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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. 5 hours ago, martinfan5 said:

    Not really a terrible idea, saves a ton on paper,  and money,  make instruction available as a PDF  on their website ,  I would be get behind that,  people could print off any pages they may want.  I say bring it on.

     A lot tech stuff no longer includes the old user manual, if you want or need it, you visit the company website and get the file yourself, I am not saying I always agree with it or like it, but so far, I have not noticed a difference in my life by the switch.

    Doesn't Revell DE already have a whole load of instructions in PDF format available for downloads on their website?

  2. 2 hours ago, Pete J. said:

    If you click on his name and select other items, then in the left margin you can go down and select Sold items you can see what he sells.  What is astonishing to me is that he has over 9000 positive feedbacks and not a single negative or neutral one.  Something strange it going on here. 

    Why do you think that?  The items he sells are clearly shown in photographs and described accurately - he is not hiding anything.  It seems that some buyers just go for "his" type of models.There are a lot of strange people in this world (even including us). :)

    Too bad that eBay no longer allows members to view other member's profiles.  We could look at his buyer's profiles to see what kind of things they buy besides junky models.

  3. That is so cool!  Very creative!  All it needs now (for that true Frankenstein feel) is a Jacob's Ladder in the back of it. :D

     

    One thing that looks a bit off to me is the clock housing. The clock face is perfect, but that square housing looks too modern and too pristine to me.  Some sort of antique round housing would fit the design better.  Still, I like the entire concept.

    8%2527%2527+Round+Metal+Porthole+Clock.j

  4. On 4/26/2018 at 11:26 PM, Ro3bert said:

    So, Bill a household vacuum cleaner has enough power to evacuate a small former? I thought it would take a vacuum pump. Maybe I've kept that item for no reason, oh, well I will keep your idea on the back burner for a while.

    Vacu-forming does not need high vacuum, but it needs a vacuum pump with fairly high cfm rating.  When the hot softened plastic hits the mold, it needs to be sucked down over the mold in less than 1 second. That is because the thin plastic sheet cools down and hardens very rapidly. Typical vacuum pumps will not be able to evacuate all the air trapped under the sheet of plastic in such a short time. Most small vacu-formers use a vacuum cleaner  type of motor/impeller to get the air evacuated fast.

  5. There are many modelers out there and we all have different standards. What passes for a braided hose for one modeler will not be satisfactory to another modeler.

    I agree that the material shown in the beginning of this thread looks nothing like braided hose. It looks like hose someone wrapped in aluminum foil.  There is no braid pattern on it. That is my opinion.  In my experience the Pro-Tech braided scale hoses are the best representation of the real thing.  And I'm lucky enough to over the years  have accumulated a large range of detailing parts (not to mention a good stash of plastic kits), so when I need some item for the car I'm building I usually have it in my workshop, so no ordering and and then waiting for the item to arrive. And even if I do not have some item, I don't mind waiting few days (nowadays we no longer have to wait 4-6 weeks for mail order delivery). :)  It is not like I'm engaged in a speed-building competition.

  6. 2 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

    Does the Duplicolor clear come off with isopropyl alcohol? I'm looking for a good shiny clear that will stand up to alcohol (which I use to clean off foil residue and other things). 

    Unless most paints types are not fully cured, their surface might be affected by high strength alcohols.  As an alternative you might want to try Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or VM&P Naphtha from a hardware store).  It works really well for removing the BMF type of adhesive.

  7. 9 hours ago, Bernard Kron said:

    I'm highly allergic to super-glue and can't use it at all. Like Nick (High Octane), I use 5-minute epoxy for any non-styrene parts. In fact I also use it for styrene when I want a non-solvent joint or where I want to avoid marring the surface (like for windows or on painted surfaces). When it comes to final assembly I mainly use epopxy, in fact. But I have a question for you epoxy users. The one thing I miss about superglue is the fast,  near--instant bond using a tiny amount of adhesive. What techniques have you epoxy users developed to substitute for this?

    There are no instant-epoxies (that is why I love using CA glues). But your well-stocked hardware store should carry 2-minute epoxy.  That is the fastest-setting epoxy I have ever encountered.

  8. 18 minutes ago, Greg Wann said:

    Hi Peteski, I have never thought about spraying a mold release on a master.  We, or actually Mike, Cleans up a first generation casting to make improvements or create yet another version as he did with the Fox body LX and Hatchback variations.  As far as explaining the process, I am pretty shocked that there is little documentation on this process, at least I am not aware of any.  There should be a section for this, but Once you have seen one project you have seen many.  

    Thanks Greg!  As far as the documentation of this process goes, I suspect that very few model builders venture into resin casting. I have found a book about casting at Micro-Mark, but it doesn't have as detailed process documentation that you provided. Plus, every caster seems to have slightly different technique.  Basics are the same, but they do some things differently.  I'm also a curious individual who never stops learning about stuff - you just never know when you'll need certain skill or technique.  I also love to watch "How's it Made" TV show.

