peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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How about using Tamiya "smoke" acrylic paint?
Also companies which sell urethane resins also sell dyes for tinting resin. I have several dyes from Smooth-On.
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Yes, one of the admins (probably @Dave Ambrose ) should be able to help you out. They are busy but they should respond within few days.
If you know your user name, which part of the password reset was not "coming through"? The only thing the procedure requires is your email address and checks if you are nto a robot. Your login name is now also your email address (not the screen name). Is it possible that you no longer use the email address registered with the forum?
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But it did embed.
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I'm surprised that with all the part interchangeability car industry uses that they have specific non-interchangable parts made for such a low-run production vehicle. Any chance having those original ones rebuilt or maybe adapting more generic parts?
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15 hours ago, johnyrotten said:
There are keyless chucks available for dremel tools. No more collects to fumble with
Tried them and I find they don't run true. They're not precision enough for me.
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2 hours ago, bobss396 said:
Radio Shack used to carry spools of WW wire. I'm still using some. They had this great almost metallic blue that looks great.
When the insulation is translucent then the color looks metallic. I have similar WW wire in blue, red and white (which looks like pearl white). And no, I don't use it for ignition wires in 1:24/25 scale.
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1 hour ago, bobss396 said:
Mine wouldn't hold to US measurement, it kept reverting to metric. I found it easier to go metric than fight it..
No problem. Digital calipers have metric/imperial button on them to instantly show the measured dimension using both systems. Mine stays with the system I selected until I change it. As you mentioned, you can also keep switching between them without affecting the measurement. Basically it is a built-in unit conversion. Very handy. It is one of the most useful tools in my toolbox.
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8 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:
Maybe, then, that's where I am confused. Once I resize/resample them to 1024 (long side), when I save them, I click on options, and can slide the quality (I assume) from 100, down. I slide it until it's just below 100k, which could be anywhere. Usually, it's around 80-85, on their scale. I just assumed it was DPI, for printing, but, maybe it's just a meter of quality--or compression. I never worried about what it actually is, because I never thought I might have to try to explain it!
Yes, the dpi value stored in the image file is just a reference value for programs which open the file to tell them in what side to display or print them. Yes, it is mainly used for printing. I'm a bit puzzler that you mention startign from 100, but then you mention 100k (as in 100,000?).
If you're curious, you could check yourself if that slider is for changing the dpi value. Resize your image to 1024 pixels across and select around 300dpi, then save it as a file called test300.jpg. Then without exiting the program re-save the same file but that time select around 72dpi, and save it as test72.jpg. If you list properties of both files the size of both should be the same or close.
But it could also be for the compression setting. My graphic program allows for setting independent values for both, dpi and compression. But in my graphic editor the compression value is in a range of 0 (no compression) to 100 (highest compression which would result in smallest file size).
Anyway, if you are not really interested in all those details, forget about it.
I only chimed in because what you mentioned didn't make sense to me.
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55 minutes ago, Exotics_Builder said:
Well, it may be as stated. But, I'm looking at a photo of an LS with a similar "bauble" and it looks more like the accumulator/dryer can for the A/C system
Yes, that is what you stated but the question was not about that big silver thing but the smaller cylindrical black item (with ribbed conical top) behind and to the right of the accumulator. If you look at the initial post that part is circled (although the red circling line is very thin and hard to see).
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My vision has deteriorated over the last few years. Solution: strong illumination of my work area glasses and a headband magnifier (Optivisor with a #7 lens plate). For *REALLY* small tasks I have a stereo microscope.
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5 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Today's irk: someone who has everything in the world to be truly thankful for...doesn't have to work, has a paid-for home in a beautiful area, paid for newish nice car from an excellent manufacturer that will probably go another 200,000 miles, a substantial amount of money in the bank, overall excellent health, several nice neighbors, and a loving, smart dog...but who elects to whine incessantly to me.
An ex-wife or girlfriend? Regardless - just ignore them - maybe they'll find someone else to whine to.
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Just like with any chopping tool, there is a chance on thicker cuts that the cut will not be perpendicular to the top/bottom surfaces of the part being cut.
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2 hours ago, dodgefever said:
I just use a calculator. 🤨
Yes, and a $20 digital caliper. It is made of stainless steel and accurate down to 0.001" (resolution 0.0005"). It does metric too. Got it over 20 years ago at Harbor Freight. I couldn't model without that vital tool.
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Never heard of Amerang until now.
