Jump to content
Board will be offline for a little while tonight ×
Model Cars Magazine Forum

peteski

Members
  • Posts

    8,315
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by peteski

  1. 5 minutes ago, espo said:

    Everyone, now google a picture of a '85 thru '88 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS. The moldings surrounding the windows, the grill area, and portions of the rear bumper and area under the trunk lid all are this shade of black and was often called "Black Chrome".  this was a style of trim used on a few GM Products in the hopes that they would look sportier or something.

    Thank you for that David. That is exactly what I remember being called black chrome (or blackout chrome). Not the shiny dark metallic color which is apparently also called black chrome.

    Back around the same time I did the this with my '76 Camaro.  I painted the window trim, etc with satin black paint.  Black chrome baby!  :D

    Camaro01_roll17SM.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  2. As I remember, this is simply a satin black paint which is often used in moldings which would otherwise be chrome (or shiny silver).  Not flat, and not glossy.  BMF black chrome is also to be applied to trim pieces which should be black instead of metallic chrome, but it doesn't produce as good of a result at the paint. Foil remains shiny, and the black color doesn't look like the black trim should look like.

    Not sure why the name is suddenly being questioned. Both BMF and Testors have used that name/description for many years.

    • Like 2
  3. 3 hours ago, Lone Wolf said:

    You're not questioning a young and inexperienced idiot, who's not aware of the obvious need for white to make the statements I have.

    I'm not questioning your experience, but you just arbitrarily stated that it the clear coating does not yellow, without providing much detail.  Comparing your differing experience to mine (I'm also like you, not a young or inexperienced idiot), I simply asked for more details.  I will trust but verify, especially when it comes to things I read on the Interwebs (which is *FULL* of young, inexperienced, and/or clueless people). Just ask @Ace-Garageguy .

    To be honest, with 68 posts under your belt, I just don't know how much experience you have, or how reliable your info is. So don't get in a huff when someone asks you for more details about some product you tried and touting to others.  When you, like me, have been around this forum for quite a while, you'll learn to question new product or  technique someone touts here.

  4. On 4/28/2024 at 5:03 PM, Lone Wolf said:

    I do have a (not model related project) I used it on, that's now several years old, and so far it has shown no signs of changing any colors.

    What color is your project?  White or some very light color?  If it is was a darker color, the yellowing would not be very apparent.

  5. 21 hours ago, Lone Wolf said:

    BTW, For anyone with an already bought "supply" of 2X paints but don't want to throw them all away, I have a proven solution for gloss clear coating the acrylic 2X colors. I found (by Testing) that Minwax Indoor/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane gloss clear works Perfectly,  even over Faskolor acrylic paint. Mostly Green 11.5oz spray cans, my local Home Depot carries them..

    You might think twice before clear coating any lighter colors with Minwax Urethane anything in general.  In my experience it the Minwax urethanes (from a can, not sprays) will turn greenish amber as they age. 

    • Thanks 1
  6. Is this specifically model related (since you posted it in a model specific Q & A section). If not, then the best plaice for this would likely be in the off-topic section.  No I'm not playing a backseat moderator - just stating my personal opinion.

    In any case, if you revealed where that log came from might help others to identify it.

  7. Yes, while not popular, they do exist.  Just like White LEDs are actually blue LED die  with a phosphor coating which converts most of the blue light to other colors (resulting in apparent white light), purple (or pink) LEDs are also blue LEDs with another type pf phosphor coating, resulting in purple/pinkish) light.

    I scored some of the small surface mount (SMD) LEDs from a surplus outfit called Electronic Goldmine.   They are not the same as grow light LEDs. Here is a link to them: https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/products/g25733?_pos=4&_sid=880bae79b&_ss=r

    Unfortunately they recently made the minimum order $35, but if you browse theough the site you might find enough items to satisfy that.

    You could also search for purple LED on eBay or amazon.

  8. I did a quick search, and here's one of the threads about Alsa Chrome system.  To me the $140 price doesn't seem all that outrageous considering how much a rattle can of Revell Chrome sells, and knowing that Alsa will be more durable without any extra clear coats. Like Steve mentioned in that thread, just sending the kit's parts to be "chromed" (when that service was still available) could  cost $80.  $140 doesn't seem that outrageous, considering that you will be able to do multiple kits.

     

    • Like 1
  9. 20 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    You can't fix stupid. You can just hope it removes itself from the gene pool without taking too many innocent souls with it.

    That's all well and good, but as you said, more often then not those Darwin Award Recipients also take some some innocent lives along with theirs.Or better yet, they survive the crash while others perish.  It is just not cool!

    • Like 1
  10. If you are using a "real" computer (not a phone or tablet) then I can offer a hint.  When I post URL links I first click on the chain link symbols on the top pf the message compose window.  That opens up a dialog box asking to enter the URL. I past the link into there (usually leaving the "text" field blank), and click "Insert into post" button.  I don't just past the URL link directly into the compose window.

    Like this https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/191128-can’t-paste-links/#comment-2869491

    EDIT: I wonder if you are asking why when you paste the URL to another thread in this forum into the compose window, it doesn't automatically expand into a small image of the thread?  If that is the question then I don't know why it would not do that automatically.

×
×
  • Create New...