peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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I like colors too but I keep buying white cars - to me any car looks elegant in white, and on white (unlike on black) dirt and dust doesn't show up). I also own a Caddy which is nice metallic blue with white Landau top and white interior.
While not very many, there are still wild colors available for contemporary cars. I see some bright oranges, blues, lime-greens, and even wild purples (all metallic). Also many new muscle cars come in pretty vivid colors.
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Sorry, I'm not buying the explanation, other wise the top of the can would show the same dents.
Cheers,
Lance
Lance, the top of the can has a different shape. It is not a smooth dome which can be dented as easily as the bottom.
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Kurwa! That is the the best kind of mustard to have with kielbasa wiejska or fried kielbasa biala with some czarny chleb and sałatka ziemniaczana.
I like the one from Cracovia also
Nice! I see you still have good taste (in whatever taste buds are still working after eating some of the hellish stuff)!
It's a good thing that the filter in this forum does not screen for foreign naughty words. -
These kits are rare and they fetch a lot of money on eBay. Does anybody know what happened to the tooling for that kit?
With all the recent MPC re-releases it would be nice to see that one brought back too.
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Oh yea, a course ground brown mustard. We used that in Nebraska on brats and polish sausages. Never bothered with a bun. Just a blob on a plate and dip the wiener in and enjoy! Also the only way to enjoy a runza! Lots of kids in the area who's names ended in -ski.
Now this is the good mustard!
I am a Pollack right off the boat (um, in my case it was a jet airliner), but I never heard of runza in my neck of the woods. Had to look it up. It is of Russian origin and it seems tasty.
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I'm 6'1", 145, same waist size since 87'. But I had a wicked forehand and double handed backhand back in the day
Hundred forty five? Eh, you're just a lightweight, with a wicked good arm!
This brings up something that I have been thinking about for years: Those agitators are made of glass and when they bang against metal, it might be possible that flakes of glass chip off and contaminate the paint. The ones I rescued from the empty cans (shaken much less vigorously) do show signs of impact with the metal (small flaws). I wonder what the onels in your cans look like. I wonder if you would be willing to cut open one of the cans with defromed bottom (after it is empty and depressurized of course). I'm curious about the condition of those agitators.
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Never been to NYC but know about mustard on fresh pretzels!!! A hot pretzel with good mustard is a treat!
Yes, In New England (at least in Eastern Mass. and Southern NH) we also put mustard on pretzels. Unfortunately many vendors only have the crappy yellow mustard. I like it darker with more kick to it.
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That is so cool - thanks for sharing! This is probably the youngest kid I've ever seen assembling a model kit (and allowed to use real tools). I have feeling that he will be a modeler for life (with the usual sabbaticals during his teens and when and if he starts a family).
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It looks more like a model than a real car.
I was thinking the same thing.
It seems to be a mash-up of various kit parts (like someone kitbashed a model). It has somewhat Open GT-esque flavor to it (plus bunch of other flavors thrown in).
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Wow! This thread has been the most amusing (and interesting) threads I have read in a while!
To add to all the other responses, I have been using spray cans for decades and this has never happened to any of my cans. I have also never seen anything like that before this.
The above photo seems most telling. I would say those bulges are caused by the vigorous shaking and the agitators hitting the bottom of the can. The distinct depressions are clearly visible. The odd thing is that the tops and bottoms of cans are made from thicker metal than the side wall, so you must have a superhuman strength to be able to make the agitators achieve enough speed (kinetic energy) during your shake stroke to actually dent the bottom of the can! Are you a body-builder? Seriously!
I have taken many empty cans apart and they all seem to have couple of glass ball (about marble-size) agitators. The location of the bulges seem to agree with where the agitator would contact the bottom if it was moving right against the side of the can.
You are one powerful dude! Ease up on the shaking bro! Or if you have wife and kids, ask them to do the shaking for you (unless your entire family is atomic - then ask a neighbor)!
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Like Curt said, making a mask from the decal (photocopy or even hand-tracing) would be the way I would go. Then paint and apply decal after painting. I'm also curious as to why the edge of the paint cannot partially go under the decal (so the edge of the decal defines the demarcation line)? is the decal not opaque enough?
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That engine looks YOOOOGE!
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The other thing that comes with my advancing age is wondering what will become of my collection after I'm gone. My two sons have no interest in my "toys". My 1:1 Mustang GT and '46 Chevy truck and Harley, and my gun collection are no problem as they will split all of that. But, the plastic mountain in my cellar, I fear will be dumped on the curb!
I belong to a model club and we lost few members recently. What the club did was to either buy the deceased member's model collection or auction it off. The proceeds then went to the widow. It was a good chunk of change (even if the models didn't fetch all that much).
You might also consider selling some of the ones which aren't your top favorites on eBay or some other similar website. That will give you extra funds to buy paints and modeling supplies to keep building (unless of course you already have enough of those too).
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We have days here where it's in the 40s one day, and 75-80 the next.
Looks like that saying is more widespread than Chicago and New England.
https://www.google.com/search?q=You+don't+like+the+weather%3F+Wait+five+minutes
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If you are constantly running out of the red-tube Testors glue then you are either building lots of models (dozen a month) or you are painting the entire model with glue. Most kit instructions state to use glue sparingly.
