peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Problem is with the vague terminology used by modelers. Like "lacquer" and "acrylic". You can have acrylic enamel and acrylic lacquer. The chemistries of various paints can differ, and and solvents can be hot or cold. Paint compatibility is d difficult subject. Unfortunately without knowing more details about the paint chemistry (it would take some digging, and some info is trade secrets), there is no sure way to know the compatibility of any 2 paints, especially when they are by different manufacturers or from different paint lines of the same manufacturer. The type of question asked here pops up regularly in online forums, and there is no sure fire answer. The best answer is to test the compatibility on some disposable surface (like a plastic spoon). But even that is not guaranteed since the kit's plastic has a different composition from the spoon, and even thought the test is between the paint layer and the clear coat, the paint's substrate can make a difference.
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I think this is the first time I encountered "vtg".
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The shop looks good, but I have to ask: Are the air lines plumbed using standard water/sewer PVC piping? If yes, You might want to rethink that. Please see https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/resource-center/using-pvc-pipe-for-compressed-air/ and other online warnings about not doing that. Friend of mine used such pipes for compressed air and we had one burst after coupe of months. Fortunately it did not injure anybody, but I would never do that again.
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13 hours ago, Brudda said:
Has been corrected! Thanks again.
Perfection!
Improperly installed lenses are a peeve of mine and they are also one of the things that make or break the model's realism.
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My precision CA applicator is a large sewing needle with half if its eye cut off. It is basically a tiny fork. The other end is then mounted in an acrylic rod handle, but a dowel would work too. I take a piece of aluminum foil and put a drop of CA on it. Then I dip my applicator in it and transfer the glue to the area which needs the glue. Works very well.
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We are inching towards self-driving cars. In those vehicles there will be no need for a typical car dashboard and controls. The car will take care of the mundane task of driving and monitoring all of its systems. I suspect that most of its functions will be voice-controlled. It will also be prone to being hacked or hijacked, but that is a subject for another conversation.
In those cars a large touch screen will be perfect for its occupants to enjoy their social media banter and other entertainment. There will be no driver to speak of. Heck, we will probably have implants which will allow our brains directly to interact with our computing and communication devices (which are basically one and the same already). I'm not ready of all this, but many are.
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On 7/8/2018 at 1:05 AM, Force said:
Parts requests go through Revell AG now since there is no Revell US anymore.
When I asked for the replacement cab for my Kenworth K100 I first did it with Revell US, I got an answer from Mr Ed Sexton regarding shipping and I answered that, but they never sent one to me.
Then after the Hobbico deal I tried to get one with Revell AG but they couldn't help me.
It's a bit funny since these trucks was originally issued by Revell AG, the re-issues was from Revell US, the plastic was molded in Poland and the tires in China but the kits were packed in the US...and no one could help me with a new cab to replace the cracked one in my kit...the chrome was good in my kit.
Everything are the same in the more recent re-issue of the K100 Aerodyne except for the roof section, but it didn't help either.So you are located in Europe (Sweden) and Revel AG will not help you either? And like you said, it is a originally Revell AG (not Revell USA) kit. Looks like this Revell thing is a mess.
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I bought some of his wire wheels on eBay. He probably still sells them there too.
He doesn't use photo-etched spokes. He hand-laces the wheels using wire (which has a round cross-section. just like real spokes).
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Sweet! Looks like it is ready to be driven away! But can you fix that single rotated lens in the backup lights? Close-up photos are very unforgiving.
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Nice close-up photo!
And the tires themselves are made from 2 or 3 plastic "slices", correct?
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Great model! Legos sure have come a long way from the simple blocks I played with as a kid!
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If you want different wheels then there are some options.
There are both model kits companies, and aftermarket companies making wheel and tire sets. For example Aoshima and Fujimi (Japanese kit manufacturers) sell wheel and tire sets. Easiest to get them is on eBay (or possibly on Amazon). Aoshima has the widest range available. Go to eBay and in the Models and Kits section search for "Aoshima wheels" or Fujumi wheels". You'll see plenty to choose from. -
On 7/7/2018 at 9:47 AM, cowboy rich said:
You see there's a reply in wheres waldo?
I just did - thanks! Good to know that he is alive and modeling.
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Good to know he is still alive and modeling. Thanks!
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Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid, or VM&P Naphtha from a hardware store) usually work well for this.
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11 hours ago, Pete J. said:
One of my favorite dustups of all time. Ferrari F150 and Ford F150. After a legal battle, Ferrari changed the name to Italia, because someone is likely to go into a Ferrari dealership looking for a pickup!
Doesn't Ford have a hyphen in there? F-150?
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Maybe I should ask in the Large Scale section? After all, that is where Cato posted mos often.
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They both enjoyed building detailed large-scale models (Pocher). Not sure about any other relation.
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Very nice models!
Are they plastic or metal?
Were they kits, or pre-assembled models? -
4 hours ago, dino246gt said:
I have their gorgeous 68-71 Maserati Ghibli, curbside but highly detailed, I've started it but can't decide on a colour, so it's just in the box!
That is one on my short list of all-time favorite cars! Beautiful profile!
None of the cartoonish chiseled bodies (which look like they came out of transformers movie) many cars have nowadays.
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2 minutes ago, GaryR said:
COOL! I have often thought of building just engines!
More please!
There are several large scale models of engines available - those are fun to build and detail. Like this one:
https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/alfa-romeo/products/engine-kit-a001
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Does anybody know why he stopped posting and even visiting the forum?
I checked his profile and his last post was on Oct. 21, 2017, and he last visited here on April 4, 2018. I miss his presence. He is an excellent large-scale modeler and I thoroughly enjoyed following his superb Pocher Rolls Royce build.
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1 hour ago, peter31a said:
Would this work better in the Where's Waldo section designed just for this type of question?
That didn't even cross my mind - I almost never visit that section. I will - thanks!
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Does anybody know why he stopped posting and even visiting the forum?
I checked his profile and his last post was on Oct. 21, 2017, and he last visited here on April 4, 2018. I miss his presence. He is an excellent large-scale modeler and I thoroughly enjoyed following his superb Pocher Rolls Royce build.
The best way to polish spray can paint
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted · Edited by peteski
While I do use an airbrush, I do not sand, polish, or wax my models. This one was painted with Tamiya Fine White primer, and few coats of nail polish. Stripes are painted using AccuPaint (model railroad paint similar to Tru-Color paint), and there are few coats of Testors Wet Look clear. All airbrushed with a Badger 200 airbrush. I have spot sanded/polished boogers on few of my models, but that is rare. Never the entire body.