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Posts posted by peteski

  1. Not helped, of course, by Tamiya describing their TS sprays as acrylics... They are “hot”, and will certainly craze or eat away anything underneath except primer or another TS spray. The other way around, you can paint any Tamiya acrylic that comes in a pot and thins with water or X-20A over the top. It can be tricky to get the acrylic to “wet” the shiny surface of the cured spray paintjob, so I tend to mask and airbrush the acrylics using very light mist coats to start with to build up a “key”...




    Some modelers, years ago, started this silly (and incorrect) usage of the term "acrylic" to mean "water-based acrylic enamel".  For some reason that stuck and now everybody is now misusing the term "acrylic". I'm no paint chemist but I educated myself a bit about paints (since I use them in my hobby).  For example https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint some good basic theory and terms.

    Paint consists of the pigment (color), binder (the resin which hods the pigment and also adheres to the painted surface), and solvent/vehicle (the liquid which evaporates).  The solvent in both, lacquers and enamels evaporates, allowing the binder to dry on the painted surface. That is where the difference between lacquer and enamel comes in. The dry binder in lacquer can be redissolved by applying solvent over it. But the binder in enamels, after it is dry, continues to change (harden or set) chemically. Usually that change is caused by exposure to oxygen. Once fully hardened, the binder in enamel paints will not redissolve when exposed to the solvents.  It will soften, but will not re-liquify. It will wrinkle and come off in sheets.

    If you have some lacquer which thickened in the bottle (because the solvent evaporated) you can add more solvent and the lacquer is usable. But if the same thing happens to enamel paint and oxygen also gets in the bottle  you end up with a jelly-like mess and no amount of solvent will bring the enamel paint back to usable state.

    Enough of the chemistry lesson. What bugs me is that modelers keep using the term "acrylics" for any of the "water-soluble" enamels. Why? Because the acrylic resin can also be used as a binder in organic-solvent-based (the stinky and bad for you kind) lacquers and enamels. There are many different binders (like urethane, acrylic, or other resins) which can be used in both water-based-solvent, and organic-solvent-based paints and enamels.  So every time I see modelers assume that acrylic means water-based enamel.  I wish people were more educated and used more accurate terminology.

    The "hot" and "cold" paints is also a broad generalization, but I can live with that.

    Here - I feel better now! :D

  2. In my opinion, GM has been making seriously questionable decisions for a long time. Of note:

    . . .

    Deciding to dump the IC engine for a total-electric future may well be another costly mistake.

    Of course, to most consumers these days, a car is an appliance much like a toaster or a fridge. It stands to reason that a non-gearhead corporate culture would evolve to play to that market.


    As I recall hearing recently, GM is not the only company which stated they will go all electric in several years. I think one of the other companies might be Volvo (or whoever owns them now). That is another problem, there were so many buy-outs and mergers in the automotive manufacturing that all the car brand lines are blurred.

    Going back to the original topic, just because they say they will do something doesn't matter that it will actually happens. They can change their minds or have unforeseen problems fulfilling their promise.  It is not like someone will shut them down if they don't go 100% electric.

    As far as cars being appliances that is true. Most of the Millennials, and even younger crowd, would rather not drive. Gone are the days teens wanted to get away from home and make out in the back seat of their own cars. Instead, they are constantly glued to their smart phone with the need to socialize every second of their waking day.   Forget electric cars, I predict that in 20 years people won't need smart phones - they will all receive a brain interface implant allowing direct communication with others by thoughts. No more tiny keyboards and sore thumbs - all you will have to to is think. :)

  3. What I'm saying is that over the course of the summer months, there was no discernible difference on our monthly electricity bill from June through August. I had the car for the month of July. So in normal usage, without doing any additional power saving or conservation, our power bill didn't really change by more than a few dollars. Was there additional power usage because of the car? Slightly, but it was less than the following month, When looking at the total dollar amount, roughly the same. 

    June 2014 - $102.07 - 594 kWh

    July 2014 - $97.54 - 596 kWh

    August 2014 - $97.06 - 656 kWh

    Those amounts are lifted right from our power bill.

    And let's be serious here, anyone saying they base their power bill on usage instead of dollars is either lying or not being entirely truthful. It's the same people that freaked out on VW for emissions. No one buys the car because of the cleanliness of the exhaust, they buy because it will go 1300km on $50 of diesel.

    At the end of the day, people will look at what their monthly bill costs them, and that is what they'll base their perception on. As I did.




    But regardless of how you see it, the fact is that the July bill include the cost of that car being charged.  However much it cost. If we know how many kW was needed to charge the car you coudl figure out how much of that bill was for the charging.

    As far as electric cars go, there are a lot of "green" people out there who will buy one of them just because it is electric (even if it would cost them more to drive it than an internal-combustion car).  As far as electric bill goes, usage is related directly to cost so I really don't see your point.  You use more electricity, you pay more for it. Simple as that. In USA where you can buy electricity from many different suppliers, some of those suppliers guarantee that their electricity is generated by100% "green" sources.  They are actually more expensive per kW than most other companies but I have feeling that some of the "green" people sign up with them and pay more for their electricity just to be able to say that they are using "green energy".  Go figure . . .

