peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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On 3/7/2024 at 2:16 PM, doorsovdoon said:
I wouldn't be surprised. I've been reading up about chrome plating for some hours now (I know little about it) though thankfully plastic chrome looks to be safe from these little Hitlers... for now. Not sure if they could, to be honest. Vehicle headlights are chrome plated plastic, we'd be driving with very dim lights if not plated. lol
Not quite. As you found out, there are different ways to "plate". The chrome electroplating process of things like vintage car bumpers requires a lot of nasty chemicals. Things like headlight buckets are likely vacuum metalized (just like it is done for plastic kit's "chrome" metal parts). The metal is usually aluminum, not chrome and no nasty chemicals are involved.
Besides, most new cars usually use some sort of projection headlights which do not have the typical reflector you would see in conventional halogen headlights.
But if chrome electroplating is banned, how will people be able to restore vintage cars? I think this planet is getting out of control as far as the environmental craziness goes.
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2 hours ago, Bainford said:
Wow!
Is this body intended to be used on a model project, or as a standalone art piece?
Model? The price seems to indicate that it is 1:1 scale.
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On 3/18/2024 at 4:06 PM, espo said:
Had a crown break while eating a sandwich at lunch today. I had broken one on the other side of my mouth a couple of weeks ago and the dentist did the impressions and sent them off for a new crown and installed a temporary crown on that side. Now I have to go get another temporary crown for the side that broke today.
I also had one of those acrylic resin temp. crowns break on my several years ago on my back molar. I just cleaned it really well in 99% IPA and glued it back together using CA glue. Then I put it back in and the temporary cement was still on the tooth stump. It held until my permanent crown arrived. Of course I was not chewing on that side.
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5 minutes ago, Beans said:
Is the purpose of the question to determine how to remove them whole and re-use them?
I don't see any way they can be removed then re-used.
Exactly. While it was not specifically mentioned in the initial post I could only assume that the reason for removing "without destroying them" for re-using.
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On 3/17/2024 at 9:34 PM, dragstk said:
Microscale's Micro Set says it is a decal remover. Never tried to use it that way, but maybe?
Yes, decals can be removed using various methods, but the OP asked specifically "without destroying them".
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1 hour ago, FoMoCo66 said:
Now I know a good idea when I hear one. And that idea sir is GREAT.
It might be a great idea, but in today's world someone would complain and kill it. After all, you can buy a gun and ammo without taking any training, so why would you need it to drive a hot car? Both guns and cars can be deadly.
It is not about being a good driver - it is about being silly macho guy, and not thinking of consequences. You know? Like begin responsible for your actions. It's just people being stupid. You can't fix stupid. Those muscle cars can be driven gently. Nobody (but someone's dumb brain) forces them to step hard on the gas pedal.
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Not that I know of. The decal film is much thinner than human hair and very fragile. If decal setting solution was also used, then the film pretty much melted into the paint.
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3 hours ago, DeanF said:
I like the idea of wiping down with isopropyl alcohol or mineral spirits, what do you use to wipe it with that won't leave lint?
Blow the lint off using compressed air. If you have a compressor make sure that oil/water trap is installed so the air is clean. Or maybe use those "blow-off" aerosol duster cans. If the lint is really stuck on, use one of those (again clean) makeup brushes while blowing the model clean.
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2 hours ago, Bainford said:
Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol. The only additive is water. 91% isopropyl alcohol is rubbing alcohol that contains 91% isopropanol and 9% water.
Not always. Some brands of rubbing alcohol also contain other (lubricating) additives for easier rub-downs. Better to just go for the bottles labeled "Isopropyl alcohol". And yes, I'm aware that (likely distilled) water is added to dilute the IPA to whatever strength it is sold at.
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I wonder if those are fisheyes? Those are often caused by traces of silicone contamination. Did the primer pull away in those spots, down to bare plastic? The body might need a wash in something stronger than Dawn. You could try 91% Isopropyl alcohol. But stay away from Rubbing Alcohol - it has additives.
I assume you will strip the primer. That process itself might be enough to wash away any contamination. I'm also wondering if there is something in your nitrile gloves causing this?
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Growing up in Poland I also build several paper models. There was actually a periodical with paper models in each issue. It was called Młody Modelarz (Young Modeler). Some larger kits took up more than one issue. I remember being impatient waiting for the next issue to complete the model. I remember building a helicopter (fairly large, probably 1:48 scale), and a WWII era destroyer. That one was split into multiple issues, and it was quite long (probably around 24"). Unfortunately both models are long gone.
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3 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Pretty cool...but I learned early on that anything that started with "hey kids!!!!!" was sure to be some abysmal piece of blankety blank that nobody over 3 would get excited over once they saw how awful it really was.
If you look at the other photos it actually looks good, but too rich for me.
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Nice, and it was from the Boston area. WBZ radio station is still around.
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47 minutes ago, ewetwo said:
Don’t know why the Mustang looked ok.
