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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. Nope, those are both based on the Cadillac commercial chassis, which Caddy offered specifically for companies that would be converting them to ambulances, hearses, flower cars, etc.

    As previously stated, the Eldorado was a separate model, specifically the top trim level of the 2-door hardtop and convertible (Seville and Biarritz, can't remember for sure which was which).  Main visual difference was different side trim.  Google 1959 and 1960 Eldorado and you should be able to see the obvious differences.  This brings us full circle to the first comment on this issue: the Ecto-1A ambulance diecast in the video is incorrectly labeled as an Eldorado on the card.  And yes,  I realize that 99% of the diecast collectors who will be buying it won't care...

    Point taken.

  2. You can do the same thing with "Laser Bond" glue.

    Squeeze in a drop, hit it with UV light & it's hardened in a couple of seconds.

    Steve

    I would be cautious with this one too. To begin with, it has a slightly amber tint and also since it is UV-cured, it does not (by design) have any UV protection, so it might also yellow in time.

  3. Be careful using 5 min. epoxy for gauge lenses! Over time especially if the gauges have a white background, the epoxy can yellow making your gauges appear yellow as well. :(

    Yes, I agree - I have experienced this problem few times and I no longer use any of the epoxy adhesives (especially the 5-minute type) to represent clear lenses.  Also, most epoxies have slight amber tint to begin with.  But I had it turn deep amber after several years.

  4. Hi Mike,

    Although I would caution depending on MCM for long term photo hosting as you never know what can happen to the Big Kahuna.

    If anybody solely use any online photo hosting site for the only copy of a photo, that is foolish. I would not feel sorry for them if they lost them.

    The only reason I upload photos to online sites it to share them with others. Mostly in online forums. I always have multiple copies stored locally (one on a live hard drive on my PC and couple of backups on removable media).  I like the idea of hosting photos for a forum, on the forum itself - that way they will be viewable (in the posts) for as long as the forum is around.

  5. Some more trivia: That's the Eisenhower era. Actually, Interstates were also laid out with Civil Defense in mind...every XX number of miles had to have a straight stretch of YYYY feet so aircraft could land.

     

    I've have heard that too, but it seems that it is an urban legend.

    This is some good reading material: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interstate_Highway_System

    I also see this sign on I 93 North right before crossing from MA to NH.

    Eisenhower_Interstate_System_sign.jpg

  6. The 30AWG Wire Wrapping wire's outside diameter (with insulation) is about 0.016" or up to 0.020". That is good for representing the 1:24 scale high-performance ignition wire, but too thick for average pedestrian factory-stock model car.

    Detail Master sells 0.012" overall diameter ignition wire which is expensive but gives a better scale representation of the factory-stock wire.  I also use Detail Master 0.007" detail wire for ignition wires in 1:43 scale cars.  Pro-Tech also has some nice ignition wire. Those thinner wires are pretty much imposable to find in small quantities.

  7. Yes, many of the model train hobby items can be used for our hobby and vice versa (I dabble in many hobbies myself).

    Yes, the prices are usually higher when things like wire are bought from model railroad vendors instead of other sources (like industrial electrical suppliers).  The model railroad decoder wires are nice and flexible, but most are too thick for representing 1:24 plug wires. They are good for modeling thicker wires - like battery cables or for representing rubber hoses.

  8. You might be diluting the paint too much. Try thinning it less.

    Last time I did a grille black wash I used slightly thinned Testors flat black enamel (from the little square glass bottle). I wasn't too worried about the parts of the grill which are supposed to remain shiny getting some paint on them. Right after the paint dried (became flat), I wiped the surface of the grill with a piece of old T-shirt slightly moistened with Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid).  I suppose that the Testors paint thinner would have worked too.   The trick is not to wait too long - if you let the paint dry really well and harden, it will be difficult to remove.

  9. I cant say I have noticed any issues or had to use any sort of "work arounds" to get Ebay to work, it just does.

    I guess there are many definitions of what "works".

    The site is extremely bloated with unneeded functionality and hard to navigate. Don't get me started on the searches.  I wish we could go back about 12 years. At that time eBay was simple and easy to navigate.  I used to spend a lot of time there back then - now I mostly avoid it. They also try very hard to become another Amazon with the type of listings they now allow.  No more being a worldwide flea market - it is mostly full-time professional sellers.

     

  10. Different metals, different but subtle shades of silver.  The plating used on model car parts at the factory is actually vaporized aluminum, and aluminum is a very "whitish"silver in color, but has been accepted for decades for replicating the chromium plating on real cars.  FWIW, chromium plating isn't a pure silver color either, but rather it has just a hint of blue to it, when compared side-by-side with real silver (which of course is true silver in color).  Place a piece of polished aluminum next to clean and polished chrome plating, the difference is quite visible indeed.  BMF is right in there--it's bright metal for sure, but it's definitely not chromium--chromium is too hard, too springy to ever be used as we use BMF.

    Virtually all automobile body side trim, from the late 1930's onward (save for some cars in the era 1958 to about 1962) were fitted with anodized aluminum side spears (Chevrolet 1958-60 was a prime example) which is not only a bit dull in sheen, but very whitish in sheen as well.  Polished stainless steel, with its 10%or more nickel content, is actually slightly "brownish" in shade--if you compare a mint-uncirulated US Nickel to any silver coin (or sterling silver even) you can readily see that difference.

    Actually Art, BMF's original chrome foil has a warm (slightly yellow or brown) tone. It reminds me of nickel plating more than chrome (which as you said is slightly blue).  I think that some early car manufacturers started using nickel plating at the end of the brass era.

  11. Acetate/blister packs for windows, and either clear epoxy or Bondic for small parts like head light/tail light lenses.

    I think we use the name "Acetate" like "Kleenex" is used to describe facial tissues. I don't think that actual Acetate has been used by hobbyists for the last 40 years or longer. The clear films we use nowadays are Polystyrene, PET, PETG, Acrylic, Lexan and few others. While they are all transparent, they are much more stable than Acetate.

  12. The Chrome BMF (not the Ultra-Chrome) has a warm tone to it. It always has. It is normal.  The color of BMF chrome foil in your photo is what I would expect to see (when compared to a kit's "chromed" part).

    That is because it is neither chrome nor aluminum - it is some sort of custom alloy of soft and pliable metals. There might be some tin in that alloy because, unlike aluminum foil it can be melted with a regular soldering iron.  But because it is a special alloy, it is very easy to work with and it conforms (stretches and compresses) over curved surfaces.

    If you really want the chrome-like cool tone then you would have to use the Ultra-Bright foil. That one seems to be made from aluminum which has a more chrome-like color, but it is much stiffer and harder to get to conform to curved surfaces.  Another alternative would be to use the Alclad II Chrome paint method, Spaz Stix or a Molotov chrome pen.  Or if you are really building a contest-quality model then you could sent those parts to be "chromed" (which is the same method of vacuum aluminizing used by the model companies for their "chromed" parts).

     

  13. While what Photobucket did is really underhanded I doubt  they will go out of business. There are probably still millions of users (both free and with paid subscriptions) that use Photobucket for their Photo storage and sharing. After all, they only disabled 3rd party hosting. You can still view user's albums on the site and share links to the photos in emails, etc.

    I have a free account and was only using them for 3rd party hosting, so I'm no longer using them. I left my account active in case they decide that what they did was stupid, but I'm not holding my breath. The forum sites I frequent now allow for local photo storage so I'm slowly updating my old posts with locally stored photos.

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