peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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2 minutes ago, DEL said:
No offense Pete but I would have a heckuva time seeing any impurities in chrome work on those parts. at least by the pic. They look nice! Small objects with many twists and turns and bump ins & outs lend themselves somewhat to playing tricks on the eye.
The larger parts were already cut of of the rack in the photo. The one was not all that bad. I don't have the parts which had the worse flaws anymore. I posted the photo to show that that I rack the parts myself and that for me stripping and re-plating would not work due to the extra work involved.
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7 hours ago, 1930fordpickup said:
So I take it that those the feel it is in bad taste do not watch movies and TV based on a true story?
Not at all. Do I small a bit of trolling here? The bad taste is the fact that it is a toy made for kids to bounce on (and have innocent fun with lots of laughter). When watching a movie depicting carnage, a normal person does not have fun, laugh or enjoy themselves. They usually feel sad (and even shed a tear sometimes).
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On 10/15/2018 at 6:04 PM, peteski said:
Same here - dust in the "chrome". Of course I was offered a free re-plating, but I wasn't about to try stripping the inferior finish on many delicate parts. Too much hassle. I'm not going back.
Just to show why I declined the free re-plating offer, I rack my own parts, with many parts being small and delicate pinned to the rack. I wasn't about to try to strip those. Here is a photo of one of my racks (some parts and pieces of the rack itself
have been removed at the time I took this photo).
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I glanced at the subject line and figured that I'll leave my 5 cents here too.
I don't think I will ever get tired of my "normal build subject". I build a wide rage of kits in scales from 1:220 to 1:6, including cars, trucks, motorcycles, some SciFi, ships, aircraft, and others. I'm also into model trains and electronics. I also spent too much time on my computer (and I'm not even on Facebook).
Currently I am working on bunch of model railroad related projects (including an animated and illuminated Merry-go-Round model for an N scale carnival). If anything, I have too many projects going on. Never bored!!
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23 hours ago, martinfan5 said:
The DS21 I believed is set to be out this month if we go by what HLJ has listed.
I sure hope they make a lot of them because the HLJ pre-order is closed.
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This is one of those questions which is repeatedly asked here. Of course the specific size of wire depends on the scale you are modeling in.
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4 hours ago, 1930fordpickup said:
Does it say Titanic on it?
Does that really matter? The point being made is that It's a large cruise ship sinking.
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Any news about EBBRO 1/24 Citroen DS21?
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10 hours ago, oldnslow said:
I saw those and started making my own , On30 scale that is .
This is "Tiny" ,
Yes, in 0n30, that is tiny. I model in N scale (1:160), which is much smaller than 0, but to get really really tiny, the smallest operating model railroad scale is "T" (not to be confused with TT). It is 1:450.
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These are fantasy (not functional, or logically designed) vehicles.
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Interesting model and creative use of generic household items - I like it!
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4 hours ago, John Pol said:
some people use apron to catch parts and put vecro on the side of the table and two strips on the apron
That's exactly what I do. My neighbor (RIP) made an apron for me (sewing was her hobby) and I had her put a strip of Velcro on the bottom edge. The mating Velcro strip is stuck under the bench top. I put the apron on, sit down and reach under the workbench to attach the apron to the Velcro. Even if I accidentally get up, the Velcro releases safely.
It is an age-old watchmaker's trick. It works great (if I don't forget to wear it)!
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On 10/14/2018 at 2:59 PM, Lorne said:
First time using Chrome Tech wasn't too bad, they responded on my email inquiry when asked if they had received "in good order", also the plating was good! . Sent another batch to them a year later and,...... wow! they really dropped the ball !!!!! I only used half of the parts the other half looked like they were dropped in a dust bin! They did not take the time to clean of the surface (dust particles underneath the chroming)!!!! Don't want to scare you off, I'm certain they are on the up and up. But, I am a paying customer and was really disappointed. Im surprised they don't have a quality assurance and a quality control person checking their plating. Social media can kill a business if you receive poor service.
Same here - dust in the "chrome". Of course I was offered a free re-plating, but I wasn't about to try stripping the inferior finish on many delicate parts. Too much hassle. I'm not going back.
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Is this stuff made in China?
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On 10/12/2018 at 11:16 PM, Pete J. said:
OKI data bought out the Alps patents many years ago. They still make printers that print white and other colors for decals(transfer media). They are kind of hard to find but can be had. https://www.oki.com/us/printing/products/textile-transfer-printers/c711WT/index.html
Well, things aren't that simple. Alps Electric is a large Japanese company producing electronic components. Alps MicroDry thermal-transfer printing technology was used and/or licensed by several companies. But AFAIK Alps was the only company making the hardware (print heads, etc.).
In the '90s Alps chose to enter the consumer printer market by producing a line of computer printers. The MD series of printers (MD stands for MicroDry).
