peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Caswell Plating has a wide range of small electroplating kits for hobbyists (and lots of supplies for larger jobs too).
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Interesting, the similar MM version is ~$13 were as the Archer is ~$18. So much for mark ups I suppose.
Maybe then like SfanGoch suspects, those could be cheap Chinese knockoffs (or a similar product line). (I added the "Chinese" part).
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I blame it on the sledzie.
That smells kind of fishy if you ask me.
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If it's anything like the 1:1 replicas formerly made by LS, it's probably made from ABS. They weren't intended to be painted after assembly.
ABS is a type of styrene plastic. Organic solvent based paints stick to it very well with no scuffing (again as long as the surface is clean). Some automotive models are also molded in ABS, as are model trains (and I had no problem painting either).
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The hood fit of this kit brings up an interesting point that I have mentioned in other threads. Harry, I know you do not compete but your models are definitely contest worthy and no doubt contest winners. I would bet money that if you were to put this model on a contest table, spectators as well as judges, would say "what a nice model, too bad the hood does not fit right". But the fact is the hood on the prototype didn't fit right either. My point is, older race cars are seldom pristine racing machines and if you build a correct replica, you are more than likely going to get dinged in a model contest. I have actually placed a picture of the real race car's "wart" next to my model so that the judges could see that my model was built to replicate the real car.
That is why there is a "documented replica" class in the model contest my club puts on. You provide photographic documentation of the prototype car you modeled and it is judged (among other things) on how close to the prototype car your model is. The ill-fitting hood would actually earn you points!
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Now this thread is getting really BLAHSKI_BLAHSKI_BLAHSKI silly!
EDIT: and I've edited nuthin'
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And a little reminder that "distinctive" is not necessarily the same as "good"
YUCK! I always wondered what were they thinking when they approved this vehicle for production. The more contemporary frog-eyed Nissan Juke seems to be in the same category as Aztek.
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Yes, that kit has amazing amount of detail. I also have one of the large tour buses Revell made few years back. Again, lots of well-made parts. One of the reasons I haven't even started either one is that I have no place to display them.
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Harry, the MRI machine is so loud because it is pounding you with a very strong magnetic field. You are basically sitting right in a center of a very powerful electromagnet. Probably much more powerful than the ones which pick up entire cars in junk yards. When they turn on the current, it the windings make that loud noise. They had you remove all metal objects before going into the tube, right?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physics_of_magnetic_resonance_imaging (very interesting read). -
I can see we have a person here that likes to hijack others thread
who ever wrote Blah Blah and so on in my posting your are a real funny guy however o know how to hijack a thread or to say edit the thread I know who you are here is a clue HIgh..
Don, this forum is family-friendly and it has an auto-censoring feature which changes any words in the post which are on its "naughty" words list into BLAH_BLAH. So, nobody edited your post except for the forum software itself.
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To be accurate, that is a subway ventilation grating. This is a sewer (manhole) cover
Even a sewer manhole cover is made in India?! This country is in a deep (sewer) hole!
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A Corvair with a hormonal deficiency...
Are you calling it a midget?! It is a cute "baby Corvair".
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Those look just like Archer rivet decals. Micro-mark often resells products from other companies (often charging a markup). Archer has a wide selection of 3-D decals besides rivets. They sell things like weld lines and raised numbers too.
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Why do we need to sand plastic? I good wash should work really well to get it prepped for paint. Of course if there are flaws or flash, that needs to be sanded off and smoothed, but no need to sand the entire body. I have never sanded the entire plastic body before painting (but I do give them a really good wash in dishwasher detergent without any hand moisturizers in it). Organic solvent based paints (even the mild plastic-compatible ones) have plenty of "tooth" to bond really well to bare un-sanded plastic.
But if the plastic gun is made of some slippery solvent-resistant plastic, then I guess the only good option I see is to sandblast it. I have a badger Air-Eraser (wuth aluminum-oxide abrasive powder) for jobs like that. Then there is a adhesion-promoter which comes in a spray can. It is designed to be sprayed on plastic car parts (like a flexible bumper cover) before painting it with the final color.
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That is so wicked cool!
If that is 0 scale, the Shapeways model probably cost a pretty penny!
I rode on that train years ago when they were still running all-steam. What an experience! On the way down the conductor asked for volunteers to operate the car's handbrake, so I stepped forward. I had a blast! The car is not coupled to the locomotive (I was told for safety reasons). Gravity simply keeps it tightly pushed against the locomotive. The game the conductor has me play was to operate the handbrake in such a way to keep the car's buffer separated from the loco's buffer by few inches. It was tough at first, but then I got a hang of it.
