peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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No, not really hard, BUT moving the can in such a fashion that the ball hits the same basic spot repeatedly, coupled with the fact that I "whip" the can back up which then slams the ball against the bottom, rather than "rattling" it.
You mean the up-and-down hard-stroking motion? It is a natural motion for male Homo Sapiens.
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Anyway,thanks for the answers,maby nothing sinister about it but i see red flags all over the place with this method. But that is just me.
There are literally millions of packages shipped using that method without any problems. I repeat, when you print out a postage-paid label with tracking info at home using the post office website (or an app) the tracking info update shows that a label was created, not that the item was shipped. The label can be created to ship the item next day or from a post office different than the ZIP code in the shipping address shows. But only after the package is accepted by a postal employee the tracking info shows it being accepted by the post office.
I don't see any red flags in this process.
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Since we got into other dimensions, I believe that we still know very little of about the universe which surrounds us. I also suspect that our brains are incapable of comprehending the actual composition of the universe. I also suspect that partially because of that our brains do something to compensate, but that would be crossing the line into religion, so I won't continue.
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I too use an apron , but I just use push pins along the bottom to hold it to the work bench and leave it there , just slip the top over my head whenever I sit down.
When I'm sanding or filing parts the shavings go in the apron. With Velcro I can unhook it from the bench while wearing it, hold it up and and then dump all the shavings in the trash container.
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Welp, it wasn't how much I was shaking but how hard. I was slamming the ball against the bottom pretty hard.
Kinda weird to explain.
I know exactly what you mean (the high acceleration of the agitating ballz).
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Sorry for how I'm sure this is gonna sound...
Is this all just about time and the general lack of patience... or, is there a real genuine advantage to using this process? Is it all about the paint... I realize that most fillers dry fairly quickly to begin with - so is there any advantage there?
Seriously, not trying to be or sound like an a** or anything... It's just that my schedule often allows me a week or two at a time before I get back to my bench - so if it's purely just a time thing... ... ...
To me the reduced wait time is important. Not just for car bodies but for some small parts which require multiple colors and multiple masking operations. I also think that it makes the paint finish harder than when just drying at room temperature. I don't just use it for drying paint - I dry the parts after washing them, I cure resin parts in it (again they set quicker and harder). I also often use it to warm up the container with paint stripper with the parts immersed in it (to make the stripping solution more aggressive).
So I guess it all depends on your building techniques.
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Just as I suspected all along (ignoring the naysayers) - you guys have some really strong arms!
Easy does it!I'm also wondering if the newer can bottoms (within the last 20 years or so) are made from softer steel (which makes it easier to dent them by shaking).
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Mark, looks like you have duplicate threads on this? I answered your question on the other thread.
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You could replace the 12V wall-wart with a standard 9V transistor radio battery. (does anybody still call these batteries "transistor radio batteries"?).
But the bulbs will glow a bit dimmer (9V is less than 12V) and the battery has a fairly small capacity so it won't last very long. How long? I can't tell without knowing how much current the bulbs would be consuming at 9V.Another possibility woudl be to get a battery holder which holds 8 AA cells. That gives 12V and the capacity of AA batteries is much greated than the 9V battery so that woudl give you full brightness for much longer time than when using a 9V battery.
You could also get yourself a surplus 12V rechargeable gel-cell lead-acid battery. Something like this one . It would probably power your lights for couple of days on a single charge. But you need to have a charger for it (standard car battery charger will work well, or get a dedicated charged like this ). But you need to be careful with this type of battery because if you accidentally short it out it can supply enough current to heat up the shorting piece of wire (possibly to the point of melting or burning the insulation).
Another alternative is to replace the light bulbs with white-color LEDs (light Emitting Diodes). They are bright, don't heat up, and use very little current. Those you could easily power from that 9V battery for hours. But they are a bit more complex to hook up properly. If you do this Google search you'll find lots of helpful information on how to hook up LED
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Thank you for the write up. I am suprised that the seller can generate tracking numbers before the physically takes the item to the P.O.
Then i would say Ebay have many honest sellers,still have in favour of being scammed on there. I have seen people getting angry at sellers
in the feedback section where they have bought model-kit parts and assumed it to be 1:1 real car parts
That is how these services work and have been that way since the capability of printing shipping labels from home was introduced. Not just for eBay. There is nothing sinister about it.