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I'm sure most of you have heard the old saying about the weather in Illinois...
You don't like the weather? Wait five minutes... it'll change!
I don't think so! That is exactly what we say in Boston about the New England weather!
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Totally stupid and useless. Let's find ways to cause MORE accidents in this world..... As if we don't have enough!!!!!!!!!!
It is not about being nice - it is always about maximizing profits.
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there's a brand called Feeling43. They have the most intricate 1/43 kits I have ever seen. The cheapest kit from them I have come across was about $650, an they go up to $950. The problem is these kits are not like 1/24 kits, they require a lot of work and skill to make into nicely detailed models. Soldering, machining, etc. You can slap them together, but they'll look like a die cast.
here is the Facebook of a guy I follow where he has multiple photo galleries that show the steps involved: https://www.facebook.com/Rosso43-762838000500578/?fref=ts
There was Feeling 43 - they closed shop several years ago. When still in production, the kits fetched from a $100 (basic) to few hundred for the super-detailed kits. They also sold hand-assembled versions of their kits (in very limited quantity) and those sold for thousands. Now, because they are gone, the kits have really outrageous prices!
But as you said, those kits are all little gems with gobs of details, but you have to be a true craftsman to build them. They are nothink lils typical plastic kit. But if they are built properly, they are tiny masterpieces,often with more details than many 1:24 models.
Tameo is another company which makes really nice 1:43 kits.
The pre-assembled models from NEO are relatively inexpensive because they are assembled in China, and they don't have the same level of detail as Feeling43 or Tameo kits. All NEO models are curbside slammers (no engine and no under-body details).
Some examples of Feeling43 level of details. This shows you why they are so expensive (they are about half the size of 1:24 scale models).
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My preference (in the 80s) was Centerline wheels. Nice brushed aluminum finish. I had the deep-offset (9.5" wide) wheels in the back of my '76 Camaro.
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I was one who was afraid to ask.
I guess Jimmy prefer to spend a huge chunk of their modeling time to foil their model's trim. But if he is enjoying doing that then that's all that really counts. I prefer the much quicker BMF method. I also never sand, rub down, or polish the car bodies after I paint them. That to me is way too tedious.Jimmy, I'm not sure if you know that if there is any adhesive left over from BMF, you can also easily remove it with Naphtha or the same stuff which works on your foil. I have never heard of anybody stripping their model in purple pond because of a mistake during foil application. You have an interesting foiling technique (which obviously works), but not something I will ever try. Even if there was no more BMF being made, I would rather put some Microscale foil metal adhesive on plain aluminum foil and apply it like like BMF.
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Except for the original chrome foil, all of BMF's other foils are simply aluminum foil with adhesive. Gold and black are coated with some sort of dye or ink, but they are still all aluminum (just look at the adhesive side). However, it is thinner that the standard kitchen aluminum foil, but it is quite stiff compared to the original chrome foil.
Like I wrote in this post I say say that BMF (original chrome only) stretches much more and much easier than any other plain aluminum metal foil (like their bright chrome foil for example). The BMF original chrome is not aluminum foil - it is some sort of an alloy which is much heavier than aluminum. Just crumple some waste pieces together into a ball and you'll be surprised how heavy it feels. Also, unlike aluminum, it melts using regular soldering iron, so I suspect there is some tin or lead in the alloy (or some other low-temperature metal). For those reasons, BMF chrome is the best foil for complex-curved surfaces. No aluminum foil even comes close.
And here is another one of my posts you might find useful.
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I wonder what will happen with all the artwork. I never tried them but I heard they were of good quality and printed on Alps. It tales a long time to clean up artwork (and vectorize it) to produce good quality decals.
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You know, we never landed on the Moon - it was all faked. There is a book about it.
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Nice collection Scott!
If you can produce your own decal artwork, there are decal companies (usually 1-man shops) that can print them for you with white ink (on Alps printers). well, then can do the artwork for you too, but that gets really expensive (because it is time-consuming task). But just printing your print-ready artwork is quite affordable.
Here is a link to a page which lists those custom decal manufacturers (scroll down to the Custom decal companies section):
http://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm
As far as the artwork requirements go, here is an excerpt from http://www.fireballmodels.info/
No, please do not send me any bitmap artwork. I won't print it.
Artwork should be in Vector format for best print results.
Color Matching is an art with Alps printers, not a science. For the most part, precise color matching is not possible.
Convert all type to curves in the final file that you want printed. This ensures your fonts will not cause problems.
Use a neutral-colored background so that the White portions will stand out clearly. The templates have a neutral blue background.
It's a good thing that the filter in this forum does not screen for foreign naughty words. 
Looking for teardrop headlamps for 1930 Packard
in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Posted
That feature was also implemented on cars which were produced later. The 1948 Tucker's center headlight was linked to the steering, and so were the hi-beams of the Citroen DS and SM from the '60s. Even a mid-2000s Citroen C4, C5, and C6 havw headlights which pan to follow the direction of the car.