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Posts posted by peteski

  1. We're looking at doing that. If we can download the pictures from the links, we can probably write a program to update Harry's posts. Unfortunately the P'tak at Photobucket haven't made it easy. 

    I wonder if his children (Amy?) could provide Harry's username/password to Photobucket. Assuming that they even have that info. That way the albums could be downloaded easier than clicking each link to a photo in a post.

  2. Photobucket is disabling 3rd part hosting (which is what we do when we link to Photobucket images in our posts here) on free account in waves, so not everybody will see the problem at the same time. They disabled mine already.  They will re-enable the functionality, but it will cost you $500/year.

    Forum Admins: disabling quotas and allowing us all to upload our photos directly to this forum is an awesome news!  I always preferred forums which allowed this. That way the photos will always be available, even in older threads, for as long as the forum is online.

    Now if someone (with admin rights) would download all of Harry P's photos and upload them to the appropriate threads, that would be really good. That way we could preserve his legacy.

  3. Peter, still though--it's the glass bottle that is the most expensive piece of the equation. Go check on the price of the smaller glass paint storage bottles that are out there for sale.  Even if you take 45% off that retail price, at say, Hobby Lobby (which will result in approximately what those bottles cost FOB the glass bottle factory's loading dock, they are still costly.  Even the likes of Paasche buy them by the thousands.  By contrast, my pint 16 fl oz.) of MEK, in a metal can,  set me back a whole $8 back in 2006.


    Art, here is the bottle Ambroid was sold in:


    Cost per bottle (in quantity of 240-4200 is 52 cents a piece. More than 4200 is 39 cents a piece). Didn't look at the shipping cost, but I don't think it will be that significant when broken down to per-bottle cost. That is a fraction of the price charged by the bottle of glue.

    But I do agree that buying industrial chemicals in larger quantities (like you or I do) is much less expensive than buying a bottle of hobby cement.

  4. Well done Carl!  I also like the color - you didn't see many blue TRANS AMs when these were new.  One thing that bugs me is the lack of any separation line between the fenders and the nose. The plastic nose is a separate piece and on the 1:1 car there is a clearly visible seam.



    You mention that those parts didn't fit well and you had to fill/sand them. But then you left that area smooth like the fenders and nose are single piece.  I would have scribed in the separation line to make that area more realistic.  Same goes for the rear bumper skin. There is a clear separation line there too.  The taillight lens is heavily tinted on the real car, so I wouldn't have painted it red.  This photo also shows the rear bumper seam.


    I'm also not fan of whitewalls on a TRANS AM, but that is just a personal preference. Just like on real cars, I would have used the black-wall side of the tire or, removed the whitewall paint.

    I hope that you don't think that I'm putting down your modelling efforts - I'm not. I do like your model. I just mentioned few things that I would have done differently.

  5. Others have recommended using a "real" paint stripper (which is correct) but nobody warned you about *NOT* using the purple stuff. The purple degreaser contains Lye which is caustic and will react with the metal.  Don't use it on any metal parts! Especially aluminum (which is usually used in the alloy used for die-cast models)..

  6. I disagree Art. At the quantities they buy their bottles (they buy them by the thousands), they are relatively inexpensive. So are the chemicals they pour into the bottles. The most "expensive" part of those cements in little glass bottles is the profit made by the company producing them. Same goes for hobby paints.

  7. Another vote for Tamiya tape - pricey but it works really well.  It is more pliable and has a smoother adhesive surface than regular masking tapes. Well worth it.

    If I have large areas to mask, I only use Tamiya tape on the perimeter of the masked area, and regular painter's blue tape to fill the remaining masked areas.

    As far as the green Frog tape goes (at least the stuff I bought about 10 years ago to try), it is designed to work with water-based latex or acrylic paints (house paints).  The edges are treated with special adhesive which is supposed to swell up when exposed to water to create a tight seal on the edge. That is what is supposed to prevent paint from seeping under it.  That special adhesive does nothing for the organic-solvent based hobby enamels or lacquers we usually use for model cars.

    I have never tired the yellow Frog tape so I don't know its special properties. As others mentioned, thoroughly burnishing the edge is important with all tapes.  Also do not spray a wet coat of paint right away and don't spray against the tape's edge. Either spray perpendicular to the models surface or even slightly from the masked side.

  8. I'm sure we all get those SPAMs (Phishing and others). I do.  This forum is no different than any other forum (like Spotlight Hobbies for example).  Actually it is more "secure" as your email address is not easily visible (like it is on Spotlight board). Once your email address gets in the hands of the SPAMMERS, you are a fair target for all.  The Phishing emails are not related to whether you shop online or not.  They just blindly blanket-email thousands of email addresses hoping some poor sap will fall for the spoof.

  9. So this is basically an exchange of modeling items (kits, parts, supplies, etc.) estimating their worth and trying to do an even swap (value-wise).  I have never done that and it sounds like trouble to me (since the price estimate can very from person to person). Unless the specifics were discussed and agreed upon before the swap, I wouldn't even attempt such a transaction.   This "I'll take a car body for 2 engine castings" thing just doesn't seem like something I would be interested in doing. But from what John said, he has been happily doing this for some time. However as shown here, eventually one is bound to run into the situation John is in.  Sorry to hear about it, but not surprised.

  10. Ok, so this is a 1:25 steering wheel. The leather wrap on the 1:1 wheel was a a band of (perforated?) leather which was wrapped around the steering wheel then a piece of thin leather "string" was spirally wrapped around the rim and the leather band to make the band conform to the rim and to hold it in place.

    As I see it, in 1:25 scale any perforations will look out of scale. So will any sort of a wrap added to the rim.  What I would recommend it so just simulate the spiral wrapping "string" of the 1:1 wheel.  I would use thin wire wrapped around the rim.  Something thinner than 0.010". Best would be some thin magnet wire extracted from an old transformer or electric motor.   Use thin CA to adhere the wire to the rim.  Once done, pain the rim in the color of the leather wrap (which might or might not be different than the rest of the steering wheel).  Done!

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