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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. CA glues do not "dry" - they harden by a chemical reaction (they polymerize). Moisture will cause them to slowly harden - if you have a new unopened tube or bottle and the moisture doe s not penetrate inside then the glue will remain usable for many years.  But once you open the bottle the moisture from the ambient air will get in and will slowly cause the glue to thicken up (it is not thickening because a solvent is evaporating).  Some good info is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate .

    CA adhesives have a short shelf life. Date-stamped containers help to ensure that the adhesive is still viable. One manufacturer supplies the following information and advice:

    When kept unopened in a cool, dry location such as a refrigerator at a temperature of about 55 °F (13 °C), the shelf life of cyanoacrylate will be extended from about one year from manufacture to at least 15 months. If the adhesive is to be used within six months, it is not necessary to refrigerate it. Cyanoacrylates are moisture-sensitive, and moving from a cool to a hot location will create condensation; after removing from the refrigerator, it is best to let the adhesive reach room temperature before opening. After opening, it should be used within 30 days. Open containers should not be refrigerated.[30]

    Another manufacturer says that the maximum shelf life of 12 months is obtained for some of their cyanoacrylates if the original containers are stored at 35 to 40 °F (2 to 4 °C).[31] User forums and some manufacturers say that an almost unlimited shelf life is attainable by storing unopened at −4 °F (−20 °C), the typical temperature of a domestic freezer, and allowing the contents to reach room temperature before use.[32] Rechilling an opened container may cause moisture from the air to condense in the container; however, reports from hobbyists suggest that storing CA in a freezer can preserve opened cyanoacrylate indefinitely.

    As cyanoacrylates age, they polymerize, become thicker, and cure more slowly. They can be thinned with a cyanoacrylate of the same chemical composition with lower viscosity.[33] Storing cyanoacrylates below 0 °F (−18 °C) will nearly stop the polymerization process and prevent aging.

     

    One thing that is puzzling is that I have never seen CA glue going "bad" where it is still as liquid as expected but even the accelerator will not cause it to harden. In my experience (as mentioned above) I have only seen CA going bad by thickening or totally solidifying in its container.

  2. What file extension do you need it in? I have two versions of PSP and could export it for you.

    I use Corel Draw 10 (and 12), so the native format is .CDR, but it can also import many other formats (but not .PSP).  My Corel Draw is rather old, so maybe the never versions can directly import .PSP files.  The problem with import/export is that you often lose layer settings and everything gets imported as a large group of objects.

    I should also say that I'm not really thinking of picking up the artwork, but I'm glad to see that the artwork was done in vector-graphic format and that it has been passed onto someone who will continue the business instead of just being stagnant on some old computer..

  3. The pineapple I posted above was printed on a Solus desktop 3d printer that also printed this figure. It is a DLP machine that uses a dlp projector to cure uv resin into a finished product.

     

    This is the same technology I use to create my prints. Yes, the technology to print in such fine setting that the detail is superb and lines disappear is here. Expensive? Not really. And, there are many more machines that will give you a decent result at prices down to 1k. If you are going to do any amount of printing, purchasing may be a good move. Check out their website and look at the gallery of 3d prints this machine produced. I can give you many more examples of dlp and sla machines costing thousands less than Shapeway machines and, in some cases, a better print.

      http://www.junction3d.com/

    Yes, different printing methods yield different results.  There are also tradeoffs such as the maximum size of the printed object and printing speed.  What is the cost of the resin that you use?  For example, how much did it cost to print that figure?


  4. The military figures looked good. So why do they look good, while Shapeway products readily admit their products are grainy to the touch? How similar was the units that printed each?

    Because they appear to be rendered on a printer which can print in a resolution magnitudes higher than anything Shapeways owns.  But this comes with a cost. The printer and the material cost for high-res printers are also magnitudes higher than Shapeways units. Not all 3D printers are the same.  :)

  5.  To anyone who want to know they were all done with paint shop pro.They would be printable with an alps printer.

    Interesting. I always thought of Paint Shop Pro as a raster (bitmap) editor, but looking a bit deeper it seems that version 7 and later can handle vector graphics too.  I use Corel Draw 10 and I don't see any easy way to import Paint Shop Pro files into Corel.

