peteski

Greg, that decal (printed in Italy) is likely made by Cartograf (one of the top decal makers in the world). Those are high quality decals. Do you think they really have cracked clear film? Do you really need to seal them?

Jello (or pudding) shots cups are usually available in supermarkets are also nice small plastic cups (with snap-on lids) that can be used as parts storage, or to hold paint or resin. These cups and lids are usually made from PET or Polypropylene, so they are resistant to solvents. Similar containers are also provided with condiments with Chinese food take-out orders.

Well, the parts are not compatible because as Trevor mentioned 1:24 scale models (and everything in them) are 4% larger than 1:25 scale models. That is assuming that the models are scaled accurately (which is often not the case). Some parts (like wheels and tires for example) could be used on both scale models and still look good, but others will look out of place. There is no hard rule about any of this.

Still, wouldn't it be useful to install an app which would allow you to edit/resize photos? It might come in handy for things other than creating a small avatar photo.

We are trying to help you Roger. We don't know what type of tablet you own. Whatever it is, do a Google search for "photo editing app for XXXXXXX tablet" where XXXXXX is the brand of your tablet. I expect you'll find some useful apps.

I should have phrased my question different: are you on a personal computer ( Windows PC or Apple Mac), or on a smart-device (phone iPad). Well, you answered my question. There are probably iPad apps to edit photos, but I'm not in the know on those. I use a good-old Windows PC, and can easily manipulate photos.

Correct, not for windshields. But polystyrene can definitely be used for vacu-forming. All the vacum-fromed kits that use white polystyrene plastic for their parts.

Roger, can't you download the photo you want from the URL to your computer, resize and upload to the forum? Or are you a smart-phone-only user?

That would be weird as the TS spray paints are specifically made for Tamiya's plastic model kits. Maybe Tamiya uses higher quality ABS plastic? But what really makes no sense to me is that it will craze plastic even with a primer base coat. After all we use primers as a barrier coat when using hot lacquers designed for 1:1 (metal) cars.

That is odd Jonathan, especially if this happens even over a a coat of primer! I was not aware of that. I guess the bottom line is to make sure check compatibility of any paint with the kit you are building.

I didn't think you could solder white metal (Zamak) castings.

You're welcome. I should have mentioned that that black ink is opaque on all the printers. So if you only need black lettering or images, those will show up properly on any color background.

Those TS spray lacquers are designed to be plastic compatible, so they can be applied to bare polystyrene. They will adhere to it extremely wheel if the plastic was cleaned well. But that goes for any paint - no paint will adhere well is the plastic was not cleaned properly. If the car body does not have any modifications and is prepped well, then I don't use primer. Only when some modifications were made, or putty used, then it makes sense to use primer first., to blend the dissimilar areas.

Nope - Alps Micro Dry printers do a superb job printing decals (including white and metallic inks). Also, unless the laser printer prints a white undercoat then your laser-printed color decals will be translucent and only look good if applied to a white color surface. Ink jet printers can also be used, but the ink is water-soluble. You need to use special decal paper and, then seal the ink with a clear lacquer to prevent water from washing it away. And the same as with laser printer applies here - if printed on clear decal paper, color decal images will be translucent (because the inks of those printers are designed to be printed on white paper for proper color rendition)

I don't know the official name for those, but like others have said, these are areas where the ejector pins will push the part out of the mold. If you look at every nub, you will see ejector mark on it. Those are used where it is not convenient to have ejector pins under the part itself. This either done on very small or thin cross-section parts that are too small to have ejector pin under them, or on clear parts where they would be marred by ejector marks. They have nothing to do with flow of the molten plastic.

Wow, that is one of my favorite all-time cars. Such beautiful sleek lines. Timeless and gorgeous! They don't design cars like that anymore. I have a 1:43 diecast. So cool to see it in a larger scale.

Flashing seems a bit thick for this task. Soda can aluminum is good, but must be straightened. I would get some cheap disposable aluminum roasting pans or cookie sheets from a dollar store (or supermarket). Then cut them up and just use the flat pieces of aluminum. To me that would be the right thickens for license plates, and it is easy to work with.

Looks like someone flipped the photo to make it a RHD car. Camaro-size car would be rather large for European sports car market. While I also find it ugly overall, it does seem to have some redeeming qualities about it.

Few posts earlier David stated that he spoke to Prior (in July 2019). That would be kind of tough if he was deceased in 2007.

Next time buy Hanes, or Fruit of the Loom.

That helps - thanks! It makes sense in the 31st Century to have an email address. Fax is so 1980s! They sure could use a revamp of their website, but probably just like RMCoM, they have more than enough business with what Web presence they already have.

Thanks for the warning. I have not really attempted any disassembly yet, but I'll be careful when I do.

I have one of those and I highly recommend it. It is 1000% nicer than the resin dash that came with the MGB that was sold by American SATCO (which I also have).

I bought the Rivera years ago, would you believe me for the wheels! I wanted to use them with the resin boat-tail Rivera kit. I have not build that kit and now I'm rethinking taking the Masterpiece Rivera apart. I'll have to take a another close look at that model.

Oops! Have to pay better attention. Here is one of yours. At less than 1500 pixels across (and file size 115kB) IMO it is still reasonable. Like I mentioned, some people post photos that are huge (sometimes couple of MB in size). That seems excessive to me. I like to crop my photos to focus on the subject, and tey to make them less than 1200 pixels across. In the above example, I would have cropped the photo to eliminate most of the background. Yes, that takes some time, but I don't mind. But then I'm not as prolific as you are.