Yes those locos have a slanted boiler since they always operate on a steep incline. Here is a photo of a real one:
For additional info click here.
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No photoshopping, Pete. It's one of a series of pictures from a "branding" photo shoot for F.E. Castleberry:
Well then, that explains the artsy-type photo with a shallow depth of field. Still, it just doesn't look right to me.
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My irk today is the emission test/tax. I am the original owner of a 2004 Dodge diesel that has tested zero or next to zero emissions. I was just told they won't test it because it has no catalytic converter. It never had one from the factory and still put out next to nothing emissions. I had unkind words with the technician and plan to find someone knowledgeable with 2003/04 Cummins that run so clean catalytic converters were not necessary. By the way, they were only required on newer models because of regulations not need. I hate government!
Government is ok - it is the stupid clueless government that irks us, right?
That makes no sense to me. If a 2004 truck was sold with out cat. converter and they require one now, shouldn't it be grandfathered? Or do they expect owners of ever such truck to have a cat. converter retrofitted at their own expense? That is weird.
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I remember these. It is just so cute!
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Looks pretty good.
Is it 1:24 or 1:25 scale? Who made the kit?
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"Today, I saw 36yo Harrison hopping on his pogo stick to go buy sustainable locally brined pickles. So I suplexed him onto the Belt Pkwy."
Something about this photo looks Photoshopped to me. For one, there is no shadow on the street. Then I don't know how far this guy can bounce over the cobblestones without the pogo-stick getting wedged in a gap between them.
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I used to do that but always found it difficult (impossible?) to remove all the tiny steel fragments it left. Now I use a fine Scotchbrite pad for that, with the same or even superior results. And no steel threadlets left.
And here's an interesting factoid about Scotchbrite: A standard way to remove minor rust from a firearm for decades has been to rub it with fine steel wool, which takes the rust right off, but not the blued finish, for some reason. But DON'T do this with a Scotchbrite, as it WILL remove bluing, and faster than you'd believe!
I also use those Scotchbrite pads instead of steel wool (I don't own a gun).
As far as the bluing goes, I suspect that it is a fairly hard coating (harder than the metal used in steel wool). That is why steel wool will clean the rust off but not touch bluing. But Scotchbrite pads are some sort of non-woven plastic fiber coated with fine abrasive material. I suspect that the abrasive material (aluminum oxide maybe?) is harder than the bluing, so it abrades it.
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Well Skip, you and Jimmy are true artists - most of the modelers are just ham-fisted butchers who love to take shortcuts.
After years of working with the leaf stuff you guys have the technique mastered. For me, as the ham-fisted modeler, the BMF stuff works just fine. But there's nothing wrong with someone doing their model chrome using silver leaf technique. I build models to have fun. I don't enjoy polishing the paint jobs, so I don't. Looking at Jimmy's tutorial I can see that I wouldn't enjoy spending the time on doing silver-leaf, so I won't. Yes, I can tell even without trying it myself - Jimmy's excellent photo-tutorial already told me what I needed to know for making my decision. But if that is something you or Jimmy enjoy doing - all the power to you.
I don't think that any posts on this thread were putting the silver-leaf-techinque down. At least know that I wasn't - I was simply saying that is is not for me.
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As new generations come of age, things change. We're just getting old.
I remember saying to myself that the battle was lost when in the '90s I started seeing pedestrian 4-door Japanese or German sedans souped-up to look and sound like race cars! Lowered suspension, beer-can exhaust, etc. High-performance 4-door sedan? Gimme a break!
At least some car companies recently brought back some real muscle cars and made them look like the real muscle cars from the '60s. But they probably doing it just to cater to the older generation (with money).
Awww C'mon!! Really??
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted · Edited by peteski
Here is a good example of the craziness the current eBay fee structure creates (no listing or initial price fees whether the item sells or not).
I've been watching this little gem on eBay for over 2 years now. Listed for $129 with no takers. They keep re-listing it continuously while in the meantime dozens of the same model are being sold in a range of $10- $40 dollars. Here is one currently available for $30 BYN.
Why do I care? Couple of years ago I started looking for that model (I used to own a full-size '77 T-Bird). I found that $129 listing but I kept on looking for something more affordable and found one for $15. When I asked the $129 seller what makes their model worth $129, they (as expected) ignored my comment. So I decided to watch their listing and they are still looking for that sucker who doesn't know any better and will buy a $129 Matchbox-size diecast toy.
If eBay had their old fee structure still in place, this type of activity would not be happening. It is as simple as that. And nobody can convince me that the $129 seller is not simply looking for a sucker who has more brains than money. I don't think that this is what "the American Way" to do business means.