peteski

These wheel covers do look good. John, if you never worked with that type of Shapeways printed parts, those look like they might still have some wax on them. Before you plate or paint them, I recommend a good rinse in Naphta (either VM&P Naphta from a hardware store, or Ronsonol lighter fluid). It will likely make them look more milky, but that just means that the wax was cleaned off.

I might have possible solution, from another forum to your FSM online login problems. It worked for the Trains site (and I believe all the Kalmbach publications use the same web server and database). give it a try. Of course replace the URL in those instructions to the one you are trying to access (finsecale.com). I just tried the trick we tell our users at work that are having problems logging in to Oracle EBS (web-based business system). I'm using Firefox on my Mac and I cleared the cookies and cached data for any trains.com related site and I can now log in. They must have updated the site and now a cookie being used is incompatible with one that was stored earlier. For you (Mac) Firefox users, I went to "Preferences" under the "Firefox" menu. Then to "Privacy & Security" on the left side. Scroll down to "Cookies and Site Data" and choose the "Manage Data..." button. That brings up a dialog box with a list of sites with cookies. Enter "trains.com" in the search box and select all the entries that are Trains.com sites - "cs.trains.com" "www.trains.com" "trains.com" and so forth. My list is gone now so I don't remember all of them but there were 5 or 6. Once you have all selected, click the "Remove Selected" and then the "Save Changes" buttons (in that order) at the bottom. That should do it. If you're on Windows using Firefox is should be about the same. Chrome or Safari will have different methods of clearing cookies but you should be able to do so. Make sure it clears the site data as well.

Ah well. In that case, never mind. Sounds like you have a good friend somewhere.

That's pretty harsh Patrick. The FSM Readers Gallery often features non-military models. Cars, bikes, airliners, figures, sci-fi. Anythign goes. The photos I submitted years ago was an automotive/motorcycle subjects.

Didn't they ask for your address? Back when I submitted my photo, it was through the snail mail (and a color slide).

I also heard on the news that brakes were not applied before the crash. BTW, I would have never imagined that we will have cars with built in telemetry recording capabilities! Most of us here are old enough to see that we have come a long way from what we drove in the early '80s or earlier. Basic electronic ignition with smog control, and AM/FM/cassette radio was the extent of the "electronics" in the car. Well, maybe a digital clock. And going back further - oh boy! Adjusting the timing and dwell on a point ignition, and making sure the condenser was hooked up!

The ones that use wax support are usually translucent white. If it is gray then it probably doesn't have any wax. Just give it the same cleaning that you would for a styrene model. Dishwashing detergent and warm water, or maybe alcohol rinse.

I have both ARII/IMEX kits from the original release. I haven't looked at them for some years, but I agree that their proportions are a bit off, and the dashboard seems too flat.

I have that kit too. When I get it on my workbench I would like to figure out how to do the engine-turned finish on metal foil for the nose. I'm also really surprised that the aircraft has no windshield (no forward visibility exceed for peering out of the side windows). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spirit_of_St._Louis

Found!

Very nicely built! I have that kit (to be built someday). This is the kind of model Harry P. would have loved.

Congratulations Steve! Doesn't FSM send you a complementary copy if your material (photo) get published? That is what they used to do some time ago (when my photo got published)..

That's correct. Then you trim or sand the foil away until all that is left is the emblem. I usually use CA glue for the filler.

It also depends on which printer was used. Some use wax for temporary support of the resin, and sometimes not all the wax is removed before the part is shipped.

Try Floquil/Testors Easy Lift Off (ELO) or Scalecoat Wash Away Paint Remover. Make sure that any stripping solution is lukewarm (75-85 deg. F). Warmed, it has more potency. But not too hot - that would be bad.

Hey Steve, that looks like a bigger brother to my '57 Chevy. "The" BMF car. Speaking of methods for chrome emblems, there is another method: foil-casting. That's how I did those 3 "checks" on the front fender and the Chevrolet script on the hood. This method has been described elsewhere on the forum

BMF feels quite a bit thinner than any kitchen aluminum foil. At least in my part of the world. BMF is also not aluminum, and it is much more stretchy than kitchen foil. Makes a world of difference.

Did you look 2 posts above yours?

Um, open the slot in stainless steel tubing using X-acto knife? Interesting . . .

I think you meant "translucent" Opaque would be good thing.

Sounds like you are using water-based paints. I thought the new Revell paints would be solvent-based. There seems to be a lot of confusion and speculation about Revell line of paint, and what's new and what's old. While I have plenty of other paints to use, I am also curious about the those Revell paints. Like someone mentioned earlier, it would be nice if some modeling magazine would do a review of all the Revell paints.

Me too. Along with squirreled away Testors, and Accu-Paint I also use other currently available "stinky" old-school type paints like Tru-Color paints, and Scalecoat II. FSM magazine recently had an article evaluating several new lacquer paints. I was not aware that some of those paint lines ever existed. So yes, Testors is slowly disappearing, but other new lines of hobby paints are coming to the market. And not just water-based paints. Those are all "stinky" paints.

No problem.I was just amused that you brought up a really old thread when I remembered that Revel paints seem to be "new" again. Here is the recent thread, but it doesn't really give any good info about the new paints.

LOL, the thread you pointed to is from 2013!! I think the Revell paints being discussed now are the "new" 2021 edition. Not relabeled Humbrol.

Yes, FSM is getting skinnier and skinnier. Readers are directed to see the online contents. Lately there only have been 2-3 model reviews per issue (in the past there were half a dozen). "See more reviews online" they tell us..