  6. I would not recommend buying Alps printer for a casual user. Not only these printers are long discontinued with very limited support, they are finicky and often a pain do deal with.  This opinion is from a personal experience (I'm a seasoned Alps owner).  :D

    To me it would make more sense to get a vector-based drawing program, learn to use it, and then have your artwork printed by one of the custom decal producers who use Alps printers.  That way you leave the hard stuff to them.  If you have print-ready or almost-print-ready artwork, that will save you the cost of artwork design and you'll only pay for printing.

    There are free vector-graphic programs (such as Inkscape) or you can pick up older versions of Corel Draw on eBay for less than $50. Either is more than adequate for designing decal artwork.

    It also makes sense to combine artwork for several project into single decal artwork to save even more money.

  7. This was my first thought too , the artwork needs to be in a SVG format to be useful . If they're a bitmap or anything else they'll need to be redrawn using Corel or AI .

    To be pedantic, any vector-graphic format. SVG (Scalable Vector Graphics) is just one specific type of formats for storing vector graphics.  Corel uses its own format (.CDR file extension) and Adobe uses .AI file extension.  But of course there are ways to convert between various formats.

  8. Many of the decal companies listed on that website will create artwork for your decals (but since that takes time, the price will be much higher).

     

    As far as good deals on Alps printers on eBay - beware!  Many have damaged heads which makes them pretty much useless.  Then, even if they are good, many will get damaged in shipping by being improperly packaged (and by rough handling).

  9. Im new to this hobby, the number one thing I've done to improve my modelling skills was joining this forum and patcipating in the activity. Biggest thing was accepting the fact that I wasn't going to get the same results as everyone else. That's why I participate! It's a big help everyone is so helpful here. I also took and still do take baby steps so to speak. Each model build I look at my last one and think "I really don't like how this part turned out" so my next one that may be my focus. I just try to build my next one a little better than my last or a little more detail than the last.. For me this makes it "fun" and in the end I'm left with something that looks good on the shelf. 

    I also feel that one more thing should be mentioned. The build quality also depends on how fastidious (read "anal") the modeler is.  It really helps to improve the quality if you sweat the small details. Some people are naturally that way while others have to learn to sweat the small stuff. I also see examples where some people don't seem capable of really sweating the small stuff (is is just not in their nature). They are just more sloppy than other people.  Those people can still build decent models (which can place in the category they enter in - maybe even a first place) but they might never win the "best of" award at any show.  But that is ok - as long as they enjoy what they do.

  10. The mnemonic for the resistor color code is racist and sexist, at least as it was taught to me

     

     

    The one we used in tech school was Bad boys rape our young girls but Violet gives willingly.

    Here is a nice compilation of bunch of them (including the raicst one).

    Form the clean versions I like this one: Better Buy Resistors Or Your Grid Bias Voltages Go West

  11. Guess I missed all those. Never asked for false praise. Just not being rude. 

    I'm just curious as to which specific statement in "Incredibly lifelike dio photos that lack life. While he is obviously very good at what he does, there are never any people in his shots. There are cars "driving" down the street with nobody inside! The lack pf people gives his photos sort of an eerie, "ghost town" quality. Of course , in some of his setups it's perfectly believable that there would not necessarily be any people in the shots... but in others the lack of people looks odd." is rude?

    To me that sounds like someone's honest opinion.

    I also think that no matter what Michael says, if he included people figures, the realism would be instantly lost. I have not see any 1:25 scale figures out there (no matter how well done) which would look like real humans.  You can instantly tell they are figures. Michael strives for ultra-realism by using natural (not modeled) backgrounds. Figures would ruin the illusion.

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