  4. Over the course of 3.5 weeks, I used $3 CDN of fuel. And our power bill for the month was actually lower than the previous month, and about the same as the following month. 

    . Over the course of a week, I charged it twice. And again, noticed nothing on my power bill.

    Hmm . . .how could that be?  The charging consumed X-number of kilowatts, so that had to show up on your bill.  There is no question about that. Maybe you just happened to use less electricity elsewhere in your house?  Does the car's charging system tell you how many kilowatts it took to charge the battery?  If you know that then you can easily calculate how much it cost you.

    For example if the cost for kilowatt where you live is 15 cents/kW and the charging your vehicle consumed 50kW than the cost would have been 0.15 X 50 = $7.50.

  5. The "formula" is just the same for wheels as it is for determining any other scale measurement on any part of any car.

    For 1/24 scale, take the real measurement and divide by 24.

    For 1/25, take the real measurement and divide by 25.

    So...a 17 inch wheel on a real car would measure .708 inches for 1/24 scale (which is why a digital caliper can be handy).

    A 17 inch wheel in 1/25 scale would be .68 inches (which is 17.2 mm). The interesting thing here is that one inch in full scale is quite close to 1 mm in 1/25 scale, so you can get pretty close that way too.

    NOTE: Wheel diameter is NOT measured across the front face of a wheel. Rather, it's measured at the tire mounting surface...and very few model companies regularly get this right for some odd reason..

    Image result for measuring wheel diameter


    For that reason I add one inch to the tire diameter to get an approximate wheel fact rim diameter (since that is what is used on a model). So to me a a 1:1 17" wheel will be 18 inches in diameter.

  6. My first goal is to get the board running faster. But, before we can do anything, we have to be able to back up the files. This board is huge. The files (including pictures) are 57 GB. The database is a good deal smaller, but still big. That will be Thursday night's task. 

    I have been involved with computers since the early '80s We used 300MB washing-machine-size CDC hard drives for the CAD/CAM systems we were making. Had my first personal PC in the early '90s. I bought 130MB hard drive for it and I thought that I would never fill it up. Now I work with iSCSI storage arrays which have *HUGE* capacities. 57GB seemed huge just few years back, but now you can pick up a 3.5" 8TB hard drive for less than $250. Compared to that single 3.5" 8TB drive, 57GB seems insignificant. :D

    But I also understand that it is still a pain to manage a forum like this and make backups, etc.  Thanks for your efforts!

  7. Hey, how'd you take that picture?

    Just pointed my camera towards the handset and snapped the photo.

    Is it possible the your phone company is aware that number is a scam number? Maybe they tagged it.

    CallerID is easily spoofed. One spammer actually called me showing my own name and phone number. How could I be calling myself? :D

    But maybe you are right about the scam thing.  Reading through https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caller_ID shows that "The calling party name is added by the consumer's terminating central office if the consumer has subscribed to that service. Calling name delivery is not automatic."


  8. Very nice looking ducts!

    If you wrap the wire around a threaded bolt, the threads will make the spacing even. After wrapping the wire, unscrew the bolt and proceed as usual.


    The threaded bolt works, but in my example I used thick enough wire that I wrapped each turn tightly touching the previous turn. It sort of looked like one of the thick guitar strings before I dipped it in the Plasti-Dip.

  9. Actually paying attention and having a clue as to what you're doing is good...and increasingly rare.

    Two separate auction sellers:

    One states SPECIFICALLY in the auction text to combine auctions for savings on shipping. Then at checkout, there's a big RED message that says seller has disallowed combined shipping. Got it sorted after several emails. BS.

    Other one sells several kits for good prices, and even though shipping is a little high, they're still under market. Tried to get a combined invoice, and apparently one kit is "lost" or "sold earlier". Thing is, it's the one I wanted most, and frankly I bought the others because the one I REALLY wanted was such a good deal....so I figured I'd give the guy more money. More BS.

    And never a word like "sorry for the inconvenience".

    It's obviously just too hard to get it right in the first place, and too hard to exercise common courtesy afterwards...and I'm the backside orifice for expecting either.

    That actually might be eBay's fault. There seems to be some settings that the seller is unaware which makes eBay reject requests for combined shipping.  That happened to me few times. Each time I contacted seller through one of the listings (after a rejected "request total") and the sellers apologized and sent me a combined-shipping invoices.

    But I also agree on your other point that the smarter the phones are getting, the dumber their average users seem to become.

  10. Telemarketing.


    And I don't understand WHY it's still legal. Almost ALL of the calls are some kind of scam, and everyone in the known universe HATES them. Still, they continue unabated and the "do not call" list is a joke.

    Seriously...has ANYBODY here ever actually BOUGHT anything hawked by a telemarketer?


    It is not legal, but what can you do about it?  The callerID they use is spoofed so how will you report them to whatever authorities are in charge of the Do Not Call list. Are you are going to ask them for their real company name, the salesperson's name and their address and real phone number?! We're screwed!

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