peteski

I took a look at one of your recent photos posted. It is only 640 pixels across. IMO, that is fine for the forum (actually on the small side). No need to make them any smaller. I usually make mine 1024 pixels across (almost twice the size of yours). No need to resize yours. I think the problem is when members upload photos that are much larger like 2000, 3000, or even larger. I feel that there is no need for such high resolution to be used in forum posts viewed on a computer screen or even on small smart-phone screen. Plus, smaller photos take up less storage space on the forum, and load faster. If you don't resize yours, what camera or phone are you using to get them that small? Also, instead of using the "choose files" menu,there is even easier way. Just drag the photos from the Windows explorer window showing the photos into the area under text compose window (same area where you click "choose files"). You can hold down control key while selecting the photos in the Windows explorer, then drop them into the attach area to do multiple photos at a time. Of course if you aren't using Microsoft Windows, then the process might be different.

Didn't Italeri acquire Protar molds? So wouldn't this be the same kit as Italeri?

. . . and this type of question does pop up here fairly regularly.

I can't disagree with you. Quality product, excellent support. One of the few old American companies still manufacturing here. At least I think they are manufacturing statewide. While I have driven through Athol, I haven't been to that part of Massachusetts for some time. I wonder if they offer factory tours? When pronounced, the name of that town could be mistaken for a swear.

Thanks John! If you didn't use it, BSI accelerator would have likely made the tedious job easier and quicker. CA glue and accelerator are indispensable items on my hobby bench. I also use home-made glue applicators (which I mentioned in another thread no too long ago). The Micro Brushes are for applying the accelerator.

Time marches on, and this is called "progress". The longer you live, the more of this you see all around you. Oh yeah, toys are now made in China. Fortunately in my part of the country (New England) many of the old textile mills and shoe factories (in Manchester, NH) were converted to high end apartments and condo units.

Beautiful model! SR-71 is my favorite aircraft. I love it sexy aquatic-creature-like lines. Long time ago I built a 1:48 scale model of it. What scale is it, and who made the kit? Also, what did you use for glue?

As a bit of history, BMF was originally made for aircraft modelers for modeling bare-metal airplanes. Only later automotive modelers started using it for simulating chrome trim. Here is a quote from https://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil-company.html Bare-Metal Foil was invented in 1970 by Eldred Mason because of his desire to have a more natural finish on his model aircraft. Since that time the Bare-Metal Foil Co. has been providing both amateur and expert hobbyists with outstanding hobby products. Bare-Metal Foil is the original detailing foil used to duplicate the chrome on model cars and natural metal on model aircraft. Bare-Metal is so thin that a modeler can cover rocker panels, keyholes, door handles, and nameplates on model cars and 100% of the detail will still show right through. On model aircraft Bare-Metal Foil can be used to cover the entire model, revealing every rivet and panel line. No other product can produce a more realistic appearance. As far as using it to replicate aluminum car body, I think I would use aluminum paint instead, for the reasons others already mentioned. Another reason is that the Chrome foil is actually no aluminum, but some sort of metal alloy that has a warm hue, while the real aluminum has a cool bluish look it it. Nowadays we have a wide range of metallic aluminum paints which have a smooth homogeneous surface that looks like solid metal (no sparkly metallic particles). Alclad II paints are good example of that.

I see this mistake time and time again. The stuff we cal Future is a "floor finish", not " floor polish". There is a big difference. Polish (or wax) doesn't add any appreciable thickness to the surface being polished - it just shines it up. But Future is actually a coating which adds a layer of clear acrylic to the surface being treated.

If that was their reasoning then IMO it is kind of silly. When one buys a fret of photoetched scripts, it is to replace plastic with metal scripts. Photoetched scripts look realistic (since they are metal) and are easier to deal with (no foiling or painting the plastic script is required).

