peteski

What you show is *NOT* a highlighter - it is a permanent marker. The solvent in can craze the clear plastic lenses are made of. I believe that Ace was mentioning a water-based hi-lighter marker. I still prefer Tamiya transparent yellow paint/

Most kit "chrome" parts are actually vacuum metalized using very thin layer of aluminum. That is easily removed using the methods mentioned earlier. But if a thicker layer of metal is electroplated onto the plastic (yes, plastic can be electroplated, then this becomes a problem when tryign to strip it or remove some of it for beter glue bond. If it is a real chromium, it is resistant to acids or bases and will likely not get stripped by Lye (Easy-Off cleaner, "purple pond"), bleach, or other household chemicals. As mentioned, Trumpeter used this type of "chroming" on some of their kits, and it was impossible to strip by anything but mechanical means (scraping it off, and that was a pain too).

Phosphoric Acid is the chemical in Coca-Cola which can attack metal, or organic substances like meat. Sure it can remove the "chrome" from plastic kit parts, remove rust from steel, or even dissolve a piece of steak. But that demonstration and the entire experiment is silly. The Hydrochloric Acid in you stomach (which plays role in digestion of the food your eat) is more concentrated that the acid in Coca-Cola. No need to be alarmed or afraid of drinking Coca-Cola because it "dissolves meat" .

There was a recent thread about using dryer sheets to represent inner surface of fiberglass panels. That's what your carpet looks like to me. Why reinvent the proverbial wheel when either flocking or embossing powders produce super-realistic results? Plus I suspect that dryer sheet method is more labor-intensive, and messier to deal with than the other methods I mentioned.

I still have a decent stash of Floquil paints. When RPM announced that they were discontinued, black paint sold out almost immediately. I remember scalpers on eBay wanting $20 per bottle!

Here is a tiny brass model painted with Scalecoat I gloss black.

You're welcome Snake! They come in 1 and 2oz. bottles which is larger than Model Master bottles.

Are those regular machine screws or self-tapping, or sheet-metal type screws? My hardware store has screws down to 0-80 size. I have some down to 0000-160 size. In your case the next size would probably be 2-56. Those should be available in hobby shops. Are you sure those screws aren't metric? Usually Chinese-made products use metric sizes. https://www.microfasteners.com/ carries wide range of screws.

Yes, for styrene models the "II" (or "2") is the right paint to use. But even the original Scalecoat is nowhere as hot as some automotive paints we use. Scalecoat paints are enamels, and Scalecoat II even has a smell similar to the original Testors PLA or Pactra enamels in the little bottles. I usually use the dedicated Scalecoat II thinner, but lacquer thinner will work too. They sell spray cans too, but I never tried those.

That is correct - it is geared towards model RR hobby (just like a Floquil was). Scalecoat has been around for many decades, and still going strong. Few years ago, it changed hands, but remained an independent manufacturer. One of my hobbies is model RR, so I'm familiar with paints geared towards model RR. But paint is paint - regardless of what the label says. We often use craft paints, so why not model RR colors. Plus, black is black. Those paints can be ordered directly from the manufacturer (they will also be freshest that way). https://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/

Scalecoat II Loco Black has a similar sheen and it is a great paint which should be available for years to come (unless RPM buys them out too).

Very interesting. Thanks for doing the research. Those rules are totally different than in Mass. or New Hampshire. Sounds like something in TX really eats up license plates if they want to replace them this often. In Mass. I can request duplicate (new) plates at any time, but if I don't the DMV does not ever replace them automatically. Replacement plates have the same number as original, and they don't cost much. Vanity plates are also expensive here - about $100/year. Anyway, back to the topic: maybe you should have modeled your friend's car in its weathered condition.

Hey Bart, so it's you here too? Nice! Plates in TX change every 7 years?! That's nuts! Just when you start remembering your license plate number, they stick you with a new one? Weird! Are there vanity plates available in TX? For 7 years only?

Nice job Bart (both the model, and the 1:1 CAR)! If you were building it as a replica, you could have also replicated the 1:1 license plates.

I'm glad to know that I'm not alone with too many projects on my plate. I need one of those Round-Tuits.

All it takes is one a-hole to spoil the fun.

Now that's silly (of them)! Bunch of stuck-up twits!

It is fun to learn differences between UK and American English. Two countries separated by a common language.

I tried using sunlight to harden the resin and it went better than I hoped for. I put a puddle of the resin about a size of a quarter on a piece of aluminum foil and left it out on a hot sunny day. I forgot about it, so it was exposed for few hours. Not only the resin fully hardened on the surface (with a glass-smooth finish), it also set much harder than when using the UV LED. It is is quite stiff and cant be dented or gouged with a fingernail (like the UV-LED-cured resin). It is probably harder than polystyrene. I'll have to see if the gas blanket works too, but now that I know that sun sets the resin hard, I think I'll be using it (or find another source of UV light, more compatible with the resin than the UV LED that comes with Bondic, or the UV flashlight I found. The 365nm light source sounds like it might work as well as sunlight.

Yeah, that's a good idea. Would make it easier to leaf through the packages. Now I just have to get started on making the rack (I bought the materials few years back).

I like that!

Gone off? What, did it just get up, walked away, and left your house? I have never heard this phrase in USA. Probably a Scottish dialect. I like it!

Speaking of grammar, I really dislike when people use the verb "ask" instead of "question" or "request". As in "The ask is . . .", or "What is the ask?" . That's just ugly!

I have not made my organizer yet, but I gathered all the materials. My idea is to use rectangular PVC gutter downspout pipe. I will cut it into 9" pieces and glue them together into an array. Then I'll make a base for them. Those downspout pipes have perfect dimensions to hold the evergreen strip styrene bags. Each tube will hold multiple bags. I can then leaf through them to find what I need.

Yeah, the Revell 1:6 scale version I built seems more accurate (but it has none of the inner parts). And I still needed to add bunch of details to it.