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26 minutes ago, Mark W said:
Just to reaffirm what others have said.
Real spark plug wire is mostly 9mm or 3/8” or .375” all the same dimension.
.010”. = 1/4” easy to remember, so .015” = 3/8”. Perfect!
Another easy dimension to remember is 1mm “ = 1 inch in 1/25th scale.
1/25 of 9mm = .36 mm
The original question was for 1:24 scale (there are lots of 1:24 models out there, probably more than 1:25 scale), but for our purposes (ignition wire diameter), this is close enough.
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3 hours ago, bobss396 said:
I have slowly realized that there are many 3D printed parts sellers who are not modelers. They merely sling parts for sale.
I thought that most designed their own parts.. wrong again. Some will give credit to the file's originator. I see many of the same parts from a variety of sellers. Some are nicely done, some are not.
One thing that irks me is distributors with too-small wire holes that are also too shallow. Try to carefully drill out them out and the part shatters.
There is also zero regard by some for attaching things like wheels and mufflers for example. For mufflers it would be convenient to be able to use a stock-size aluminum tube, or even plastic rod. Wheels are the same issue. I see hubs that are not concentric to the rest of the part.
That is so true on all counts.
There is no thought put into assembling or painting a 3D printed item. Like small model cars 1:160 scale where the entire model is printed as a single part. It is an awesome testament of a 3D printing capabilities, but how the heck do you paint the interior or install "windows"? And before you say it, I'm not a fan of "liquid windows' like Microscale Kristal Klear. Fortunately many designers are starting to realize this and are printing the body separate from chassis/interior/wheels.
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9 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:
I use a couple of different free photo editing programs. My favorite is FastStone Image Viewer. That's how I edit all my photos, posted here. I can crop them, resize them, and reduce the DPI. I resize to 1024 pixels, on the long side--in the case of portrait-oriented photos, I go 1024 pixels on the vertical. If necessary, I can reduce the DPI to 72, to keep the file size right about 100k. Irfanview is good, as well, but FastStone is a bit more versatile.
That makes no sense to me. The file size (the X-Y pixel dimensions) and the compression ratio are what determines the size of the file. DPI value just tells the program displaying them (or printing them) how to display or print them.
An image that is 1000x500 pixels in size defined as 300dpi image will display or print as 3.3" x 1.8" picture. If defined as 72dpi image it will display or print as 13.9" X 6.9" picture. The 72dpi picture will look worse because the same number of pixels are contained in the image file, but now printed or shown "magnified" or "zoomed". But the actual file size does not change depending on what the dpi setting is defined as.
If the file size of a 1024x768 photo changes depending on how you define its dpi then something makes no sense. I suspect that when you reduce the dpi the editing program resamples the number of pixels to be smaller. That is how my Corel Photo Paint works.
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3 hours ago, Zippi said:
I search locally and couldn't find what I liked so I found this wire on Amazon. I switched to this wire some time ago. This wire stays where you put it and its easy to work with.
Well to me those look way too thick. More like garden hoses than ignition wires. But we all have different standards we go by. All that counts is that you're happy with your model.
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Even standard Kynar insulated 30AWG wire wrapping wire is already oversize for 1:25 spark plug wires. The wire diameter itself is 0.010" but the total diameter with insulation, like Bob mentioned, is around 0.016-0.018". That is 0.016" X 25 = 0.4" diameter in 1:1 . Some modelers find that acceptable - I don't. You should be able to find a lot of 30AWG wire on eBay or amazon. I just looked on eBay and there is a wide range of colors available on 100' spools for about $12US each.
The silicon insulated wire you found has likely even thicker diameter insulation (I use similar wire for "real" electrical wiring).
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Yes, it is a 1:12 Imai kit. I built it several years ago. I replaced the plastic spokes in the front wheel with thin brass rod spokes.
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To me that black/white photo (and the logos on the door) looked like it was taken in the '60s in DDR (or GDR in English), but now I know it is a contemporary photo.
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36 minutes ago, Rob Hall said:
Probably cheaper to sell on FB and a much bigger audience...
Yes, cheaper but nowhere as large as the World Wide Web (everybody who is on the Internet - not just FaceBookers). I know, at this point it is a loosing battle.
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Who needs all the drama. I'm also not on any social media except for some old-school forums (like this one). I guess there is something that bugs me: more and more manufacturers only sell on FB - no websites. But that's a general irk as it doesn't just apply to hobby stuff.
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Magnetic hood prop.
in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Posted
Clever!