peteski

Duh! Do I feel silly now!

Stronger solvent cements for polystyrene (like Methylene Chloride, or even MEK) should work with ABS. There are also specific cements for ABS (like Plastruct's Bondene or Plastic Weld). Pipe cement is designed for vinyl (PVC) pipes, not for ABS. I would be surprised if those model parts were made from PVC.

Look at the part numbers tags. Yours are all #34, and the tags are all facing in the same direction, while his have 3-digit part numbers, and the tags in pairs face each other. It is a different parts tree.

Sad to hear of her passing. She dud have good full life. She was gorgeous in her younger years. I have a DVD set of the Avengers with all Emma Peel episodes. Those were IMO the best of the entire series. There was a good chemistry between Ms. Peel and Steed that wasn't there with his other partners.

They do look similar, but the part number tags are located in different locations on each part tree.

Thank you Steve! Yes, that '57 Chevy is a very nice Gunze Sangyo kit, in 1:32 scale. BMF rules!

1:43 is easy! I built and foiled this Testor's Beetle (metal kit) years ago. A little mode difficult was this 1:87 (H0 scale) '56 Ford Crown Vic. I believe it was a WIlliams Bros. kit. It was an interesting tiny kit. It was molded all in clear styrene (including the wheels), so I basically had to paint or foil everything that was not "glass". The body was fairly thick, so the "glass" distorts a bit, but not too bad for such a small model.

Same in Manchester, NH. Picked up 4 models @40% off! What a deal! Not that I need any more models, but I couldn't pass up the bargain. Revell Porsche Diesel Jr 108 tractor, Land Rover Series III 109, '68 VW Beetle, and AMT '59 Imperial.

Jürgen, Even if American members aren't familiar with some specific make of a car or tuck, that shouldn't stop you from posting your models here. This forum has members from all over the world, and there is no rule stating that it is limited to American vehicles only. I for one would be very interested in any model of a bus. I grew up in Poland and I have seen my share of MAN trucks and buses. As far as tour buses in USA go, I have seen several VAN HOOL buses recently.

Yes, as I understand that liquid decal film is the same stuff Microscale uses as the clear base for their own decals. It will be affected by decal setting solutions the same as any other decal.

Yes, you are basically applying a new thin clear film over the old cracked decal film with images on it. Of course, you will then have to trim each image on the sheet, since the new clear film covers the entire sheet. I suppose you could get fancy and apply the liquid clear film carefully only over each image on the sheet, but I have never tried that. I just brush-paint the liquid over the entire sheet. I use multiple coats. I think last time I did that, I used 3 coats.

I would not use Future. It is water soluble, and so is the glue on the backing paper. It is safer to spray them with a solvent-based clear lacquer. Or better yet, use Microscale Liquid Decal Film (this is actually the same film that is already on the decal sheet).

So kits like Tamiya VW Beetle or Karmann Ghia, or Ferrari F40, F50, or Enzo Ferrari go for next to nothing? How about Mercedes 300 SL? Then there are Tamiya kits that are going for much more than the original price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-6-Scale-Tamiya-HARLEY-DAVIDSON-FLSTF-FAT-BOY-16029-9800-Ultra-rare-/264847951372

You do have a point. I seem to have taken the subject line too literal.

Warming up the stripping solution also increases its potency and decreases the time it needs to work. But not to hot! When I strip paint in the winter (when my workshop is only around 64 deg. F, the stripping solution works very slowly. But if I warm it up to a summer room temparatuer (around 80 deg. F) it works much better. Of course, in the summer I dont' need to do that since the ambient temperature is warm enough.

I hope you're joking. While over $500 dollars seems quite a ridiculous amount to me, so does $15. Come on, it is a custom made, resin case, full detail kit. Even mass-produced injection-molded kits sell for quite a bit more money that $15. BTW, there is currently a built-up T-Bird model being auctioned off. It is gorgeous!

Hopefully eventually I'll be able to pick one up for less than $200. But the molds deteriorate so the early examples are likely "crisprer" than when the molds are getting worn out.

I don't agree with the title of this thread: "Quality builds showing up here now!". Just now? Really? While I have not been around since the beginning, I joined the forum 6 years ago, and there has always been a group of excellent modelers here, showing off their high quality builds. It is noting new. I'm sure the same is true going back even further.

There is a very lengthy thread about stripping paint here. Some good ides in there, and some not so good. In the several decades of stripping paint, I have found that there is no universally good paint stripper for plastics. It is the paint that makes a difference. Yes, I use Scalecoat Wash Away paint remover, but I also use Floquil (Testors now) ELO (or Easy Lift-Off) stripper. ELO one uses a chemical similar to the old DOT3 brake fluid (a type of a glycol). Yes, those two were specifically made for stripping plastic. But if you read the label, it always warns the user to check for compatibility. I also use Lye-based strippers, and alcohol based strippers. I also make my own "brew" using among other things non-acetone nail-polish removed. There used to be other plastic-safe paint strippers, (like Chameleon paint stripper), but they are no longer available. While I'm not a chemist, I think that understanding a bit a bit about the paint stripper (and other hobby chemicals) chemistries makes me a better modeler. I use whatever works best for a given task.

Thanks - those look better (thinner) than stickers.

Are those waterslide decals or peel-n-stick stickers?

I was hoping to get one of them, but it went out of my price range before I even had a chance to place a bid.

Oh man, this reminds me so much of a car I'm very familiar with, but it is not it. Probably the same size, but either more modern, or better equipped.

Yeah, that is one wild exhaust system!

IIRC, I got the idea for the eye-of-the-needle applicators years ago from a reader's hint in FineScale Magazine. I have used them ever since. I believe that Micro-Mark now sells similar glue applicators, but why buy one when I can make my own (and in different sizes). I have no problems with the applicators not holding even the water-thin CA. Eventually the end of the applicator gets clogged up with glue. I then just scrape and pick the glue out using a hobby knife with an old #11 blade. I've read that some people (who use similar applicators) burn the glue off, or stick the end in acetone for a while, but I actually enjoy picking the semi hardened glue out of the applicator. I find it satisfying for some reason. While I do put a puddle of glue on some flat disposable surface for picking it with the applicator, for the water-thin stuff I make a special holder. I take one of my small amber glass cups (upside down) and wrap a piece pf aluminum foil over it. Then with my index finger massage a dimple in the center. It is a perfect little holder for thin CA glue. Once it cakes up, I just replace the aluminum foil and make a fresh one. I got those little cups years ago from American Science & Surplus. Back in the day they were used by dentists to mix filling material or other chemicals. They come in very handy, but I don't think they are being made anymore. Here is my glue and other hobby chemicals repository. I made the stepped shelf out of clear acrylic.