    As far as mold release on the master, why not?  It is like resin casting in reverse.  You start with the item (master body) and you pour (and later pull off) the RTV rubber around it.

  9.  Greg, I love the way you are documenting and explaining the process.  Going back to where you were making the 1st part of the body mold, you said that the RTV will have a death grip on the master.  Why couldn't you spray mold release of the master?

    I assume that the body molds will only produce a limited number of good castings.  Do you reuse the original body master (the one which got damaged when demolding) and make another RTV mold, or do you use the 1st generation castings as masters for making additional molds (for a larger production run)?

  10. On 4/14/2018 at 8:06 AM, Renegade said:

    So you are saying to use Tamiya bottle paints without thinner straight through an airbrush?

    Um, I think this needs to be clarified. In USA, Tamiya Spray cans (TS) are lacquers which use mild (usually styrene-safe) organic solvent (they have very strong odor).  Then there are Tamiya brushable paints which come in small glass jars. Those are what hobbyists call "acrylics" - they are much thicker than the spray paint and they seem to use isopropyl alcohol as solvent. Those are designed to be brushed out-of-the-bottle, and should be thinned for airbrushing. The glass bottle paints are totally different than the spray can paints.

  11. I would prime it and then once all the flaws are gone, polish the primer.  I say that because whenever you join pieces of plastic (especially pieces of different plastic, and then a layer of glue), even if you polish out the joint, there will likely be some sort of flaw at the joint line. Primer will fill that flaw and also will create a uniform surface for plating. If primer brings out the flaws, sand and re-prime until flaws are gone, the polish.

  12. On 4/12/2018 at 3:27 PM, Oldcarfan27 said:

    I still have that exact set from my childhood! It was cool at first - being able to change lanes. But it didn't stay in that lane, especially in the turns. G force automatically pulled it to the outside lane. And a lot of times the didn't quite make it back to the lane it was supposed to be in and would get stuck in the middle of the road and get hit by the other cars. Then you'd have to stop, get up and go fix it. That got old real quick!

    The box made it look exciting, though.

    I used to like setting up obstacles like cones, barrels and ramps and go to town. That was fun!

    I had the set with a figure-eigth track (and a single-lane bridge at the crossing to avoid a collision).  My experience was the same as yours, but it was still fun. Friend of mine got the track which came trucks and an obstacle car and we joined both tracks together. I think his track had either a gauntlet or a 180 degree curve where each lane had a different length. We had a blast.

  13. 2 hours ago, Greg Wann said:

    Yes, I am aware of that process and terminology.  The equipment is really expensive.  This seems much cheaper.

    But "real" plating of plastic parts is very modeler unfriendly.  The plated layer of metal can't be easily scraped for good glue joints (much less fully removed).  Trumpeter issued a kit or two with that kind of plated parts and everybody hated it.  Electroplating also uses all sorts of nasty chemicals (which are dangerous and hard to dispose of).   Professional resin casters (like Modelhaus and others) send their resin parts out to be vacuum metalized. It doesn't seem to be a big problem. And it is much friendlier to the modelers (and it looks good too).

  14. 8 hours ago, High octane said:

    I build models with as few tools as I can. I know builders who have 7 Exacto knives, a dehydrator that he never used, three or four pin vises, three or four air-brushes,etc. What's the sense in having all those tools? I don't need to be "Toolman Tim." In the 60's we had very few tools and aftermarket parts and we did just fine building models.

    Good for you!  But this is not about tools - it is about preventing the small parts falling down into the "floor abyss" or being eaten by the "carpet monster".  You know, those tiny parts you accidental drop on the floor, never to be found again.

  15. My neighbor made me an apron (I provided the fabric) with a strip of Velcro sewn onto the bottom edge. I have the other part of (self-adhesive) Velcro stuck under my workbench. Works like a charm, except when sometimes I decide not to wear it while working and then I almost always drop something on the floor! Still haven't learned to make sure to always wear it!

    Jewelers/watch-makers have been using this type of apron for many, many years. The beard thing looks usable, but to me it is too tight around the neck to be comfortable for long periods of time.  Aprons have much looser fit around the neck.

  16. 4 hours ago, Art Anderson said:

    Peter. the Testors/Modelmaster units are polyethylene--I've used them for years now, with good results.

    Art

    Now I'm confused.  Sure the hobby ones are safe since they are designed to work with those hobby paints. But I thought that we were discussing turkey basters.  Those are the ones I've seen where some not made from polyethylene.

  17. On 4/4/2018 at 11:28 AM, Greg Wann said:

    The photo is a bit grainy.  These two bright light colored dots are the vents filled with resin.  They are close enough to the part to be effective and not be directly connected to the part.  I think this is much nicer than the typical sprue attachment points in model kits.  I think it is a advantage.  Some parts on sprues are as small as the sprue itself.

    Now I understand!  Thanks!  Learning more tricks and techniques . . .

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