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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. Another problem I've seen on mostly die-cast Chinese made small scale models (1:43 or 1:64) which are mounted on plastic bases is that the tire material oozes out some sort of clear liquid (plasticizer?) which then softens the plastic base so the tire makes a depression it in.  That is probably similar to the tire rot experienced in the 1:24 plastic kits.  I blame this on using cheap tire-molding ingredients to save on manufacturing costs.

  2. As I see it, many older modelers (who will spend a large part of their income buying plastic model kits) don't do Tweetbooks, Snaptweets or Facechats.  Instead, they like to hang around the old-fashioned online modeling forums. By setting up your little project on FB, you are missing out some important input from those individuals.  We are a dying breed, but after we gone, do we think that the tech-savvy millennials and even younger generation will keep the hobby going and growing?  I sure hope so, but I wouldn't hold my breath . . .

  3. I've decanted rattle cans using other methods, and in all of those (including this post) I've run into the annoyance of the straw getting extremely cold, to the point where my finger got numb.

    That is because the propellent goes from high pressure state (inside the can) to low pressure (ambient) when it sprays out of the nozzle.  Simple laws of physics (and that is how a Freon-based air conditioning works too).  If you decant in a humid environment you also risk water getting into the decanted paint. When the container you are decanting the paint into cools down, water from the ambient air can start condensing on the inside walls, and if enough condenses it can start dripping down into the paint. Not good.

  4. IIRC Pactra went to aluminum lids years before Testor did. They also used PLASTIC bottles instead of glass. Don't thin your plastic-bottle Pactra paint with lacquer thinner or it will chew its way out of there! :blink:

    Aluminum lids?  I have an old (plastic) Pactra bottle and it has a steel lid (magnetic). Same with all (old and new) Testors bottles, Floquil, and Scalecoat bottles I own - they all have steel lids.  I don't ever recall seeing any hobby paint bottles with aluminum lids.

  5. Dave, was there anything on or in the box which identified the owner (you)? Name, address, phone # or email address?  That would help to locate you (even if someone took it to collect ransom/reward).

    Can you re-trace your steps at the NNL? When was the last time you remember seeing or handling that box?  Is it possible that you actually took it out to your vehicle but then left it on the curb or maybe even on the roof of your vehicle?  People do that with their coffee cups and even with babies!

    Hopefully what you learned from your son is true and you will be reunited with your stuff soon!

  6. So will cars from the cars from '70s or '80s will be considered antique or classic when they become 50 years old (or older), or will they never achieve that status?  It seems that while the time marches on (it is now the year 2017) the dates defining "antique" or "classic" cars seem to be static.

     

    For example, will my 1985 Caddy Eldorado Biarritz be considered an antique in 2085? :)  At that time all we'll have left will probably be self-driving cars to ride in. :wacko::wacko:

  7. I spoke to Ed Sexton directly about the 1977-79 T-Birds (besides writing it on the wanted list), and how there are some things that could be shared with the Torino, namely the chassis and running gear. I said that even if it was a snapper lowrider I'd take it!

    He raised his eyebrows and said, "Hmmm......"

    Time will tell! :D 

    That would be cool!  I owned a 77 T-Bird for a while (it was a hand-me-down from my mom). Mine was cream/dark brown.  It sure was a unique looking car.

  8. I have some Micro Mark CR-300 urethane resin I've been using for over a year.  Recent castings have tiny (less than 1 mm) bubbles just below the surface of the bottom of the piece, i.e., next to the detailed part of the slush mold.  I've squeezed the resin bottles to get as much air out as possible.  Is there any cure?  Sanding causes the bubbles to expand and once their surface is open I have not been able to fill or seal them.  BTW, I greatly prefer CR-300 to any alternative I've tried:  little smell, easy to work (a little softer than model car styrene).

    Uncured urethane resin absorbs moisture from the ambient air. That will cause bubbles when cured (through a chemical reaction).  If you had your resin for a year then it most likely absorbed moisture with the expected result.  You need to buy a fresh batch. You can use a gas-blanket spray to prolong the shelf life (Micro-Mark should sell that too), but even using that the resin will eventually be unusable (it unfortunately has a short shelf life).  Also, if there is any moisture in the molds, that will also cause bubbles to form in the resin.

