peteski

Yup. I just use #3 and #2 for polishing plastic. #1 is more of a cleaner than polish.

After I'm done sanding clear plastic pieces, I use the Novus polishing system. It makes the plastic part as clear is it was before.

Any CA glue goes from softer than styrene, to harder than styrene as it cures. If you sand it few minutes after it cures, it will still be soft and gummy. But if you wait for 12 hours, it will be harder than styrene. Best is to let it set for few hours before sanding, but not to wait til the next day.

That is what happens when a car is designed by a committee. That's all I can say. I'm pretty sure I know what country it was made in, but I'm not going to look for the specifics.

Simca name always reminds me of Simka and Latka from the "Taxi" sitcom.

To me it looks like he replaced the plastic parts with scratch-built brass lifter and pushrod. Looks like pushrod is a brass rod soldered inside a larger diameter brass tube (lifter). Then the end of the lifter that is in contact with the cam lobe is beveled (usually lifters have flat bottom).

Glen, too bad you didn't take any photos of the "kit" to show what it looked like before you did your magic on it. Some younger modelers might not be familiar with TKM's creations. I only ever bought one TKM kit and it is still sitting untouched in the box.

Beautiful!

Congratulations on your steady progress. The filler cap (just like every other part of this project) looks very realistic.

Looks like I missed that post. Sorry! Who was the person stating that there was a Tamiya '57 Chevy? I was referring to the post below. It stated that there is no Tamiya '57 Chevy. I'm also getting more and more amused with how this thread took on a life of its own, without and additional input from the member who made the "lousy kit" statemenr. So funny!

I believe that the post you are referring to stated "if Tamiya made a '57 Chevy . . .". Seems that you took it way too seriously.

I participate in online forums, and I'm *NOT* a member of FB because of FB's things like the "like" button. That, and the fact that FB is like a constant stream of updates without much organization. I like things organized in separate threads and in separate sections of the forum. Makes subjects easier to browse and even search. And of course it is also nice to see even a short written sentence than just a "thumbs up". Of course I also hope that the nice short "kudos post" is not quoting some original post with 20 large photos in it, although the new version of the forum software seems to solve that problem, even if people fail to trim the quoted post's photos.

This thread is 5 years old, and just bright back recently. Looking at the old posts, the original problem seemed to be resolved by using another brand of lacquer thinner). Plus in 5 years who knows what other things have changed (like airbrush O-ring formulation. I know one thing for sure: Badger 200 (which I have been using for over 30 years), and probably other models, in the paint path use Teflon gaskets, which are unaffected by anything I shoot through it. No worries, no complications.

How about Schoolhouse Rock and Superheros (in the Hall of Justice)? Later on the Wonder-Twins joined them. Then there were silly older superheros cartoons with the Ropeman and Diaperman. Then all those countless Warner Bros. cartoons like Droopy, Foghorn Leghorn, Underdog, etc. Or were those Hanna Barbera? Anybody Remember Josie and the Pussycats? Was that the one that has that sputtering/stuttering dune buggy?

Testors liquid cement is pretty much all-solvent (MEK). There is no way age or evaporation would weaken it. If it was to evaporate, there would be no liquid left in the bottles (well maybe some residue left, but not enough to use it. I almost never glue painted parts. If I really have to use CA glue and BSI brand accelerator (because it is mild and doesn't attach paint like other accelerators). But other than that, I make sure I glue bare plastic parts. I use plan and mask the joining surfaces before painting. I use multitude different masking mediums. Pieces of stripped wire insulation, heat shrink tubing (for round items), masking tape, and lastly liquid masking medium. Evne with bare plastic I often still use CA glue or 5-minute epoxy (because I like using those over solvent cements for styrene). Planning ahead, parts prep, masking, and choosing from multitude of adhesives is what makes for a good modeler (if I might say so myself).

I attended many MassCar shows and was a spectator (but never a participant) in the slammer class event. I was never one to destroy models, but it was fun watching others do it.

Did you live in or visit the New England (Massachusetts) region back then?

Very similar to the "slammer" class (that was before "slammer" name was applied to 1:1 cars) MassCar Model Club used to have in their contest. It was not judged before destruction. You brought any model you wanted, then dropped a sledgehammer on it. And just like with the contest you mentioned, the judges measured the distance the parts flew away. People used to be creative, building models with large wheels, so they would hopefully roll far away.

Here is one of them.

I really don't care for how new versions of GUIs hide stuff so one has to go on a treasure hunt to find certain functionalities. What was wrong with having clearly visible "edit" link. Operating Systems are like that too. Trying to find things in Windows 10 is a huge pain in the butt!

Have you tried pasting this link https://images44.fotki.com/v1405/photos/0/3821280/16356163/ukrainian_6447_5247H_titan4-vi.jpg into Windows Notepad, then copying it from notepad and pasting it into the forums post composing window like this: After pasting it, make sure to hit "Enter" to get the photo to show up. Seems that hitting "Enter" is important. It works without hitting "Enter".

I had to chuckle at the size of the motor compared to the entire lathe - looks like you have more than ample torque there! The modification looks good. You seem to be quite a machinist (is that your vocation)?

While I agree that hosting photos directly on this site is the best option, I just thought of another possibility why even simple URL link from Fotki still shows up as a link, not a photo. It is possible that the URL link coped from Fotki site contains some hidden tag or metadata and this forum displays it as a link instead of expanding it into a photo. Next time someone tries to post a photo (just a direct URL link, no [IMG][/IMG] tags), copy it from Fotki, then paste it into Windows Notepad. Notepad is a text-only editor and it will strip any hidden metadata. Then copy that URL from Notepad, then past it into this forum's post editor window.

They might be still open, but the writing is clearly on the wall. The management/stockholders (?) seem to be itchin' to close up shop. It is too bad as they seemed to be some of the many well established American institutions. Talking about gone department stores, I miss Woolworth too. There was a large multi-story Woolworth store in downtown Boston, and they had a large hobby section on one of the upper floors. Lots of kits and supplies, and even good size model RR section. It was a fun place for a teenager (me) to visit. Then on the way back to the subway station, there was Eric Fuchs hobby shop. It had an excellent kits selection, but prices were higher, so I didn't get to buy many kits there.

Didn't the metal shavings from the turbo's impeller get ingested into the cylinders?