peteski

Thanks Michael! I didn't realize that the gallery wasn't working. Well, because I never used it in the past. I'm also surprised that all those major updates of the forum software didn't take care of the gallery issues.

Yes, the numbers referring to future steps made much more sense, but in today's world it seems that icons are replacing any meaningful verbiage (I guess that includes numbers too?). Just look at any screen of your smart devices, or even button legends on consumer electronic devices. It is mostly (often hard to decipher) simple pictures. I was told that it was due to the global economy (same devices are sold all over the world, so verbiage is local (language), but little pictures are universal. But how universal are they when one can not figure out that they mean. And I thought that numbers would be universally understood worldwide. Maybe the graphic designer who did the new instructions was just a bit too eager to use pictorial symbols instead of numbers.

The only option I get in that flyout is "Edit Details" If I then select that, on the very bottom of the Details window there is an option to delete the image. When I click on that it seems to delete the photo, but then when I try to exit by clicking on "Save Image", The Details window comes back, and on the bottom (where the deleted image was) it shows "this field is required". My only other choice then is to quit the Details window by clicking 'X" on the upper right side. That cancels the operation and the image is still there. Seems that your moderator privileges give you more options. Go ahead then - please delete the other photo that is still there. I guess I won't be using the "album" feature since I don't have much control in my uploads. The user who uploaded the image should be able to delete it too. Plus I was hoping that the album would allow for organizing the images in sub-albums (or folders), but it is just one large container (similar to where attachments go).

Absolutely! Your sniffing secret is safe. We won't mention that "senior moment" either. That Faller plastic cement does have pleasant (at least to me) smell.

I was testing various features of this forum and I uploaded 2 photos to my Gallery. That was just a test. I wanted to delete them but I can't find any way to delete those images? Can one of the admins show me how I can delete those images?

Kickers (CA accelerators) should be universal and work on any Cyanoacrylate glues. Are you sure that the Faller glue is CA and not regular plastic cement? Smell it. Both plastic cement and CA have very distinctive and different smells. Another clue is the hypo-needle applicator. Those are not used on CA glues because they would clog really fast. I had a container of Faller glue (bought it for model RR building kits) an it was just a plastic cement.

In this part of the country rubbing alcohol has been hard to find for quite some time (months). The latest media-induced panic was paper towel shortage. They mentioned on the news that there might be paper towel shortage, so all the sheeple go out and buy all the paper towels they can find! Fortunately this panic didn't last too long - seems that paper towels are back on the shelves (but with limited availability of various brands). Denatured alcohol is also good for sanitizing. Just don't tell everybody because, it will also disappear from the store shelves.

Welcome! There is nothing wrong with your English Lin. I have seen many native Americans use bad grammar, and no punctuation. You have nothing to worry about. So now you'll have to change your technique. From dirty weathered finish, to smooth and shiny finish. Unless of course you are modeling old cars in a junk yard.

I have one of those model kits. What a strange (and portable) mini-bike. Nicely built model.

I never heard of this bike before. Gorgeous model! I went to that webpage and which the description shows 1:9 scale, the photo of the model's box shows 1:12 scale. Confusing.

While that is what it looks like, you don't really know. EBay only up-bids the price by the minimum bid increment. If you were outbid by a snipe, their bid could have been $100 more than yours, but the final bid will show up as yours plus the minimum bid increment. Or if you tried to snipe, and were outbid, the person that placed the previous higher bid could have bid $100 more than the eBay was showing as their high bid. That's how eBay works. It does proxy bidding for bidders. You don't really know the other person's actual bid was.

Not sure why modelers try all sorts of stuff as a thinner for acrylic paints. Well, car modelers are usually a cheap bunch. It is prudent to do some research and using the manufacturer's recommended thinner works the best. There are also many different formulas of "water-based" acrylic paints out there. For example Tamiya acrylic paints are not really water-based. They are closer to solvent-based paints than to water-based acrylic paints. They use alcohol as thinner, and if you use liquids such as Windex or washer fluid, they will react badly with those paints. If not using Tamiya thinner, using rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol should work well too. I always say that well informed modeler is a good modeler.

I also often use a Shell station and I just have to hit 3 buttons several times each and it mutes the annoying and loud audio. I guess they use different equipment or settings.

I use cash and avoid all these annoying problems. Also remember that in some gas stations the annoying GasStationTV ads showing on the pump's screen can be muted by repeatedly hitting the buttons at the sides of the screen. We are getting bombarded with ads from every angle!

Resin or plastic - painting technique will be the same for both materials. Well, polystyrene is also a type of a resin.

We are talking about a model car, right? It is not like you have to protect the paint from severe outdoor weather. Seriously though, most non-metallic (solid) color paints are designed to be used without clear coats. If you are happy with the finish, leave it alone. Some metallic colors dry to a flat or satin finish - those are designed to show they full sheen with a clear coat. In those cases, yes, clear coat. I usually use hobby paints and I don't think I have ever clear coated a non-metallic paint. And not that it matters much, but aren't MCM paints lacquers? Either way, if the paint is shiny enough I would leave it alone.

Wow! The text in the posts uses very little server's storage space. Now if people would down-sample their images to less than 200 kB per photo, we could still have the same amount of activity, but much less space being used up. Who really needs a 12 megapixel photo uploaded here, just to view it on a computer screen or a small smart-phone screen? It is not like we were submitting photos here for publishing in a magazine. We need to plan ahead. With increase of 7GB per month, backups will get more and more difficult. And of course we don't want to lose all the knowledge contained in the forum either. Any way to have photos resized automatically on download? Another forum I frequent does that (down to 1280 pixels across, which is plenty large for viewing), although the uploader/resizer chokes on really large photos.

Good to know - thanks for the tip.

Ah, I see what you mean now. Interesting how you were able to prevent bubbles in the important areas but not elsewhere in the moulds.

Nice model Grzegorz, but looking at my 1:1 1985 Eldorado sitting in the driveway, some of the body shapes are not quite correct. Or at least they don't look quite right in the photos. Still, it is quite a feat to scratchbuild a resin body without any scale drawings of the 1:1 car.

Yes, GMP440 posted identical posts here and in the General section. I mentioned that earlier in the thread. Mods merged them (which to me makes sense).

You sure have the skills and materials for casting model parts. The parts you are casting look really nice, but what is in the first photo. It does look like a rubber mould for some radio bezel, but it is full of bubbles. That wouldn't make a good casting.

I have a stash of the original chrome foil (I received it as a "thank you" gift/payment for giving them permission for using photos of my models for advertising), so I have not bought any more foil since. I never purchased the "new improved" version of the original foil, but looking at the replies, it is as good as the "old" original chrome. The "ultra bright" stuff is the one to avoid.

But will he actually dump his "real" airbrush for painting his models in favor of his home-made one? I somehow doubt that. As others said, the results will likely be less than optimal.

Good, because in tour earlier response you mentioned that I instead of making my drill, I would be better off getting an off-the-shelf Dremel. I figured that if I provided some more details of what I'm building, and that I already own couple modified Dremels, you would get the idea that yes, what I'm doing actually makes sense, and I'm not building it just to say that I built it.