peteski

Actually my GF brought up this point after seeing the photo below. She has a valid point. The rich people are sitting in the back section protected from the weather, but the poor chauffeur doesn't even have roof over his head! It is not just this car - there are many examples of this type of coachwork (even represented in models). Why didn't they care about the well being of the individual the passengers in the back basically entrusted their lives to?

Actually if you set up an an automatic search, they show up fairly frequently, and often sell for less than $15-$20 (which to me is quite affordable). I don't expect to get them for their original 30-year old prices.

Model looks to have glossy finish, so I would be surprised that the decal would have silvered. From how I understand decals to work the water-soluble "glue" (mainly dextrose), is there just to hold the decal images in place and release them when it dissolves in water. Not much of it remains on the decal film once the decal is applied to the model. Heck, some modelers let the decal image float off the backing film and fish the decal out of water, then apply it to the model. Not much glue remains then. The decal film itself clings to the model surface. If that was my model, I would try to pick at the edge of the decal ans see how well adhered it is to the model. Maybe it is just sitting on the surface? if it is, I woudl pick it off the model, then apply a puddle of decal setting solution on the model, and place the decal back. That might "melt" it into the paint. But proceed with caution.

Yes, that is extremely silly! Since you are posting in the thread about that model, just reply with your praise without quoting anything, we all already know what that praise is for.

IMO, if you want "likes", go to Facebook - I'm here, and not on FB for a reason. I also participate in another forum that has "likes" and "dislikes" and calls them "respect rating". To me those are pain in he but,t and cause all sorts of friction. I hope mods will leave the forum "like-free". I also think that people who crave praise on the forum are like the "trophy whores" at model contests. When I build and post something here, it is to show what I accomplished, and hopefully give others some new ideas for building their models. I don't do it expecting oodles of "likes" or "greay model" replies. I rather see some actual comments posted on my builds.

It is too late, bit why didn't you use very fine permanent markers (like Sakura Micron, or even Sharpie)? They come in multiple colors. While they have transparent inks, green and red would look good over yellow. Sharpie markers also include gold and silver. then there are fine paint markers like Pilot.

Hey, some people are willing to spend some good money on Paul H's kits and build models. But I his models are unique creations, not some run-of-the-mill "rare" older injection molded plastic kits. Way out of my price range, but someone out there is enjoying those models.

This is what "cottage industry" looks like.

This thread was leading with the most replies in this part of the forum for many years - not just "these days", until the"once upon a time" thread has taken over that honor. In general, complaints will always exceed praises. Just our human nature. But I'm not complaining . . . oops, wrong thread.

If it is the stuff I'm thinking about, it is way too thick and stiff to make good 1:25 scale belts. Have you ever tried to curve it? It springs back to its original shape.

That is exactly what I tough too. Even ignoring the mold-separation lines, those are clunky, toyish, and thick looking parts. For example the gear-shift gate too thick. And parts which to me should be rounded, have squared off edges. And those grooved brake disks? If that was a real car, those would have been replaced! It sort of has that die-cast-with plastic parts quality. Meng makes excellent armor models, what happened here?

Since ALPS MD printers can overlay multiple coats of inks in perfect register, if the decal designer knows how to use those tricks, they could likely print the decal without visible halftoning (dot pattern). The printing process gets more complicated, but the results are excellent. But if overlay mode is not used, the size of those dots also depends on which ALPS printer model is being used. The MD5000 prints up to 190lpi in the VPhoto mode, (where IIRC, MD1000 can only do 145lpi) Laser printers are also CYMK printers - laser printed color decal will also have dots, but probably finer than what ALPS can do.

I'm puzzled. Cookies allow re-entering the site without having to login in. But as described by him, Doug has a more severe problem: He states that when he attempts a login, it fails (as if he entered wrong user name or password). He has to go through a password reset process to enter the site. That to me doesn't seem like a cookie problem.

Yes they sure had many weird and often revolutionary ideas. There were many prototypes of military hardware discovered after WWII ended. And their rocket scientists later on became the brains behind U.S. space program designing rockets. Here is another weird jet-powered prototype. Looks like something out of a Batman movie. Kits of this plane are available. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horten_Ho_229

Nice. Yes, it looks very much like the Metal Earth models. I have few of those (still unbuilt). Funny thing is that they describe these kits as "laser cut", where they clearly are photoetched. I guess "laser cut" sounds more "techie".

Just the engine? Wow! But I guess at the level of accuracy you are building it, that is not surprising.

I agree David. That is why in my first reply in this thread I mentioned that my experience is with solvent-based paints and acrylics will likely require a different cleaning technique. I'm still old-school stinky-paint user (at least with my airbrush). I use water-based paints for some brush painting and weathering.

Heh-heh-heh! Thank you! Marilyn Monroe standing over the subway grate in a pleated skirt really was the first thing that came to my mind when I saw that car's front end. Those fenders look like they've been lifted by the wind. Like it is getting ready to fly. I havenever seen that car and I'm curious to find out what it is (no, I'm not going to try to find it - I'll leave that fun task to others).

Since we usually know (or can easily find out) the 1:1 diameters of wire or hoses, all we have to do is divide by the scale of the model to arrive at the properly scaled diameter. You can do it in your head or with a calculator. For hoses I use various sizes and colors of insulated electrical wires or tubing. For scale electrical wires (wire harnesses or spark plug wires) for 1:24 or smaller scales I use the Detail Master or ProTech wires. Both brands are actually very fine insulated wire. Diameter from 0.016" to 0.007". I have not been able to find a source of that fine of a wire elsewhere, but tonearm wire (for turntables) is also quite small in diameter. Yes tonearm, like in the old record players, um, turntables. You should be able to find it on eBay. Another source of fine wire in multiple colors is the Model RR hobby. Decoder wire comes in 10 colors, and depending on brand and gauge, can be quite fine. I have a selection of ESU, ZIMO, TCS, and Digitrax brand wires. Those wires have the insulation diameter from around 0.015" - 0.025" depending on brand and gauge.

Place a piece of polyethylene (a cheap thin sandwich bag) under the glued parts. Neither the liquefied styrene, or glue will stick to it. I also do this when using CA.It also doesn't stick well to polyethylene. Wait for the glue to evaporate before peeling the sandwich bag off.

That type of self-adhesive vinyl film comes in several thicknesses, and different surface finishes. What your sign/wrap shop will have for scraps might not be the same as what Josh found (but it will still be likely usable).

Are those springs actually functional, or just for looks? You can always try https://www.modelmotorcars.com/ but they will be pricey, However so was the Pocher kit, and they specialize in Pochers.

I really don't see a need to take the nozzle apart after each painting session. The lacquer thinner right after spraying paint does excellent job of flushing the paint out. Yes, when I take the airbrush apart (about once a year) there is a very thin dark film on the internal parts. But it is so thin that there is no way it either obstructs the paint passages or flakes off during painting.

Yes, I've been doing that all along - I was just looking for some option to better organize the photos. But that is not going to happen here. No big deal. What I noticed about looking at my attachments list is that now each photo shows where it has been used - super easy to find my older threads where I used and reused the photos. Cool!

Not sure if those represent wings or a wind-lifted skirt? Cute, either way. This is what it reminds me of. But it could also be this;