peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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You're killin' me Harry! I was really good not buying any more kits (I have more than I can build in my lifetime, and here you go and post your build of this car. I was ale to resist until you showed lacing the wheels. Those are gorgeous! Now I want to get that model kit - even if only to learn this very interesting lacing technique to make it work on some custom wheels I would like to make for some of my other kits.
So I went on eBay and I found one of these kits listed, ending at 11pm EDT. I ended up gettign it for $41. I think I got a bargain. Now I can learn that lacing technique (and maybe even build this cool model someday).
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I'm a bit confused about this voltage gauge thing. In the cars I have dealt with a voltage gauge is a voltmeter hooked up to the main power distribution junction in the car. It doesn't specifically read the alternator but the overall health of the 12V electrical system. If that type of a gauge dropped to zero volts your car would stall as there would not be any power available to power the engine ignition or rest of the cars electrical circuit. Usually when alternator no longer charges the battery the voltage drops from around 14V to under 12V (since it is running just from the battery).
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Cool diorama - I see nothing wrong. There are a lot more explicit and bloody scenes on network TV (do we still call those stations "network TV")?
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What has been seen cannot ever be unseen! Yuck! It is even uglier than a Pontiac Aztek!
Until now I have never seen any photos of the real car or the model. Now I don't ever want to see it again (although I seem to notice some vague resemblance to a Fiero, which is a decent looking car).
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Is it their FUD or FXD material? At least that is what those are called in USA.
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The diorama is really well done (you have the knack to capture motion frozen in time) but the the photos seem distorted somehow (like the aspect ratio is off).
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Before anyone gets too critical, the red car I showed was done that way by design for the Rat Rod CBP.
It was never intended to look like a concourse restoration. You're probably the first to notice that detail.
It is your model Steve, so you can obviously do as you please. I was just pointing out what jumps right out at me (maybe I'm extra anal, but that's usually a good thing when building models).
It just seems lately that I have seen not properly aligned lenses on several factory-stock models. If I was judging them I would deducts points for that. -
This one was build with the M.V. lenses:
This one was build with Krystal Klear over the molded lenses:
(unfortunately the Krystal Klear wasn't totally dired when I took this pic)
-Steve
The MV lenses have very realistic looking reflectors, but the smooth lenses don't look realistic. Headlamp lenses (used in the standard U.S. specs headlamps) have optical facets molded in the glass. Lack of that detail really kills the realism. I've scribed the facets into the MV lenses in the past but it is a tedious process which (since it is done freehand) is not perfect.
Speaking of the headlight lens optics (facets), I see lots of modelers not paying attention to how those facets line up. In real cars the headlamp unit is keyed to only fit in the headlamp holder one way. That is because the headlamp optics produce asymmetrical beam of light. If not installed properly the headlight could blind incoming cars, or not illuminate the road properly. The general rule is that the majority of the lines (facets) in the lens need to be perpendicular to the road surface. If they are not the realism is lost again. The above model has the lines in the lenses not perpendicular to the road. It might look cool, but it is not realistic for a road vehicle.
It doesn't take any extra time or effort to properly position the kit-supplied lenses, but it makes a big difference in realism.
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Is Humbrol Varnish a true varnish (resin dissolved in alcohol), or is "varnish" just a generic British term for a clear lacquer or enamel?
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I sprayed Humbrol enamel on a Moebius Chrysler 300 body with no primer, and didn't experience any crazing.
Well yeah, that is a plastic-compatible paint specifically made for plastic (styrene) models.
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Real - that was easy.
For me the stitching on the back of the seats looks 1:1 scale. But if I'm wrong and it is a model, it will be large scale (1:8 or larger).
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Same experience here. The paint dries but remains soft for years. When I contacted Jameston he sent me a bottle of hardener to mix with the paint. But since I din't need to paint anything at that time I just let the bottle of hardener sit. It ended up hardening in the bottle. So I guess the non-clearcoat paints are 2-part paints which need hardener (catalyst?) to set them hard. I prefer less hassle hobby-paints or automotive touch-up paints.
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As a bit of a packrat I save various glass bottles from used up hobby paints like Testors and Floquil. Alos the glass Gloss and Dullcote bottles (those IIRC are 1.5 oz.). I have also bought empty Floquil bottles (from Micro-Mark). Another source of all sorts of glass bottles (and zillion other packaging items) is http://www.freundcontainer.com/ . I buy bottles, cans and jars from them. Surplus materials vendors also sometimes have all sorts of small bottles available. Check out https://www.sciplus.com/ .
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Greg have you thought about contacting Moebius?
I have a feeling that their reply will be to "use plastic-compatible paints". Honestly, we are playing Russian roulette every time we use hot automotive or general-purpose spray paints.
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Not bad. Just make sure that the lighting and the angle of the shadows on your model matches the shadows in the backdrop photo. Otherwise human eye will subconsciously pick that up and the photo won't look "right". Of course the scale height of the camera needs to be similar to the camera's height in the 1:1 photo so the perspective is similar.
As far as the base/driveway, you could simply cut off all the visible pavement in the photo then you won't have to worry about matching the base to the pavement in the photo.
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Buffing will not polish out Metalizer chrome. It depends 100% on the glossiness of the black base coat and on a semi-dry application of Metalizer. Metalizer's metallic flakes need to lay flat on the glossy undercoat to produce a polished metallic finish. If the base coat is not very glossy then no matter how much Metalizer you apply, the "chromey" finish will not happen. If you apply the Metalizer too heavily or too wet then the metallic flakes will no flatten down on the glossy base - again, you won't get the "chromey" finish.
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Old CA (superglue) will dissolve in carefully applied acetone.
Keep in mind that acetone will also craze/melt polystyrene or ABS plastic (which is what most model kits are made of).
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Chunk the excess baggage and make room for other stuff.
From my experience I can say that this is easier said than done.
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He's either lost what was left of his mind, or he's totally trolling us...
I have a strong suspicion that the price is just a typo. I've seen similar typos in other eBay listings. Most likely a $20.00 item. Check his eBay store and you will see that his other items have "normal" prices. Bit inflated for my taste, but still more reasonable than two grand!
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Congrats on winning those awards - well deserved!
Next year's show will be at the same location, IIRC, October 8, 2017.
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Another model of an oddball vintage vehicle from Harry - I love it!
It just seems lately that I have seen not properly aligned lenses on several factory-stock models. If I was judging them I would deducts points for that.
How do you highlight/wash something black?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Dirt/grunge/mud/dust is usually tan/beige/gray, so using washes or chalks using those colors will give you the effect you are looking for.