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Posts posted by peteski

  1. I asked one of the aftermarket resin casters if they would make those wheels (since the '77 Pacer was just released and it includes different kind of wheels). He didn't say "no" so I figured that would try to gauge interest in those wheels. But It seems that there isn't much interest (probably not enough for the resin caster to make it worthwhile for him).  It makes sense that '77 Hornet used the same wheels (those were actually wheel covers for steel wheels, correct)?

  2. Another voice against the Ultra-Bright foil.   Actually it was the reason my model ended up on the BMF packaging.

    It was in the 1990s when BMF started having competition. Detail Master started producing their own foil and the sales pitch was that it was much shinier and brighter than BMFs.  I bought some of the Detail Master foil and it stunk!  Yes, it was brighter and shinier than BMF chrome foil, but it was also much thicker, less stretchy and didn't adhere well.  I only tried to use it once and ended up peeling it off and using the BMF chrome foil.

    After that BMF introduced their new Ultra Chrome foil.  They also touted it as being more like real chrome.  I suspect that was their answer to the competition.  So I bought a sheet of BMF Ultra Chrome. It was almost as crappy as the Detail master. Same problems as I described above.  I still have the unused sheet (I should chuck it).

    Seeing BMF producing the Ultra Chrome foil made me worry that they will discontinue their regular Chrome foil (which while not as shiny was a pleasure to work with) and I wrote them a letter including couple of photos of my models. I asked for them to continue producing the regular Chrome foil and showing them that it looked great on my models.  I received a reply (all by snail mail back then) stating that they had no intention of discontinuing the regular Chrome foil. El (the BMF proprietor) also asked me if he could use the photos of my models in BMF ads and packaging. Of course I agreed and the rest is history. As a "payment" I received several sheets of BMF foils, but the best payment is seeing my model on every BMF envelope!:D



    I am still using those decades-old sheets (I'm a slow builder) and til recently I didn't even know that BMF introduced "new and improved" foil. But from what I see, the new foil is just as good as the original Chrome.

  3. In the past, before I logged out of the forum I would mark the site as read.  When I returned and logged in again, The forums containing new posts show green "UNREAD" labels. Then within each forum the threads which contained added contents since I logged out would also have similar green tags.  If I clicked on the green tag it would get me to the oldest "new" contents posted in that thread.  It was very handy to catch up on the new posts.


    Sometime last week the "UNREAD" tags have disappeared from the individual posts.  They are still there for each forum which has new contents, but not the threads themselves.  So there is no good way I know to get to the oldest New contents of the individual threads.  Nothign has changed on my end (same browser, no updates, etc.)  I have the same problem on 2 different computer using different browsers.   I suspect the change was done on the forum website.

    Anybody else noticed this?  Any viable alternative for viewing new messages in a thread?

  4. Frustrated that this very enjoyable thread is devolving into racist and bigoted bullsquirt.

    More photoshops please.

    Oh my!  Someone making something out of nothing. My goodness. I'm a Pollack and d-a-m-n proud of it.  I also enjoy good Polish jokes. Self-deprecating? Maybe. Not a bigot.  If you can't take my joke (and see it as racist or bigoted, then you are seeing something that isn't there).  If we all have to turn into humorless touchy-feely drones then I might as well hide in my workshop and stay of the Interwebs. :(

    I do agree with you on one thing - more Photoshops lease.

    PS. You probably won't find http://www.engrish.com/ amusing either - I do.  I even submitted some entries from when I visited Japan.  None of it was racially motivated or bigoted. 

  5. I use both - hobby knife with #11 blade about 90% of the time (sometimes with other blades) and a scalpel the other 10%.  At some point hobby mail order companies (like Hobby Expo and Micro Mark) used to carry scalpel handles and blades. I'm not sure if they still do.  Yes scalpel handles are smaller and thinner (they don't have a cylindrical-shape handle).  The shape of the handle makes it easier to judge the angle of the blade. Their #11 blades are a bit smaller than hobby version and have finely honed blade. I also took a disposable scalpel (a #11 blade permanently attached to a plastic handle), trimmed the handle to about 1/2 length, and made it into a replaceable blade scalpel.  That is my BMF tool: the short and very light handle gives me much finer control while trimming BMF. I use stainless blades and paint the tip with black Sharpie to make it easier to see.

  6. Here's my arsenal of CA aplicators. They are made from sawing needles and acrylic rod.  It was not my original idea - I read about these decades ago in a magazine  (probably FineScale Modeler). Also disposable Micro-Brushes as applicators for CA accelerator.   When the needles get crusted up with hardened CA I use a hobby knife (with an older blade) to scrape the glue off. It doesn't take long and I like the ability to precisely apply just a tiny bit of glue where needed.


