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Posts posted by peteski

  1. On 4/8/2018 at 3:53 PM, Art Anderson said:

    A cheap polyethylene "turkey baster"  works great, as do the "squeeze bulb" droppers from Testors.


    And make sure it is polyethylene (the slightly milky, soft, waxy looking plastic).  I've seen basters made from crystal clear plastic (either acrylic or polystyrene). Those will be attacked by strong solvents in paints. Unless of course the paint is water-based.

  2. On 4/4/2018 at 9:37 PM, Mahogany Rush said:

    Anyone try the plasti-dip for masking yet? I need to darken the back fenders and masking the curve if tough plus it bleeds a bit. The car is all painted, so I want to paint the fender and surrounding area with the PDip, then xacto the fender line and peel that off. Then paint the fender, then remove the surrounding PDip. Make sense? Will it work?

    I don't think that is a good idea.  Plasti-Dip uses solvents similar to what is used as solvents in model  paints.  If you apply it over paint it might start attacking/dissolving the paint.

  3. On 4/8/2018 at 7:52 PM, aurfalien said:

    I forgot to mention to then soak it in water for a good bit.

    BTW this is meant to be a helpful tip.  No need to be critical.

    Lets think about this for a bit:  Molotow is alcohol-solvent-based.  The tip is made from some sort of fiber.  If the tip is clogged up with dry paint why not soak it in a solvent. How about the same solvent used in the paint itself (alcohol). SO soak it in either 99% isopropyl alcohol or maybe in denatured alcohol.  Or if that fails, lacquer thinner or acetone will do a good job of dissolving the dried up paint.  No need to use SuperClean.  All the liquids I mentioned will dry with no residue, and you will be able to use the tip again without rinsing the tip  in water.

  4. 2 hours ago, Greg Wann said:

    OK, I see what you are asking.  To me, those are vent holes where excess resin and air gets pushed out when the two mold parts are put together.  If you go to page 6 on the top link above you will see my secret weapon.  This is a sort of waffle shaped thing I found at work.  It was perfect for my experimenting back then.  It is actually for vibration isolation on motors and pumps to mount on.  So....I place this waffle on top of the mold and then I place molds on top of it.  For me, air pressure and weight on the mold is what makes a good part.  There are still little tricks to know.  When I first decided to try resin casting I was doing what most everyone else was doing.  I joined the Cactus Car model club.  I saw some resin pieces I would have thrown in the trash instead of expecting someone to shell out a lot of money for a difficult task of using them.  So, I learned to make really nice parts pretty quickly and I became the mastercaster.

    Ah, so you put some resin in the female mold, then you put the male mold in and squish the resin out. Some resin comes up the vent holes. Then you put it under pressure and let it cure. But aren't those vent holes still filled with resin? If so, then you just break the cast parts off those stubs of resin in the vent holes?

  5. On 4/2/2018 at 12:30 PM, Greg Wann said:

    I like to have the excess resin pool in these wells.  The flash is nice and thin, this is good.  The best way to release small parts from the thin flash is to carefully break the flash away from the part with a sharpened Starbucks coffee stirrer

    88 to 91 Ford CV 18.JPG



    Greg, by "pour stub" I meant the pools of resin shown here in the center  the mold.These are solid funnel-shaped cavities (the top part is large, then there is a small opening going down towards the part's cavity).  I was wondering how this funnel-shaped piece of hardened resin is detached from the molded mirror.

  6. I believe that the "revive it" stuff is another iteration of the original Future Floor Finish (which in its previous iteration was called Pledge FloorCare Mult-surface finish)

    There used to be a great website called "the complete Future" maintained by a modeler called Swanny, He used to keep up with all the name changes, but he shut it down couple of years ago.

    Um, wait . . . I just checked and it is back!  http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html  But if the "revive it" stuff is really Future, he has not updated the website with that info. Not sure if he is even updating it anymore.

  7. Is the decal paper specifically made for ink jet (not laser) printing? I don't have any pointers on the proper ink jet printer setup (I print my decals on Alps thermal transfer printer), but I can tell you that even if you manage to print the decal correctly, if you apply it to a non-white surface all the non-black colors are translucent and will not show their true colors.  All the standard consumer color printers (CYMK) use translucent colored inks and they need a white background to have the colors properly rendered. My Alps printer is also a CYMK printer but it can also lay down a layer of opaque white ink as an undercoat for the color (CYMK) inks which print over the white.

    For more info on CYMK color model see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CMYK_color_model

  8. 3 hours ago, High octane said:

    Yep, and they're doing it on TV also with MORE commercials and less showtime. Think I'll be watching all my old DVDs  and VHS tapes soon.

    Yeah, that is amazing!  They also often cut out scenes out of the programs to shorten them (and make more time available for commercials). We sure live in strange times.

  9. 9 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

    We have an email chain within our town and someone started a thread about bad Amazon deliveries.  They use their own contractors to deliver and they are worse than UPS, USPS and FedEx combined.  The stories about packages being tossed from moving vehicles etc, and I see them at the curb, off the curb etc all the time. Our houses sit way back on the properties so those packages are just perfect theft bait.  I got home one evening last week and there's a wet Amazon Prime package sitting in the bushes near my curbside mail box in the rain.  Then I found out that my daughter had sent us the package.  We let her know it arrived damage. She checks the shipping info and it says "Delivered - Handed package to resident". Now Amazon is arguing with my daughter that their vendor hand delivered it.. yeesh!

