peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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How is Little Motor Kar Company?
I have not used them yet but I was told that they did all the plating (metalizing) for Modelhaus.
I also had few less-than-perfect experiences with Chrome Tech so I'm ready to move on. I just don't have any parts that need plating right now.
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I hadn't noticed this going on until I saw these two threads. I now see them every week. Every one from China with free shipping. Every one is hundreds of dollars worth of models or Resin parts for less than $30. Every one has 0 feedback. Every one is "But-it-Now." My question is this: what is the motive? It seems like a lot for just $25 or so. I realize that they will receive your name and address, but what other info can they get? I've sold on Ebay before, and I don't think that I had access to any information regarding the buyer. Is there some way they are able to access your info for a larger payoff, or is this simply several $25 scams?
I was wondering the same thing. What do they gain frm the scam? The payment I'm sure is refunded to the buyer (by either PayPal or eBay) but they do have the buyer's address. But what good is that for them?
BTW, I reported one of these scam listings last night - it is already gone.
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Probably one kit Norm Veber does not have.
Is Norm a big collector of rare models? I know he is an excellent resin caster, but I didn't know he collects models.
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Nope, those are both based on the Cadillac commercial chassis, which Caddy offered specifically for companies that would be converting them to ambulances, hearses, flower cars, etc.
As previously stated, the Eldorado was a separate model, specifically the top trim level of the 2-door hardtop and convertible (Seville and Biarritz, can't remember for sure which was which). Main visual difference was different side trim. Google 1959 and 1960 Eldorado and you should be able to see the obvious differences. This brings us full circle to the first comment on this issue: the Ecto-1A ambulance diecast in the video is incorrectly labeled as an Eldorado on the card. And yes, I realize that 99% of the diecast collectors who will be buying it won't care...
Point taken.
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And here's a 1983 Eldorado hearse.
I own a 1985 Eldorado, and all I can say is that this thing us UGLY!
Here is a 1960 Eldorado Hearse.
And a 1959 Eldorado Ambulance.
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While I don't want to scare anybody, the official word is here. As with all government regulations, it seems very complicated.
Having said that, I have been buying model (and some other) items online from foreign sellers (through eBay, Amazon, etc.) for about 17 years and I have never been charged any duties.
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After exchanging couple of PMs with fiat boy I realized that I missed the fact that he mentioned that he was a subscriber to the magazine. So his question is not as strange as I first thought.
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You can do the same thing with "Laser Bond" glue.
Squeeze in a drop, hit it with UV light & it's hardened in a couple of seconds.
Steve
I would be cautious with this one too. To begin with, it has a slightly amber tint and also since it is UV-cured, it does not (by design) have any UV protection, so it might also yellow in time.
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Be careful using 5 min. epoxy for gauge lenses! Over time especially if the gauges have a white background, the epoxy can yellow making your gauges appear yellow as well.
Yes, I agree - I have experienced this problem few times and I no longer use any of the epoxy adhesives (especially the 5-minute type) to represent clear lenses. Also, most epoxies have slight amber tint to begin with. But I had it turn deep amber after several years.
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Hi Mike,
Although I would caution depending on MCM for long term photo hosting as you never know what can happen to the Big Kahuna.
If anybody solely use any online photo hosting site for the only copy of a photo, that is foolish. I would not feel sorry for them if they lost them.
The only reason I upload photos to online sites it to share them with others. Mostly in online forums. I always have multiple copies stored locally (one on a live hard drive on my PC and couple of backups on removable media). I like the idea of hosting photos for a forum, on the forum itself - that way they will be viewable (in the posts) for as long as the forum is around.
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I only use my photos on the forum I'm posting them to. So I like the idea of having the photo hosted here for the posts I create here. And now we can do just that. Of course I have all my photos on my PC and also 2 copies of backups.
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Some more trivia: That's the Eisenhower era. Actually, Interstates were also laid out with Civil Defense in mind...every XX number of miles had to have a straight stretch of YYYY feet so aircraft could land.
I've have heard that too, but it seems that it is an urban legend.
This is some good reading material: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interstate_Highway_System
I also see this sign on I 93 North right before crossing from MA to NH.
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The 30AWG Wire Wrapping wire's outside diameter (with insulation) is about 0.016" or up to 0.020". That is good for representing the 1:24 scale high-performance ignition wire, but too thick for average pedestrian factory-stock model car.