    I'm not sure how well a calligraphy pen will work. Thicker CA might not flow easily out of it and the thin stuff will probably start crusting up in it (especially if the ambient air is humid).

  7. I thought your question was interesting so I looked it up. This is my understanding. The symbol # has always been known as a hash. It's also called the pound sign, number sign and an octothorpe (how 'bout that one) . Now it is used in social media applications like Twitter and Instagram to "tag" terms that are being searched in order to find them easier hence the term "hashtag". So technically I just removed the hash when I searched 1117. Sometimes you have to search several different ways but in the end Google knows everything. I'll count this as having learned something new today. 

    Yes, that is true - "#" has been used long before computers and "hash" is one of its names. It was (and still is) even used on the TouchTone telephone keypad along with the "splat" or asterisk. But like I mentioned, when I see it, the first thing that comes to my mind is that it indicates that the following number is some sort of part number. Or from my Unix background a hash symbol indicates that the rest of the line in a script is a comment (ignored).  The "tag"meaning for me is far, far behind those. But I don't use Twitter or Instagram, so that's my excuse. I do know what hash tags are - they're just no something that first pops into my mind.

  8. That's not been my experience, Peter.  I did some clear "lenses" over molded-in-place chrome headlights on a couple of grilles about 9 months ago, they are still water-clear.


    Place a small puddle (about 1/4" diameter) on a piece of white paper (ink jet or laser printer paper). Don't make it too thin ( around 1/16" or a bit less). When in its liquid state it is perfectly colorless. Set it with the UV light. After it is set you can see that it picked up very slight amber tint. Very slight, but noticeable sitting on the white paper. At least that has been my experience.

  9. Has anyone tried using bondic on a painted surface?

    Has anybody noticed the name of the Bondic website: Not a Glue!  They have a nifty chart of what tasks Bondic can handle at Bondic-vs-glue . They also have an extensive FAQ page.  I recommend reading it. Here are few examples:

    If applied to smooth surfaces it seems to come off in one piece or chipped off easily but what if the surface is rough?
    The rougher the surface the better! Bondic® isn’t a glue, it has some adhesive properties but it sticks to smooth areas using a lot of surface tension rather than stickiness. If you can let the liquid Bondic® get into cracks and crevices then it will hold incredibly well.

    Can Bondic® bond dissimilar materials. Specifically high impact polystyrene and sand paper?
    It will work great in and on sandpaper and if you create some rough areas on the polystyrene that will allow the Bondic® to grip and you can get the LED UV light onto both, your good to go.

    How well does Bondic® work PVC tubing, Kevlar, or polypropylene?
    Bondic® works very well PVC tubing, Kevlar, and polypropylene, you just need to follow our principles. The principle of sealing or attaching things with Bondic® is based on how the surface is prepared and generally you want to make a ring around the item to create strength. Sometimes you even drill holes in both surfaces to create extra strength

  10. I've been drivin' for over fifty years, so I really don't need any voice in my vehicle tellin' me anything at all.

    Today's cars won't talk to you, but will hit the brakes, turn the steering wheel and even parallel park your car for you. Actually some cars with speech recognition capability will also have a 2-way conversation with you. How's that for progress? :D

  11. I want to repeat what has already been stated few times, yet the gauge is mentioned again as a valid diameter measurement.

    WIRE GAUGE (AWG) IS THE SPECIFICATION FOR THE DIAMETER OF THE METAL CONDUCTOR. It does not include the insulation diameter (which is what we really need for our use in models).  Insulation thickness is not standardized or universal.  It will vary depending on the manufacturer, type of plastic used and on the voltage rating of the wire.  The overall diameter of the wire and insulation is usually not specified by the manufacturers (or extremely hard to find).  So while knowing the gauge of the wire only gives a rough idea about the relative thickness of the  overall diameter.

    Then by the same token when using non-insulated or enameled craft wire then the AWG size is a useful measurement. But in my experience I very seldom use that type of wire for modeling rubber tubing, hoses or insulated wires.

  12. ummm, not necessarily true.;)


    The way I interpreted Harry's comment was that on your model the the decal goes right over the door line and it is solid red, even in the gap between the door and the fender. On the real car that is not done - the gap shows up as a dark line. If you were to take a a fine dark color marker and ran it in the door line, or apply a dark wash, the model would look more realistic.

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