Since the label is printed through the USPS website, that action is recorded in the tracking info. If the recipient looks at the tracking for that package at that time, it doesn't say that the item was shipped but just that the shipping information was received by USPS. The person generating the label also has a capability to print it couple of days in advance. The next tracking update will be when the label is actually scanned by the clerk or mail carrier who physically receives the package. That again updates the tracking info stating that the package was accepted by the post office. Then as the package goes through various parts of its journey the tracking info is appropriately updated. USPS is not as good in updatign the status with all of the intermediate steps as is FedEx or UPS, but the tracking info is still acceptable.
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I use an old jeweler's and watch-maker's trick where I wear an apron with Velcro sawn-in on the bottom edge, and pieces of Velcro mounted under my workbench. When I sit down down to work at my workbench I attach the apron under the table. That way all the parts I drop end up in the apron. No need to look for them on the floor - just pick them up from the apron. When I need to get up I just unhook the Velcro.
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So theres no foot brake ?
Didn't cars of this vintage have a brake lever instead of a pedal to apply the (mechanical-linkage) brakes?
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I thought I was the only person who got a kick out of Are You Being Served. As for old movies...... Sci Fi and war movies.
No way - there are lots of Americans enjoying Brit-humor. I also like One Foot In The Grave, Keeping Up Appearances, Fawlty Towers and of course Monty Python among others.
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Nice job (as expected).
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I prefer USPS Priority Mail. It is tracked (although not really well) but good enough for eBay and PayPal. It is quicker than UPS ground and price is comparable.
Most of my eBay purchases comes through Priority Mail. I haven't sold anything on eBay for a while now but back when I was selling you could print shipping label right from eBay or PayPal (using the funds received from the buyer, then just drop it in the mail or have it picked up by mail carrier. Shipping costs have gone up steadily and it is just part of the transaction. Even if the model was sold for $5, you can expect to pay more for shipping. That is normal. You can offer free shipping but they you have to price your items accordingly (not to lose you shirt on them). I have never tried the free shipping option while selling. Make sure to offer combined shipping costs - that will bring buyers buying multiple items which you can ship in one package. Everybody makes out on that.
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Wow Tom, you brought a 2-year-old thread back to life!
My user name is the nickname I had for years. A combination of my first and last names. Avatar is a random photos I took at one of the car shows. It is hard to see in such a small zise but it is a photo of some Rat-Rod's engine at the show with a bottle of Jack Daniels used as a coolant overflow tank. I just thought it was a nice touch.
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I am a licensed Mortician
But are you practicing?
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Few years ago I got into older TV series (bought them on DVDs). Things like the complete sets of Get Smart, Are You Being Served, Alf, The Avengers, Space 1999. I also like watching old series on MeTV.
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I hate when folks insist on going through the "fast" checkout line at the store with way more items than what's posted on the sign right above their heads. The sign said 15 items or less . . .
Speaking of that, I had a double-take yesterday while at a local supermarket. The sign stated: 15 ITEMS OR FEWER! After all these years someone finally used the proper grammar!
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I can't really add anything else that has not already been said here, but I'll reiterate that the attitude is very important. Your body has healing powers and it can do wonderful things. I don't know you very well, but from what I've seen you seem to have a positive attitude. If you can, keep thinking positive thoughts.
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Ah, so he used the good-ol' abrasive removal method. Brilliant!
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All of the platers out there specifically state that they will not guarantee the finish of resin parts.
I'm sure that there is a reason for that disclaimer.
Yeah, they are just covering their a$$. Because they don't want customers to complain about the quality, even though it was really the un-plated resin part which was inferior resulting in poor finish. With few exceptions, resin parts are imperfect. Like it was said, not perfectly smooth surface (uneven or with pinholes) and often not perfectly cleaned - some of the mold release agent is still on the parts. That is how I see it.
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I love it! You figured out a way to build a pristine model tank and have a valid setting for it. Now that is something I could try myself as I hate (and I suck at) weathering.
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I sent a pair of resin '61 Olds bumpers to Kustom Khrome with my last batch.
While they turned out "ok", they were no where near the quality of the styrene parts.
Steve
Were they prepped (cleaned) properly? Was their surface as smooth as equivalent plastic parts would be? What were the specifics of the problem? Vacuum-metalizing will not hide any flaws. It will actually make the flaws more apparent.
Tiny Decals
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
I usually use very small pointy paintbrush (like 4/0 or 10/0) moistened with water. I pick up the decal with the point of the brush and apply it to a drop of water placed earlier on the model where the decal is supposed to go.