peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Usually, I give the can a vigorous shaking a day or two before using it, with the as-specified-on-the-can one-minute shake the day it is used. You should be able to roll the agitator ball/marble/whatever around the bottom of the can.
Just don't shake it TOO hard! Rememeber this thread?
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...but even reading doesn't seem to be thought to be relevant by many any more.
Neither is cursive writing. Many Millennials cannot decipher cursive writing.
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There is a whole slew of superb-quality dollhouse detailing items (like real porcelain vases or flowers) available (it is a big hobby in itself). It is not like you have to scratchbuld these. . .
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My Library has one now and May even be allowing patrons to 'Print' items in a few months!!
Libraries - not just for lending (paper) books anymore. Glad to see that the libraries are adapting to the world around them.
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What is the color temperature of your LED bulb and the CRI (Color Rendering Index)? I usually only see the higher wattage LED bulbs in high color temperatures (over 4000K) and that is too blue and too harsh for my eyes. I prefer the 2700-3000K warm white color. Then if the CRI is low, it will not truly show your paint colors.
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One word: Alclad II.
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I suspect that the solvent used in PlastiDip will attack or soften bare styrene.
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I have ordered from them once and it was an uneventful transaction. That was few years ago.
When I complained that while their paint dries it remains soft forever, they sent me a bottle of hardener for free. But I never had a chance to see how it works (I wasn't using the paint at that point and the hardener has now set in the bottle.
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They also lose mail too. I once paid a bill and it never got paid. Then the following month I get a bill that's two months charge plus a $20 late fee for the previous month. The lost check was never cashed.
With millions of mail pieces they go through every day, stuff like that can happen. It happened to me too. I also had a package from Japan (non-tracked) lost in the mail for few months. Finally I received a large envelope from USPS which contained the top of the package box and an official form stating that the package got damaged and that the box top was the only thing from the package they found.
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My trick (pretty sure I invented it, 'cause I've never heard anyone else doing it) is to scrub the tire with a coarse abrasive cleanser (like OLD Comet...the "scratch free" stuff is useless), hot water and a toothbrush. Elbow grease, effort. De-shines ALL the tire, including down in the tread groves.
You're welcome.
I've done that too (honest).
It does take lots of elbow grease.I was also contemplating spraying the tread with Dullcote, to dull the grooves, then using sandpaper to to scuff the rest of the tread, but I have not tried that.
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Tamiya Jar paint is nothing like the paint in the TS-series spray cans. Jars contain their "water-based" (mostly alcohol-based) acrylic paints, while the spray cans contain much hotter synthetic lacquers.
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Maybe it's just me, but it seems the majority of the responses deal with precision milling of metal material. The OP also wants to work with styrene. My gut tells me a Sherline might be overkill for styrene.
When making scale model parts (either 1:6 or 1:700 scale) precision is a good thing. It is not an overkill for styrene. Like Art I have owned my Sherline since the '80s and have upgraded it multiple times.
This 1:160 (N scale) model I built has the headlights turned out of styrene rod (painted with Alclad II brass) while the bell, siren, and the water nozzle (on the running board) are turned out of brass.
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Steven, that is a brilliant idea. I too struggle with putting foil on my kits and never thought about using painters tape as a guide.
I can vouch vouch for that technique too. I've been using it for years and I thought I invented it.
But obviously others had the same bright idea. The other good thing about that technique is that the tape automatically (and cleanly) pulls up the extra foil. -
I'm enjoying every new posts Harry - you really have the knack to build this large-scale kits well. They look like fine models, not like large toys (which often is the case with large scale kits).
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You are making some incredible progress Robert!
As far as the front light reflectors go, could you make them more parabolic shape to closer represent the 1:1 headlights? Thar will greatly add to the realism of the model. Headlights are one of those areas which are often not done correctly on models, destroying the realism.
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As Art mentioned, 3D printed prototype mock-up are already being extensively used in the industry. 3D-printed masters for resin or pewter cast models are also already used by several companies. In time I'm sure that more and more companies (or cottage industries) will be using that technology. There are several 3D printing technologies and dozens of printers which vary in printting resolution from really coarse to so fine that the printed items look like they have been injection-molded. Of course the cost of the fine-resolution printouts are much higher than the low-res ones. But if used as a master, it pays to invest in a high-res printout.
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Thanks! These are one-off decals printed on a friend's color laser printer for my own model, I'm not going to print more or sell any.
I love the woodie look Bob! I you aren't planning on making more decals, how about sharing your decal artwork?
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I recall seeing his name in modeling magazines. I'm very sad to hear of his passing. My condolences to his family and friends.
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Wow! Scoring this kit for $41 is the steal of the century. I paid over $100 for mine and thought I had a good deal!
Oh cool! I guess I did get really lucky! http://www.ebay.com/itm/262669983929 There is another one currently on eBay with BiN price of $99 (I guess that is closer to the going price then).
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2-stroke engines have been running without conventional valves for probably 100 years. Cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, chainsaws, etc. . .
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FXD
As I understand, Shapeways uses ProJet HD 3000Plus printers for FUD and FXD printing.
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Dirt/grunge/mud/dust is usually tan/beige/gray, so using washes or chalks using those colors will give you the effect you are looking for.
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You're killin' me Harry! I was really good not buying any more kits (I have more than I can build in my lifetime, and here you go and post your build of this car. I was ale to resist until you showed lacing the wheels. Those are gorgeous! Now I want to get that model kit - even if only to learn this very interesting lacing technique to make it work on some custom wheels I would like to make for some of my other kits.
So I went on eBay and I found one of these kits listed, ending at 11pm EDT. I ended up gettign it for $41. I think I got a bargain. Now I can learn that lacing technique (and maybe even build this cool model someday). -
I'm a bit confused about this voltage gauge thing. In the cars I have dealt with a voltage gauge is a voltmeter hooked up to the main power distribution junction in the car. It doesn't specifically read the alternator but the overall health of the 12V electrical system. If that type of a gauge dropped to zero volts your car would stall as there would not be any power available to power the engine ignition or rest of the cars electrical circuit. Usually when alternator no longer charges the battery the voltage drops from around 14V to under 12V (since it is running just from the battery).
Another Social Security phone scam
in The Off-Topic Lounge
Posted
Neither a land-line (which is what I use) or caller ID will stop this craziness. 99% of the illegitimate sales or phishing calls spoof CallerID (one even showed my own phone number calling itself!). I'm also on the Do Not Call Registry and that doesn't seem to help. So, it doesn't matter whether you use a land-line or a cell phone - they still find you. I never used to pick up the phone but just having the phone ringing while I sleep (work night shift) or even when I'm up is annoying, What I started doing recently is to pick up the phone and not say anything. If it is a human calling they will eventually say "hello". It is is a robo-call it waits for me to say something first before giving me the spiel. For those I just let the headset sit on the table for 15 minutes or so. They don't seem to be able to hang up so they have to pay someone for the 15 minute call. That is probably nothing for them but it makes me feel better.
As for the IRS scam calls, you should check this page and report them here.