peteski

I jus posted my setup to show a curved backdrop. It is not very large and sits on a piece of wood, so I can move it easily. As you can see, I use my regular workbench magnifier fluprescent lamp as the light source (I swing it fromo my workbench to the photo stage for takign pictures. The tripod is needed because I'm using that single 30W fluorescent magnifier light as a light source, and my 15-year-old Nikon camera needs long exposures (at the smallest aperture). Often a second or longer. I can't hold the camera steady that long. That camera takes awesome macro photos, and I have no smart phone with sensitive camera, it is the only choice I have. It is really not that fancy.

That is what I use, for in-progress and for beauty shots. This is my in-progress setup. For beauty shots use larger sheets and different lighting setup. I use flat aluminum bars from Home Depot, which I curved to hold the background (a Mi-Teintes sheet from Michael's). I have multiple colors, but I usually use the one shown in the photo.

Tried it once, years ago (on a recommendation for a modeling forum). It left lots of adhesive residue after I removed it. I tossed the roll in the trash - never again. I use Parafilm.

Ah, one of those crankshaft pulley engine mounts.

He only made 4 posts - I looked at them and in one the text is in non-English characters. I suspect that this is the one to be deleted (we don't have many members here who can read that post).

While "the Complete Future" web-page is a bit dated, I figured it was better than nothing.

Cool! Yes, I had some fun back in those days (and my share of speeding tickets). Back then cops were older than me. Now, I'm the old guy and cops are all "young kids". I build and installed a computer in mine. One of its features were Night Rider style scanning lights behind the grille (if you look at the photo in my earlier post, you can barely see 5 lenses behind the grille). They were configured to scan back and forth like the ones in the Night Rider car (except they were white, not red).

That's right Gary, I'm from the other "rigth" coast. I learned something new today.

"The complete Future" website I referenced 18 posts ago shows some possible Future alternatives in countries outside USA. Here is the link again : http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Very nice model, but '70s style!? I don't recall seeing any slammed low-riders in the '70s. Back then the usual customization was to jack up the rear axle and put some big rubber on the rims. I had a '76 Camaro and that's what I did back then (well, in the '80s in my case). Louvers on the back window as also a popular mod.

But this worn brake rotor (and pads) should have been caught and replaced probably 3 inspections ago (either by you or the official inspector). I doubt that rotor got this thin in one year. I have never seen one so badly worn and rusted on an actively driven car. It is also worin unevenly so it likely means that the caliper is not "floating"properly and the inner pad is constantly dragging on the rotor (also decreasing your gas mileage).

I have the original Aoshima MGB (urethane bumper) kit which was distributed by American SATCO. It has both the steel bumper and urethane bumper parts. It has wire wheels (on the same chrome parts tree where the bumpers and grille are), and photoetched emblems. It also includes a resin-cast LHD dash, but it is rather a poor quality casting. But at the time this kit was sold, RMCoM (replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland) also produced a LHD dash casting for this model. That casting (like all RMCoM products) is vastly superior to the American SATCO resin dashboard. I also have this dash. It was cast from a pattern by Dave Toups, part # RM-95 and its price was $4.95. I don't know if RMC0M still sells that part, or if they still have the molds and would be willing to make another batch.

If on bare plastic, then Snake's method works well (under warm water scrape with a fingernail, or even a stiff bristle brush). Also, any of the decal setting solutions will soften the clear film without attackign plastic. Masking or Scotch tape should also work, and since there is no paint there, no worries about lifting the paint with the decal. Waterslide decal is simply thin plastic film, which clings to the surface it is applied to. While there will be some water-soluble glue under it, the glue itself is not the main thing that holds the decal on the surface. If I was going to do this, I would first use the masking tape technique. Then, if some film is still left on the model, I would use the warm water and scraping technique. If that still doesn't get it all off, I would use the decal setting solution technique. At this point, the decal should be completely removed. But if some decal is still remaining, I have an ace up my sleeve: I would rub the remaining film with a paper towel or a rag moistened with some 99% IPA (Isopropyl alcohol). 91%will likely work too. And alcohol should not affect styrene.

Good idea! You might want to contact some local sign makers, or car-wrap companies. They print stickers on vinyl film and might be interested in making few hundred for you (maybe even for free, or reduced cost for your cause). Of course it will be even less expensive if you design the artwork and all they have to do is print and cut them for you. For designing artwork I use Corel Draw (similar to Adobe Illustrator), and there is a freeware version of this type of software. It is called inkscape.

If in the past you never looked into the "Big Boys" section, you would have missed it. Now that moderators merged large scale model section into this general WIP section, it exposed it to the general population of the forum. Personally I preferred to keep "big boys" in a separate section, it is what it is.

If Cycolac is affected (dissolved) by MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), then Methylene Chloride will likely work even better.

Cool! So they just adds to the arsenal of out plastic polishes, as most modelers are using the NOVUS line of plastic polishes. And of course, to further increase clarity, some dip the plastic "glass" in "Future" floor finish (or whatever the new marketing name is).

There were plenty of inline-8 engines early in the 20th Century (in the '30s). They had single exhaust (and often the intake) manifold. I don't see why this could not be done on a inline-8 made up from 2 4-culinder engines. You just have to couple the crankshafts in such a way that only one exhaust cycle is taking place at any give time. I think that is one of the basic design criteria anyway (especially if the new engine has a single distributor, this will occur by default).

I have never worked with Cyclolac, but it doesn't seem to be a hard-to-glue plastic like polypropylene (2-piece tires), or other slippery plastic. In my experience super-glue (CA) is preferred for dissimilar material like those 2 you mentioned. Epoxy should also work. You can always test the bond. In a non-conspicuous area (maybe inside under the trunk lid of one kit, using CA or epoxy, glue in a small piece of the other material, then after it hardens (make sure to wait ample time) test the bond strength. Make sure to make the surfaces clean and grease-free. I Use Naphtha for cleaning, but 91% isopropyl alcohol works too. You might even roughen the glued surfaces with some sandpaper before applying the glue.

To continue the OT diversion, I'm not sure what is so wrong or annoying about it. Nobody forced anybody to watch the video. I didn't. Back when Joe posted that, he simply stated (for the benefit of people who were getting antsy about when the kit will be finally released) that the state where Atlantis is located is in a state of lock-down (non-essential companies are shut down), so the kit release will be delayed. He also augmented his statement with a "please stand by" image which just happens to be a silly video. Is that really so bad? It just meant to be patient - the kit will eventually be released. Interpreting that post from Joe was not rocket science. And the good news to everybody waiting for the kit is that the kit was finally released. Atlantis is back in business!

Well, it all depends on how fast you want the glue to set. I prefer fast-setting CAs for most of my modeling.

I have few 1:43 scale models (metal and resin), even including the camping (station wagon) version.

Thanks! I'll have to sharpen my skills on a spare windshield. Good thing is that those Tamya paints can easily be removed with alcohol, so I can keep practicing, and practicing and . . .

What about me Michael?! I was probably one of the first respondents. I remember Wartburgs quite well from the time when I lived in Poland in the '60s and '70s. I always thought they were quite pleasant looking cars.

That body looks great. I always hoped that someone would come out with a nice rendition of that MGB body style. I find the coupe quite elegant (maybe even more so than the convertible).