They produced the MD2000 series first, followed by the MD1000 series (yes out of sequence numbering), then the last MD printers were the MD5000 series. These consumer printers were not a commercial success. While the print quality was excellent, and the inks were color-fast and waterproof, the printers were complicated and expensive, and the cost of consumables was also fairly high. They were ale extremely slow compared to ink jet and laser printers. Those quickly became the mainstream consumer printers with Alps falling behind. But Alps MD printers had some unusual and unique capabilities (like being able to retain the paper inside printer and printing multiple passes in perfect registration (the ability to layer inks), and of course the ability to pint white and metallic colors. Because of those capabilities and the waterproof ink, they found a niche market with modelers and small cottage industry producers of custom water-slide decals.
As I mentioned other companies either re-badger Alps rinters or utilized print heads for their own brand printers. Rebadged Alps printers were Citizen Printivas (MD2000 series), Powis Parker (DP5000 series), and OKI DP series (MD500 series). Alps also manufactured a higher-end printer which was sold as OKI DP7000 and also Kodak First Check.
Then in the larger printer formats, Roland DG utilized Alps technology in a series of their plotter/cutter printers.
All the above printers are discontinued and out of production. OKI and few others have developed color laser printers which use white toner, so they are capable of printing white ink. But compared to the capabilities of Alps MD printers, they have limitations and they are much more expensive (both the hardware and consumables). That technology is not related to the Alps MicroDry technology.
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Are there any photos on the box sides showing that area? I'm not an expert but it seems to me that the mounts on the outboard motor's halves have to be glued into slots in parts #10. Just like the dashed-line shows. On a real boat those areas would likely be hinged so the motor can tilt. Then the backs of parts #10 woudl be glued to the boats stern (rear), again as shown on the diagram.
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I got a cheap meat thermometer I stick through one of the slots in my dehydrator's cover. Mine also has no adjustable temperature but it can be adjusted by opening or closing the slots on the top and bottom of it. I run mine between 110-120 deg. F
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8 hours ago, Snake45 said:
Welly diecast, $10 brand new at Rite Aid, 2 hours or less of Snake-Fu, on my shelf, DONE! Next!
So, if he decides to build his kit, he can buy himself a very decent $10 set of (correct?) wheels and tires. What a bargain! I would pay $10 just for those tires.
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6 hours ago, crazyjim said:
I've never used them, but I hear good things about Little Motor Kar.
As I understand, they did all the vacuum metalizing "plating" for Modelhaus. I am also less than happy with Chrometech USA and am planninng to one of the other companies for my next project.
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12 hours ago, Art Anderson said:
As for that 1/10 scale hollow Ranchero body, that would have been an acrylic (think polyester resin here) casting made by closing up the prototype hand-carved basswood mold patterns, ...
Art
Which is it? Acrylic or Polyester? Those are distinctively different types of resins. Acrylic is not Polyester, and vice versa.
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11 hours ago, Snake45 said:
I believe this also explains where the term "high-impact styrene" (not seen that much anymore, but common in the '60s) comes from.
Yes, high-impact-polystyrene is stronger and less brittle than plain polystyrene. ABS is just another type of polystyrene Coplymer.
A good info on polystyrene is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_impact_polystyrene Here is a quote
Pure polystyrene is brittle, but hard enough that a fairly high-performance product can be made by giving it some of the properties of a stretchier material, such as polybutadiene rubber. The two such materials can never normally be mixed because of the small mixing entropy of polymers (see Flory-Huggins solution theory), but if polybutadiene is added during polymerisation it can become chemically bonded to the polystyrene, forming a graft copolymer,[citation needed] which helps to incorporate normal polybutadiene into the final mix, resulting in high-impact polystyrene or HIPS, often called "high-impact plastic" in advertisements. One commercial name for HIPS is Bextrene. Common applications of HIPS include toys and product casings. HIPS is usually injection molded in production.
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I was browsing through eBay when I accidentally ran into a kit from a series from which I, as a kid, I built one kit I totally forgot about it until I saw that eBay listing. It sure brought back some memories.
The one I built was not any of the Planet of the Apes movie, but the WW I dogfight with the Red Baron plane.The original Toys R Us price: $2.91! Then the other price tag on the box top shows $5.00. Wow!
Anybody else built any of these kits?
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30 minutes ago, NYLIBUD said:
I've never heard of,or saw this car before,and I'm glad,cause it is one heck of a gaudy,and ugly car.Looks like another pimp mobile.Wonder what they are worth.Blaaaaaa?????
The straight lines and sharp angles of the hood and roof seriously clash with the swoopy curved fenders and doors. Yuck!
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1/8" shank tungsten carbide drills Ace showed are PC board drill bits (used to drill holes in electronic circuit boards). They are very sharp (have split point) and will easily drill through stainless steel. But they are very fragile and shatter easily. Best way to drill through thin material is to sandwich it tightly between 2 thicker materials (like wood or aluminum). Otherwise, as you drill through the thin metal sheet, it will likely climb up the drill flutes and shatter the bit.
have been removed at the time I took this photo).
What Do I Do?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Yes there are many very helpful people here - like you: Thanks for those Good Year Wrangler tires!