    I've heard some of those horror stories too. But in my case, it was an eBay item (and USPS Priority Mail delivery). I should have been clearer.

  10. On 3/29/2018 at 8:44 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Either porch-pirates or incompetent USPS driver. 

    Tracking number shows a small package of parts was "left at the front door" at 4:52 PM. 

    Odd, as it was a small package that is a size they usually leave in the mailbox.

    I arrived home at 5:08 PM. Nothing on the porch or in the box. Nada. Zip. Zero.

    Going to the PO in the AM to try to find out WTF happened.

    Yeah, it WAS scanned in as "delivered", but that doesn't mean for certain the driver actually put it at the right address. I get other people's stuff occasionally.

    Numbers are hard.

    I had this happen to me few months ago. I even went looking for it at my adjacent neighbor homes - nada. The package was delivered the next day as if nothing has happened.  I wasn't home to ask the mail carrier what happened. Weird!  Like you said, the mail carrier had to scan the barcode on the package to show it as delivered.

  11. 29 minutes ago, martinfan5 said:

    My understanding all Cubes were built in Japan,   what is the 1st or 11th digit on your Cube's Vin number ?

    Cube seems to have been aped from the original Toyota bB (Scion xB in US), but even funkier looking with those rounded windows and asymmetrical styling.  I own a 2006 xB and judging by how many I've seen on the streets, they sold better than the Cube. And xB is so darn cute!  My xB was built in Japan and I think that all xBs were like that.

  12. 1 hour ago, youpey said:


    as of now i have used it on my revell and amd kits and it stripped the chrome off completely without fail. 

    So, they don't use a clear top coat.  But under the "chrome" is also a  layer of clear lacquer (as a glossy base coat for the metalization) which Coke will not strip.  Depending on how fastidious you are, you might want to strip that too, so you end up with bare plastic parts.

  13. 11 hours ago, youpey said:

    i use diet coke (regular coke works too, but seems diet works a bit faster). no joke. it takes 2 days or 3, but there is always soda in the house and there are no toxic smells and it doesnt make the plastic brittle like some of the other cleaners. It is usually one of the first things i do since it takes a couple of days

    i havent tried it with paint, just chrome parts. 

    Colas contain phosphoric acid which is likely what dissolves the very thin layer of aluminum that gives the chrome-like finish.  Colas can be used for lots of things (like removing rust). :D  Just do a Google search for "uses for cola".

    Your method will likely not work on all "chrome" parts.  Some of those parts trees are coated at the factory with a clear lacquer (to protect the fragile layer of aluminum).  It is doubtful that the weak acid in Coke will attack the clear lacquer.


  14. 1 hour ago, Xingu said:

    The 1:1 cars have a lot of internal supports and structure. There are also a lot of different curves, bows and odd angles on the many different types of cars out there. I don't think we could afford to buy a model that also needed that structure to support the correct thickness styrene skins over the doors, hood and trunk.

    I am sure it could be done, but would you sell enough to make it financially feasible.

    Cars are also made (mostly)from steel.  And if they have plastic parts (like bumper covers), those are also much thicker than the steel body parts. Steel is much stronger and stiffer than let's say urethane plastic.

    If you wanted to have scale-thickness body panels in 1:25 scale, those would be around the thickness of heavy duty aluminum foil.  Even if you could mold plastic that thin, it would have no strength.  Some things just can't be scaled.

  15. Yes, the Boston shop was Eric Fuch's Hobby Shop.  They had several satellite locations in the suburbs, and one in New Hampshire.  All long gone.

    The spare Time Hobby Shop in Marlboro (or Marlborough) is one of only few left. And it is a good one. Highly recommended!  It is chock full of all sorts of kits, paints, tools, and aftermarket stuff. Lots of unique items too. It is one of those shops that has very narrow isles because they have so much stock.  It has to be experienced in person. Prices are pretty much MSRP, but some bargains can be found too. If you are a member of a model club, tell them at a checkout (and show them your club ID card if you have one) and they'll give you a discount. It is about 20 miles West of Boston, right on Route 20.  Just do a Google search for "spare time hobby shop marlborough" and check out http://www.sparetimeshop.com/

    The other one I frequent is Hobby Emporium in Tyngsboro (or Tyngsborough). Also very plentiful stock of all sorts of kits.  This one has more widely spaced isles but still lots of goodies.  Prices are also similar to Spare Time Shop and they will also give you discount if you are member of a model club.  This one is about 35 miles northeast of Boston, Exit 36 of Route 3 North.  Again, Google search for "hobby emporium tyngsborugh" and check out https://www.hobbyemporiumtyngsborough.com/

    There is also Hobby Bunker in Malden.  Much closer to Boston, but I have never been there. As I understand, it is geared mostly towards military and miniatures crowd.  Google search for "hobby bunker malden" and visit https://www.hobbybunker.com/

  16. 24 minutes ago, highway said:

    Yes, quite interesting, especially this one copied from that list:

    1:32   9.525 mm

    Military vehicles; 54 mm figure scale toy soldiers are supposed to use this scale as well. Same as Gauge 1, cars, common for slot cars. Some aircraft (e.g. Matchbox/Revell). Commonly referred to as Stablemate size in model horses.



    To be fair, both scales mention 54mm figures.

          8.709 mm

    The most popular scale for military vehicles and figures. Used heavily by Verlinden Productions. It was originally conceived by Tamiya for convenience of fitting motorised parts and batteries. Corresponds well with 54mm figures.

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