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peteski

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Everything posted by peteski

  1. Are you looking for the actual model kit, just the tires, or just the wheels? American SATCO sold tire sets with big/little set of Pirelli tires. Those are very nice solid rubber tires. While I don't recall specifics, some Tamiya model cars have different size tires for the front and rear.
  2. It looks like a nice color. Reminds me of the dark cherry color used on the '90s Impala SS. But while it is a bit hard to accurately judge it on a spoon, the metallic flakes seem a bit large for 1:24 or smaller scales. That is a trait that most Testors automotive metallic paints share - the metallic flakes are out of scale. They look acceptable when viewed in-person, but they look weird in model photos.
  3. Very nice! I have built both the Vette, and the Cobra - both are wonderful kits. I also was disappointed that more of these were not produced.
  4. Another Jean-Philippe Cadillac! Nice!
  5. I'm not familiar with those specific examples, but in general, Testors metallic or pearl model paints have flakes that are way out of scale (too large). Pearl-Ex powder is finer.
  6. We have another thread for that.
  7. Maybe it was the other way around: designers of those other cars each took a single styling queue from this car.
  8. With that tiny "hatch" for a hood (or a bonnet for our British friends) that thing must have hamsters for an engine!
  9. Excellent! The tires you are using now look much better!
  10. Covered wheels are nothing new - remember the Nash "bathtub" cars from the late '40s? Of course there were custom cars from earlier era which had fully covered wheels too. Nash was a standard production car.
  11. While not *THAT* old, here are couple that are around 35 years old.
  12. BTW guys - I have no idea - I was just having some fun with my imagination.
  13. That is one unusual vehicle, both aesthetically, and mechanically.
  14. Those *ARE* pinstripes. Actually this car has hydraulic lifts built in (like RVs have, but longer), plus the suspension is also on hydraulics, so while the car is raised up, it and the wheels wheels can drop down. Slick, huh? They spared no expense!
  15. And a all that while a microscopic virus is wrecking havoc on Earth with no cure in sight! It sure is an interesting world we live in.
  16. Don't be afraid - just think of each of the model's subassemblies as a separate model by itself. It is not "work" - it is a pleasant (but sometimes frustrating) task. If you consider model building as "work" then I think you might want to get another hobby. Hobby should be relaxing, and give you pleasure most of the time. Especially when looking at the completed model. As for airbrush cleaning, it is really *NOT THAT TOUGH*! Don't be lazy. I posted a link to my cleaning method - it takes less time to clean my airbrush (between colors or between models) than it will take you to read my description. Don't be lazy - most good modelers are fastidious. Again, "clean" does not mean full disassembly of the airbrush - just running some lacquer thinned through few times. I do it every time. But I always use solvent-based (not water-based) paints - those are easier to deal with.
  17. I not meaning to cheeky, but this thread (with over 240 messages) has answers to those questions. You might want to consider reading through the messages (or at least skimming through them to find your answers.). There is also similar thread about chemicals for stripping paint from plastic models (this one has over 500 posts in it). Again, skimming over those posts will answer your questions. These threads are made "sticky" on purpose (so you can find answers to questions that have been frequently asked). I don't just use straight sodium hydroxide for paint or "chrome" stripping. I use products which contain sodium hydroxide (like I already mentioned: Castro Super Clean, generic "puprple power", Original Easy Off Oven Cleaner). Oven cleaner is a spray, so I only use it once. But the other liquids can be reused multiple times until they are too weak to be useful. Also worth mentioning is that the temperature of the stripping liquid plays a role in how well it works. Cold makes it work slower, and warm makes it work faster. You don't want to make it hot, but warm works really well (probably around 30 deg C). Again, at leas skimming through this and the paint stripping thread will give you lots of useful information.
  18. YELLOW?! Isn't this thread about achieving shiny chrome finish? Plus, nobody said that the yellow car was painted with Molotow yellow.
  19. I'm not a truck guy and I agree - I see the same thing. Truck topics get drowned out by all that the silly chatter in the General section. It is really too bad. I used to visit the Truck section in the old forum, just to see what was going on. The traffic there was light, but it was interesting.
  20. Looks like a fine model, and you did a great job building it Bruce! Reminds me of a Knox Fire Engine model from the same era I built several years ago. Mine is a bit smaller scale. I hope you don't mind me posting a photo.
  21. Um, isn't that car just for show? Nobody actually sits in those seats to drive that thing. At least I hope not.
  22. What I was saying by "addressed by moderators" meant that they should chime in on this thread and tell us what options (if any) are available. But as I said, I think mods are probably busy still reshuffling the forum's contents. Hopefully the issue with editing posts will be addressed in the future.
  23. Actually, I like those stock rims on the blacked out Riviera - they add a little visual contrast and interest. They look new and clean, so I hope he keeps them. I did something similar on my Camaro in the '80s. I chose a complete black/white theme, but the aluminum Centerline wheels, and custom chrome grille gave the car just a little more visual interest.
  24. If foil is not an option (why?), and Molotow is not an option then the next best (and cheap) solution would be the old fashion Testors 'chrome' paint in the little square glass bottles. It looks decent, but never really fully hardens. But still, generations of modelers used it for chrome trim for decades. I don't know what else to say. You are limiting yourself quite severely.
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