I have no problem accessing http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/Contents.htm or other parts of that site. It is really ancient. As for ordering or contact, it states: We are pleased to accept orders by post, telephone, fax or personally at shows in the UK. Payment Methods Cheque, Postal Order, Visa/Master Card (Please state card number, expiry date and last 3 digits of security code) Overseas Customers please pay by Visa/Master Card or cheques in �Sterling drawn on a UK Bank. No email address is given, so I guess one has to call, fax or snail-mail them the orders, or ask questions. That is so 20th Century.

Mike, that website is very poorly designed (likely by an amateur) and incomplete. Just add whatever items you want to buy to the cart, then go to checkout.

Same here - I couldn't do that. I'm also surprised that nobody has mentioned any of the 1:8 Pocher '30s cars. over 1,000 parts and plenty of room for improvement. Plus, it would take quite a bit of time even to build it without any modifications.

I was going through some old folders in my file cabinet and I found this: I totally forgot about it, and obviously never put it on any of my cars. I don't even remember if I got it at one of the model shows, or Norm included it with one of my orders. The tiny print shows "EST 1984", so Norm has been at this for 36 years! I hope he keeps on producing his wonderful resin cast items.

We all have our favorites as far as modeling supplies go. If I use masking tape, I only use 3M brand (not the cheap non-name brands). The tan color tape's adhesive is quite aggressive, but the blue painter's tape's adhesive is much gentler. They call it "medium". They also make tape with even gentler adhesive, but I never tried it. But since I found Washi tape (same as Tamiya but much less expensive) in my hardware store, I will likely stop using the 3M tape.

I don't bother with Frog Tape anymore. Few decades ago (when it first came out) I bought a roll because of those early ads on TV. Back then they only sold green version. To me it was just like ordinary masking tape - nothing special. Later on I found out that the secret is that they coat the very edge with some special chemical that absorbs water, swells up, and seals the edge, preventing paint bleed. But that only works for water-based paints. It was designed for latex house paints. There is no advantage when using solvent-based hobby paints - there is no water in them to be absorbed into that chemical on the edge. I still have the roll stashed somewhere in my workshop or in the basement. I went back to Tamiya, Scotch Blue, and now Washi tapes. As for those thin tapes OP was asking, I don't think those were ever made as masking tape (or sold in body shops). It was a graphic tape used by graphic artists for thin lines, before computers, when graphic layouts were still done by hand, on paper. So, just like the Chartpak or Letraset dry-transfer lettering, that thin tape became obsolete and hard to find.

No decal setting solutions I know of will make the clear film totally disappear. A clear coat applied after decals will help to hide the film.

Oven cleaner is based on Sodium Hydroxide (Lye), not ammonia. It will remove the metalization and also the clear base coat. Ammonia will not remove the base coat. The "purple" cleaners also contain Lye, so they also remove "chrome"and paint from plastic. The "chrome" is a very thin coating of aluminum, so any strong acid or base will easily "eat it off".

If the dust is stuck slightly the soft makeup brush should loosen it up, and the compressed air will then blow it off.

I would be careful with this - those markers use very strong (and stinky) solvent which I suspect will craze styrene (and especially clear styrene).

Thank you Carl!

Is it overspray where the paint dust was still partially moist when landing on the model, and it stuck to the paint, or is is just dry paint dust that just sits on the model? If it is just dry paint dust then I would use a large soft makeup brush and compressed air to clean it off. If you want to wash the models wit soap and water that will work too. If decals are sealed with clear coat, then it would be safe to get the model wet. If they are not sealed, they will likely be ok if not kept wet for too long, but no guarantees.

LOL! Thank you Jeremy.

I miss that feature too. Hopefully with all the forum software upgrades (that increase security), they the moderators will re-enable that feature someday.

Floquil/Testors ELO (Easy Lift Off) or Scalecoat Wash Away paint removers (plastic safe) should remove the ink without damaging clear plastic, but they might make it slightly hazy (that will polish out easy). Just take a snippet of a Kleenex or cheap toilet paper (it has to be smooth, not quilted or embossed) the size of the logo, moisten it with one of those paint removers, and using tweezers place it over the logo. that way the logo will be in contact with the paint remover. Let is sit for at least 30 minutes, then the logo should come off easily.