  9. It should be also mentioned that it is not really "chrome"  - the process is vacuum-metal-deposition of aluminum over plastic.  Same "chrome" process used by most model kit manufacturers. While it looks like chrome, the metallic coating is nowhere as durable as Chromium plating. While it will work for small 1:1 car parts, it will not withstand constant handling (on things like door handles or radio knobs).

  10. It sounds like you were trying clear-film decal paper. Alps white "ink" is not any more opaque than white (not clear) decal paper.   The other colors of the flag will be translucent and also need a white undercoat to show properly when applied to a colored car body.

    Since this basically a long and thin 3-color stripe, can't you just mask and paint it?

  11. not an issue mate don't have facebook, I barely get emails and I am of the personal opinion that a text can wait my mobile when I am driving is usually off in the glovebox or at least in the centre console if I am expecting a call(which I'll pull over to answer) but most of the time it is off and the music loud?

    Good for you!  I'm glad to know that you are responsible driver.

  12. Thanks ! Yes, you are correct. The driving light lens are 90 degrees off. It bugs me too. I thought about cutting the pin off the back. That will let it rotate. Once it's done, I'm committed. My biggest fear is the hole behind will really become obvious. The lenses are held on with water soluble glue, so it can be done. I don't know who designed these kits. They did so many things really nice and really screwed up some other things really bad. I hope the dies aren't lost somewhere in China. I'd really like to see these revised again with updates.

    So the lenses have keyed center-posts which force you to position them incorrectly?  That is pretty poor research on the designer's end.

    As far as the master cylinder goes, Steve is correct. No lines or wires should come out of the cover. But the master cylinder's lower part would have a brake fluid line going to the rear brake and also a wire coming from the brake light switch.

  13. Man -that is SHARP   Amazing attention to detail- the stripe is super crisp. the interior looks real and the engine bay as does the under chassis.  my only critique is the wipers- they need the rubber blades painted and to be positioned better. besides that it looks real!!!

    I'm glad someone mentioned this before me. The wipers are the only distraction from otherwise gorgeous large-scale model!  IN this scale you should be able to fairly easily fabricate wipers which look as real as the rest of the model.  Not only they are too thick for the scale, they almost look like their locations were swapped. Left wiper is on the right side of the car and right wiper on the left.  They look really odd.

    If not for the wipers, that model could pass for the 1:1 car.

    e0989116d9461586448b2c6bad7ae1db.jpg

  14. I have not used the Vallejo version, but I have used other brands of transparent and candy paints.

    Candy colors are transparent and they really stand out when applied over a silver or gold (metallic base). Transparent colors can also be used to tint clear plastic tail lights, directional lenses, emergency strobes, windows, etc.  You could apply them as a body color over a light-colored non-metallic paint but the effect will not be very impressive.

     

  15. IMG_0063_zpsghium33x.jpg

    Really nice job!  But one thing bugs the heck out of me - the  orientation of the lenses in the driving lights!  Especially on a large-scale model this stands out like a sore thumb (at least to me).  The headlight is correct but the striations in the driving light lenses should be vertical (like in the headlight).  They are 90 degrees off. If they were keyed then the factory screwed up.

  16. I'm not an industry expert, not I play one on the forum, but here are my thoughts: Diecast models have lower parts count (than full-detail plastic kits), so the would make them less expansive to produce. I don't think that making a mold for a die-cast body is much different than for a plastic body. They need to use slide molds in either case. Diecast models usually have opening hood, doors, and sometimes trunk. So that is more complex than a typical plastic model with an opening hood.  Also don't forget that diecast models still use many plastic and vinyl/rubber parts.

    But plastic kits and diecast model cars are like apples and oranges - diecasts target totally different market.

    The big selling feature of diecasts is that they are fully painted ans factory-assembled. And some are very impressive with lots of details (hand-assembled bu some lady in China). They target the collector marked and/or the owners of the 1:1 cars, not model builders. Sure, some model builders are also collectors and they will buy diecasts, but I guess that the majority of people buying diecasts are not model builders.

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