peteski

Yeah, due to eBay's fee structure (freebies), there are lots of similar "deals" on eBay being listed over and over for many months with no takers. Amazon is no different. You search for something there and you'll find the same item listed for a wide range of prices. It pays to do the research.

Looking at the date of the initial post, Harry's birthday is not until November 6th, but regardless, I sure miss him in many ways. One of his models was the reason I joined this forum (I found it in a Google search, and wanted to ask him some questions about the model). Super nice guy, and very talented modeler!

Yes, I place a puddle of CA on some disposable surface (like aluminum foil or masking tape, then I dip those applicators in it, then touch them to the surface of the model where glue is to be applied. That way I have full control of where the glue goes. Unlike using the glue bottle with conical tip. If more glue is needed, I repeat the process. Thin CA glue will also wick into the glue joint. Then, if needed, while I'm still holding the glued parts, I put down the needle applicator, pick up the micro brish, dip it in the accelerator, and apply it to the glue joint, instantly setting the glue. CA is one of multiple types of adhesives I use. I have entire arsenal of glues: contact cement, liquid cement for styrene, tube glue, various epoxies, and even UV curable glue. That way I can choose the best adhesive for a particular glue joint.

While it makes wiring a model engine easier, it really doesn't look anything like a scale distributor. I guess it all depends on how accurately you want your model to look.

If I could not use CA and accelerator in my hobbies, I would quit! This stuff is extremely useful.. I always have a complement of CA (in viscosity from extra thin to gel type) and BSI brand accelerator. No worries about the possible mess when I use my home-made applicators from sewing needles and micro-brushes to apply the accelerator.

Ok thanks. So I did recall the name correctly, but attributed it to the wrong model car.

I doubt that it is actually acetate. That is old-school. Likely it is PETE, PVA, Lexan, Polystyrene, or some other similar modern clear plastic. But regardless of what the material is, since you aren't using solvent cement, the material is irrelevant. From the glues you mentioned, ti seems to me like the Formula 560 Canopy glue will likely do the trick. It is after all designed for gluing clear plastic canopy to a fuselage. So, it should hold a clear windshield to a model car body. But it might take a while to dry.

You're right - thanks! Yes, Lowell is an old city with lots of interesting architecture (including the old mill district). I'm glad that those old brick and stone buildings are well preserved and utilized. Of course, there are some not-so-nice sections too. Same goes for the neighboring Lawrence.

No photos either, but while I was driving in Lowell, MA I noticed what I thought was a late '80s or early '90s Ford Escort parked ahead. When I got closer I realized that it was actually a Mercury Tracer. I totally forgot that a re-badged Escort was called Tracer. That also reminded me that there was a re-badged version of a similar vintage Ford mustang. I think it was called Mercury Bobcat?

He did not point it out. He just spelled correctly without mentioning that it was the correct spelling. I figured that I would point it out (in a nice way). I'm beginning to be sorry that I was trying to be helpful. I was not trying to be a wise guy, or an a-hole - just pointing out the mistake. Sorry! I think that if someone is to chew me out, it should be Carl (and he hasn't been back yet).

That's not the point. Like your mom, why not show someone the proper spelling of the name? If Carl only did that once, I would think it was a typo, but he misspelled it twice, so why not let him know the correct spelling? Is that wrong?

And BTW, the name is

Sure, but it is silly to have concurrent active threads on the same exact topic. Yes, I know you said that in jest.

Isn't' this topic currently discussed in the Q & A section of the forum?

And CA glue accelerator comes in really handy for this type of a problem. I highly recommend the BSI brand. I never spray it! Always use a very small applicator (Microbrush) to dab it onto the joint.

Scott, the way you phrased your post: "There is a lot of discussion about this elsewhere in the forum." made it seem that there were currently other similar discussions about Modelhaus taking place on this forum, and that you were aware of them, but didn't bother to link to them. That is why I was disappointed when I asked you to point me to those ongoing discussions, and you simply instructed me to search the forum. I think that if you phrased your post slightly differently, like: "There were a lot of discussions about this elsewhere in the forum." that would not have evoked the response I had to your post. No harm done - just a slight misunderstanding.

While it is a clever idea, those bottles are usually made from Polypropylene. How well does paint stick to it?

Hey Ken, Just about the time you joined this forum there was an active discussion about stashes. You missed it! Here it is:

I have subscribed to FSM for over 30 years. Yes, not much of a civilian vehicles coverage, but there are plenty of useful tips and techniques. I have written to the multiple FSM editors (over the years) asking for more civilian vehicle coverage (including civilian aircraft and ships), and even SciFi, and the answer is always "we publish what is provided to us by the authors". Well, that is a vicious circle. Unless they reach out to authors who would write the articles on the topics I requested, they will not get any such articles. Still, I find it useful. It is interesting to see all those different types of models.

The older variable-speed Dremel tool (model 395) internally use a circuit similar to a dimmer switch to control the speed, but it is designed for inductive loads. The motor inside that tool is an inductive load. Standard dimmer switches are designed for incandescent light bulbs. Those are resistive loads. I woudl not recommend using a standard dimmer switch for a Dremel. There are variable speed controllers designed for inductive loads. For example a speed controller for a router will likely do the trick (router motor is also an inductive load). Here is one for 18 bucks: https://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html Or, Google for router speed controller for more choices.

Looks good Bill. One suggestion I have is to make sure the striations in the headlight lenses should be properly aligned (vertical/horizontal orientation). This is on of those small details that make a model look more realistic. And next time, post your finished model in the "Under Glass" section, not in Q & A.

I never seen any Salvions models. Well then, do the rough removal with a file, then when you are almost done, move to sandpapers. That should give you smooth enough finish to be able to buffed out.

I would think that a file is a bit too aggressive, and will leave gouges in the tire. I use multiple grades of sandpaper for removing mold seam "flash" from rubber and vinyl tires, and for scuffing the tread. Depending on how much material is to be removed (and what type of surface finish I'm looking for) I might start with 120 grit, then 220, 330, and sometimes 400. That leaves the tire fairly smooth and it can be buffed with a piece of cloth.

Ah, so mobile version is that different from a desktop version? When I look at the forum, I only see the newest threads on the first page of each section. EDIT: Never mind. This section only has one page of threads listed and yes, the ones on the bottom are from 2007! WOW! I guess I usually look at new posts.

Yes, I saw multiple cans on the shelf In July. I suspect people do not think to look in the paint thinners isle for Isopropyl Alcohol. I didn't buy any as I already have 2 gallons stored away. I usually buy it when I get a $5 or $10 discount coupon from my Ace Hardware store.