Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by peteski

  1. I, too, have experienced this. I have several ancient Testor enamel cans that don't leak but have had about 5 of the newer lacquer cans leak. Something, perhaps, in the chemical composition of the contents? I'm interested to find out the answer.

    I doubt it. It is most likely a mechanical problem. I suspect that the bottom of the an is not crimped very well and develops leaks under constant pressure.

  2. Because its easier to remove Sharpie ink from clear plastic then is to remove paint from clear plastic without messing up the clear plastic

    A damp rag of 91proof alcohol and the Sharpie Ink is gone and you can give it another go.

    If you use a paint marker on a clear plastic and you mess up, you will notice you messed up right away (won't you?). If the paint is not fully hardened then alcohol will remove it almost as easily as if it was Sharpie ink.

    I'm not a big fan of Sharpies. The ink can be rubbed off easily and it also runs/bleeds easily when exposed to solvent from many paints.  it also has a glossy finish which is not really good for simulating rubber gaskets or trim (which is usually satin or flat).

  3. I should also mention an alternative to the standard black Sharpies (which are really dark purple) and run when exposed to many paint solvents.  There is also a "red label" Sharpie industrial marker. It seems to be more solvent resistant. The stated color is black but it is a really dark blue.  You guys might want to give it a try.  I just used it the other day to blacken some metal parts.



  4. Thanks for that, never heard of it before so I was way off the mark. Basically what we call in England a felt pen, or marker pen, and when shaped a calligraphy pen. I use one that has a .2mm tip, for some reason I have never looked up it is sold as a radiography pen. Comes in handy for marking saw lines etc ?

    We also have felt-tip pens or markers and calligraphy pens in USA. But those usually use water-soluble inks.  Sharpie is a felt-tip pen (comes in several sizes) but the ink is permanent (waterproof).  I wonder if the radiography pen uses waterproof ink?

  5. Thanks Bill - it is good to hear from an actual user of the system. The other possible problem is the resolution. I make decals mostly for N-scale model trains (1:160 scale). Some of the lettering can be really small (where the letters are about 0.015" high). I'm not sure if that system is capable of such fine resolution. Plus it really is quite messy when compared to Alps. But as I said, if that is the only viable (and affordable) option, then go for it.

  6. Actually, I misunderstood your post Bill. Not sure what I was thinking. I thought you were using the abrasive powder to scuff the shiny "chrome" finish to dull it down making it look like cast or brushed aluminum. But now I just re-read your post and you are scuffing the surface for the metalized paint to adhere better.  That makes sense. I also agree that in some rare instances it might be possible that the masking tape might peel up the "chrome" finish.

  7. The massacre in a Texas church this morning. What is this world coming too, where no one is SAFE anywhere?

    Unfortunately no - no place is safe or sacred anymore.  That is why many Americans yearn to go back to the good ol' days.  But the Pandora's box has been open and we cannot put things back to the way they were.  Going to my workshop and working on models (and listening to the music of my choice) makes me forget about the outside world for a while.

  8. And because I'm anal, I just want to mention that the "chrome" on plastic parts is actually vacuum-deposited aluminum. It is applied over glossy clear coat and it is only few atoms thick, so it looks like highly polished aluminum (which is a good substitute for chrome).  But also because it is so thin (especially if it is not coated with a layer clear lacquer during manufacturing) it is very fragile, so by rubbing abrasive on it you are risking removing the thin layer of metal, exposing the plastic.

    I have used Testors Dullcote for dulling the look of "chrome" and I have never experienced any bad effects.  But there are also water-based satin or flat clears which should be very safe over the "chrome".

  9. I've been searching out companies that make and sell strictly wire. One of them being here.

    This one is just  a directory but i searched for .012 diameter wire and came up with a bunch of manufacturers and distributors. These are probably the places aftermarket guys buy their wire. They more than likely wouldn't sell you 3 feet at a time, you'd probably have to buy a spool but basic hookup wire probably wouldn't be that expensive as opposed to basic braided wire. that would probably be a little more expensive. Nothing says you cant sell a few feet here and there though.

    Of course the aftermarket guys buy the stuff in bulk from wire manufacturers or distributors.  They often do not deal with individuals.  Also remember that if you have the wire diameter, that is not the outside dimension of the insulation.

  10. As an Alps MicroDry printer owner and a member of couple of Alps groups online I have been aware of DecalProFX system for several years. Alps owners have been looking for something to replace our aging Alps printers. From what we determined This system is quite cumbersome to set up and nowhere near the capabilities of Alps. Not something we found as a viable replacement for Alps printers. But I guess if someone starts fresh, it might be a viable option.

    Their website is a pain in the butt to navigate, but watch all the related tutorial and videos to see if this is something you want to use.

    Yes, dry transfers have been around for decades and used for hobby markings.  I have used them myself too.  I have also applied dry transfers to clear decal film and than applied them to the model as a decal.  It is often easier to do that then trying to rub the try transfer directly on a uneven surface of a model.

  11. Jeroen PM'd me the link to that Revell stripper. Thanks Jeroen! https://www.revell.de/en/products/colors-glue-co/other-accessories/id/39617.html

    The active ingredient is 1-Methoxy-2-propanol which I believe is a chemical similar to what is used in the Testors Easy Lift-Off (ELO) paint remover: Dipropylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether, Isobutanol.  Still, too bad it is not available in USA so I could try to see how it works.


  • Create New...