Different plastic formulations? When using paints not made to be polystyrene-safe, we always play Russian Roulette with our paint jobs.
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Very nice Eric!
I'm into N scale (1:160) model trains and I have also built few of miniature cars. These are smaller than a typical 1:25 scale V8 engine.
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2 hours ago, stavanzer said:
This whole debate makes me cringe. OOTB builds seem to have been a solution that pleases nobody except those who live to follow rules, and then enforce those same rules on others.
I think I'll avoid ever labeling a kit build "Box Stock' just to stay clear of the issue.
Not sure why the hate. Most contests have this class for modelers who simply want to build a model as it came from the kit's manufacturer, without any aftermarket items added. Some modelers just want to keep their builds simple, or they don't feel they have the skills to come up with a model will fairly compete in standard classes.
Since it is a judged class, the rules are there so someone doesn't sneak in a model with extra details added.
Here are the rules my club uses for that class:
BOX STOCK: Finishing materials such as paint, metal foil, flocking and/or aftermarket decals are allowed. No other modifications or added details are permitted except as follows: Putty may be used to fill seams and/or to correct manufacturing flaws such as sink marks. Removal of details such as door handles, chrome trim or incorrect/extraneous underbody details are also allowed. Kit instructions MUST accompany the entry.
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6 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:
Every time I've used Testors Wet Look Clear, it flashed (dried ?) in a dull - maybe semi-flat - finish. After colour sanding and polishing, it bore a nice gloss.
Interesting. Here is my model. Yellow plastic body airbrushed with Tamiya fine white primer, nail polish metallic blue, and Testors Wet Look Clear top coat. It want on smoothly and glossy. No rubbing, no polishing. Maybe it was humid when you clear coated and it "blushed"?
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I have never seen (Testors) Model Master paints attack or etch polystyrene or ABS plastic kits. Even applied without a primer. I have painted many kits over bare plastic using Testors and Model Master paints. Those paints are mild, specifically formulated for plastic compatibility. Unless of course something changed in the last few years. Still, these hobby paints are sold as such.
Are you sure it is not the primer that is etching the plastic?
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19 hours ago, 1972coronet said:
I'll grab some 99% IPA tomorrow.
That is not something you'll likely find in a supermarket of a pharmacy. They usuaklly carry 91% IPA.
Look for it in the paint thinners isle of your hardware store. Ive seen it called 99 IPA or Isopropanol 99. Will probably be about $30/Gal. The price got jacked up during the COVID pandemic and has not dropped.
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3 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
And resold for $10 for a pack of three as "scale fuel filters".
PS: Not all diodes have a "glass envelope".
PPS: Resistors have been used to represent fuel filters on model cars for decades too. Small carbon composition resistors (once very common and cheap) painted silver or another color, look close enough to aluminum-can or translucent-plastic fuel filters to pass quite nicely.
Thanks. I am well aware that not all diodes have glass envelopes - that is why I specifically selected 1N914. 1N4148 is a similar diode. I've been involved in electronics for over 45 years (both professionally as an electronics technician, and as a hobby). And I also agree that all sorts of items unrelated to plastic model car kits are used for detailing. Just recently we had a thread about this (and I also use non-modeling items for detailing my models).
Many aftermarket parts companies repackage various non-model-related items for use in modeling.
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20 minutes ago, Richard Bartrop said:
One of the companies that sold detail parts for model cars used to sell resistors as scale fuel filters
I believe they were diodes, not resistors. Diodes have glass envelope while resistors are not see-through. The small diodes actually do make good fuel filters. But yes, the point is that electronic components can be used in our hobby. Just like some use wire wrapping wire for scale ignition wires.
Here is a 1N914 diode, They can be had for few cents a piece from electronic parts distributors like Digikey or Mouser electronics.
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4 hours ago, stitchdup said:
further to my attempt using a dash can sd card in place of the memory sticks, it turns out the sd cards are the wrong format. my friend who knows more than m about this stuff has it reformatting in the correct format now. i'll update on how it goes once i have a print done.
Aren't computers fun?
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The K&S sheets were very handy but it looks like they are discontinued.
https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s1307.htm
https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s1308.htmLooking at the K&S website it appears they no longer offer any plastic for sale - just metal.
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While more sad than irked, I'm bummed out that Little Motor Kar Company has shut down. The last company that was re-plating model car parts.
But I'm also irked at myself for having bunch of parts I wanted to send out to them and procrastinating! I still prefer vacuum metalized parts than painting them with one of the several available "chrome" paints.
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How to strip Trumpeter chrome?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted · Edited by peteski
For some reason Trumpeter instead of the typical vacuum metalizing using aluminum (like most model manufacturers), actually used electroplating process to cover the plastic with relatively thick layer of metal. I don't think it is actual chrome but it will be very though to remove. There have been threads here about this in the past. Just have to find one.
EDIT: I looked and no luck. Looks like nobody found any simple or easy way to remove it.