Detail Master sells 0.012" overall diameter ignition wire which is expensive but gives a better scale representation of the factory-stock wire. I also use Detail Master 0.007" detail wire for ignition wires in 1:43 scale cars. Pro-Tech also has some nice ignition wire. Those thinner wires are pretty much imposable to find in small quantities.
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Yes, many of the model train hobby items can be used for our hobby and vice versa (I dabble in many hobbies myself).
Yes, the prices are usually higher when things like wire are bought from model railroad vendors instead of other sources (like industrial electrical suppliers). The model railroad decoder wires are nice and flexible, but most are too thick for representing 1:24 plug wires. They are good for modeling thicker wires - like battery cables or for representing rubber hoses.
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You might be diluting the paint too much. Try thinning it less.
Last time I did a grille black wash I used slightly thinned Testors flat black enamel (from the little square glass bottle). I wasn't too worried about the parts of the grill which are supposed to remain shiny getting some paint on them. Right after the paint dried (became flat), I wiped the surface of the grill with a piece of old T-shirt slightly moistened with Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid). I suppose that the Testors paint thinner would have worked too. The trick is not to wait too long - if you let the paint dry really well and harden, it will be difficult to remove.
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Yikes that's ugly.......
That is what I was thinking too. Some new car designs are just a bit much for me.
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I cant say I have noticed any issues or had to use any sort of "work arounds" to get Ebay to work, it just does.
I guess there are many definitions of what "works".
The site is extremely bloated with unneeded functionality and hard to navigate. Don't get me started on the searches. I wish we could go back about 12 years. At that time eBay was simple and easy to navigate. I used to spend a lot of time there back then - now I mostly avoid it. They also try very hard to become another Amazon with the type of listings they now allow. No more being a worldwide flea market - it is mostly full-time professional sellers.
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The 30 AWG Kynar wire-wrapping wire is often used for high performance spark plug wires in 1:24 scale models. The 30 AWG wire itself has a diameter of 0.010" and the overall diameter with the insulation is about 0.016". That works out to be 0.38 scale inches in 1:24 scale model.
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Different metals, different but subtle shades of silver. The plating used on model car parts at the factory is actually vaporized aluminum, and aluminum is a very "whitish"silver in color, but has been accepted for decades for replicating the chromium plating on real cars. FWIW, chromium plating isn't a pure silver color either, but rather it has just a hint of blue to it, when compared side-by-side with real silver (which of course is true silver in color). Place a piece of polished aluminum next to clean and polished chrome plating, the difference is quite visible indeed. BMF is right in there--it's bright metal for sure, but it's definitely not chromium--chromium is too hard, too springy to ever be used as we use BMF.
Virtually all automobile body side trim, from the late 1930's onward (save for some cars in the era 1958 to about 1962) were fitted with anodized aluminum side spears (Chevrolet 1958-60 was a prime example) which is not only a bit dull in sheen, but very whitish in sheen as well. Polished stainless steel, with its 10%or more nickel content, is actually slightly "brownish" in shade--if you compare a mint-uncirulated US Nickel to any silver coin (or sterling silver even) you can readily see that difference.
Actually Art, BMF's original chrome foil has a warm (slightly yellow or brown) tone. It reminds me of nickel plating more than chrome (which as you said is slightly blue). I think that some early car manufacturers started using nickel plating at the end of the brass era.
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I have one of those kits (partially started) and I wish I bought few more when they were still in production. I think I bought mine from Satco (another great company I miss). So of course they seem to command pretty high price nowadays.
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...and he has close to 300 posts under his belt. Almost as if someone hacked fiatboy's account and wants to post some SPAM to reac all the members.
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Greg,
The stuff pulls oils from the paints or you hands so make sure you're wearing gloves. I
Um, it is a bit more potent that that. It contains, among other chemicals, Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) which will literally destroy human tissue. That's the stuff murderers use to dissolve the corpses of their victims!
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Acetate/blister packs for windows, and either clear epoxy or Bondic for small parts like head light/tail light lenses.
I think we use the name "Acetate" like "Kleenex" is used to describe facial tissues. I don't think that actual Acetate has been used by hobbyists for the last 40 years or longer. The clear films we use nowadays are Polystyrene, PET, PETG, Acrylic, Lexan and few others. While they are all transparent, they are much more stable than Acetate.
Found a very (extreme?) rare modelkit, dare I say it?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
And I thought that since he was so busy with resin casting he had not time to build or collect model kits.
Speaking of RMCoM, I hope he keeps it going for the foreseeable future. We lost Modelhaus, losing another top-quality resin caster would hurt really bad!