not based on personal experience.

True, but if one is handy in recovering some of the fluid that dripped off the model, and pour it back in the bottle of can, all the more power to them.

THey seem to really want to become like amazon, and just get get rid of any type of organization of their stuff. Who needs categories anyway, right?

Visit couple of local automotive body shops and ask the guys that paint the cars whether what you stated is true. You know? Those professional spray painters? I can just see them rolling on the floor laughing. Seriously dude!! Wake up! Also, there are professional auto body people who are members here, and lots and lots of modelers who produce superb airbrushed and rattle-can paint jobs. LISTEN TO THEM, AND SKIP THE "pure physics, algebra, meteorology and chemistry" stuff. Someone here needs a dope-slap here (and it's not me).

Several past posts? How did you miss the huge strippers thread (pinned in the Q&A section) with hundreds of very helpful, and not so helpful posts, where you can find info on about pretty much all plastic-safe strippers ever manufactured (and even about somoe home-brewed ones). Why start yet another stripper thread? I adimit that I did post a message in your thread, but upon reflection, I really don't see how yet another thread rehashing strippers will be of any use. Dude, post your question in the strippers thread.

There is no magical strip-all stripping solution. I mention that every time when someone says "brand X is the best stripper". Neah. Different paints respond differently to different strippers. I have about half a dozen different strippers in my stripping arsenal. As far as Scalecoat Wash Away Paint remover, going by smell, it is similar to ELO. I recall that a label on one of my older ELO bottles listed ingredients, and the main ingredient is a chemical related to the DOT3 brake fluid. Slightly different, but in the same family (going by its name). Scalecoat works well, but I would never leave anything immersed in it for a long time,and besides, that is not what the instructions tell you to do. Probably for a good reason. Also be very careful using ELO or Scalecoat on any Urethane resin castings.

If what I read in forums on the Internet is true, the problem is out of their control (and very unlikely they can find an alternate source for the stuff they used to sell as Chrome Bare Metal Foil). I hope I'm wrong.

"Work"!? Neah -- it's research-in-perpetual-progress.

What is surprising that I have seen some people (earlier in this thread?) mentioned that their kit did not have the ill-fitting bonnet. I wonder if theirs was packaged in a way that the bonnet was not slipped over the cowl.

Excellent modeling, and superb photography! With the natural lighting and backgrounds, the models look like 1:1 vehicles! The weathering is also excellent!

Well, that's why I'm still watching the comments here. Just no more advice from me. Not worth wasting my time and energy tryign to provide some of my hands-on experience to "Mr. Theoretical". After readying all the threads he has posted here I also begun suspecting that he is just having fun with us, but he might actually be serious (in the type of questions he posts, and in ignoring all the helpful hints).

Fellow model builder? Are you sure "Mr. Anonymous" has actually built anything lately? He seems to be too busy with theoretical musings about model paint gravity. I no longer give him any advice, but I am reading all the replies from everybody, including Mr. Crazy, as I find it all very amusing. What's funniest here is that he received a pretty useful reply from the paint manufacturer, which he chose to ignore and continue his quest for perfection on the first try. This thread is the silliest thing I have seen in a very long time.

LOL! While the first example is spot-on, I suspect that not many young people know anything about "All in the Family" or its spinoffs.

I agree on both counts. The whole world is going to hell in a hand basket! Good thing that we don't live forever. I can barely stand the way the world is now. Time to go down to my workshop and immerse myself in a modeling projects to forget the crazy world around us.

Ah, FHC. Duh! Got it. I like the car, so I bought the kit, but not being a Jag expert I had not clue what FHC meant. Well, now I get that the "C" must stand for "coupe". I have never seen the Heller kit in person, but looking at the online photos of built ones and of the parts, I think that overall the Revell is a better kit. Well, if you are willing to accept the windshield thing in FHC. I'm not crazy about the Revell tires, but they are acceptable, and the wire wheels are much nicer than Heller's. Of course you can likely use aftermarket wheels for the Heller kit. Both kits seem pretty good, but neither one is perfect. The bottom line is that it is up to you to choose which is least objectionable to you.

Matt, the original question was about the roadster, so I figured Revell would be the best kit. And yes, Revell's coupe does seem to have a bit of a problem with the windscreen.

Back in the '80s my musician friend has a Fostex multitrack cassette tape deck. It was a 4-track recorder. I don't remember the model, but it looked like this one. Looks Fostex is still around, and even the vintage recorders are still popular.

To follow up, I'm quoting my own post. I contacted Revell customer service (they are in Germany), supplying them photos of the problem. I received an email confirmation with a case number. The web page stated that the response from them might take some time. I waited for about a month with no updates from Revell. At that time I contacted them by email asking for update. But instead of replying to the original email which will not work, I had to find a "real" address. I did receive a prompt reply from the Service Manager at Revell in Germany stating that they never received my original request. He asked me to email the problem description and photos (including a copy of the receipt) directly to him. Once he received those he replied to let me know that he will be sending me the body and the bonnet (not just the bonnet). Why both? I'll explain later. The parts arrived after couple weeks, and the fit of those is perfect. But the body is the one with the odd swirls on the inside of the molding, and there is also a small sink home at the edge of the cowl, near the right side windshield washer nozzle. I tried to use the new bonnet with the old body, but even the new bonnet is still too wide for the body. It seems that when the original bonnet is slipped over the cowl that causes the bonnet to spread out, while also pressing the sides of the cowl inwards,making the cowl narrower. So both, the body and the bonnet end up deformed. Instead of fixing the sink mark on the new body I might still try to place the original body in hot water and spread out the cowl sides to match the new bonnet. As I mentioned before, a small modification of the packing process (not slipping the bonnet over the cowl) would have prevented this problem from occurring. And yes, the replacement bonnet was not slipped over the cowl.

To me there is no comparison: the new Revell kit is the best. I have the coupe (unbuilt yet), but looking at the kit's parts, instructions, and decals, plus the online reviews, it is a winner. The roadster is basically the same kit with a different body.

Yeah, that is a fine example of the period BMW (or was it EMW)?

As I see it, eBay is rife with buy-it-now items with many, many professional sellers selling cheap stuff. Basically a clone of amazon. It has not been a "large flea market" for a very long time.

A sure sign that you are getting old Tom! Ask him about 3 Stooges, or Little Rascals.

Tape made by Bell & Howell? Funny thing is that after they went out of business (along with many other American companies) the Bell & Howell name has been bought by some Chinese entity, which now uses the name (as they tout now "quality product name that has been trusted for years" ) to sell cheap stuff in TV ads

Isn't it about eating grilled food, and watching a fireworks show?