peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Yes, many of the model train hobby items can be used for our hobby and vice versa (I dabble in many hobbies myself).
Yes, the prices are usually higher when things like wire are bought from model railroad vendors instead of other sources (like industrial electrical suppliers). The model railroad decoder wires are nice and flexible, but most are too thick for representing 1:24 plug wires. They are good for modeling thicker wires - like battery cables or for representing rubber hoses.
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You might be diluting the paint too much. Try thinning it less.
Last time I did a grille black wash I used slightly thinned Testors flat black enamel (from the little square glass bottle). I wasn't too worried about the parts of the grill which are supposed to remain shiny getting some paint on them. Right after the paint dried (became flat), I wiped the surface of the grill with a piece of old T-shirt slightly moistened with Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid). I suppose that the Testors paint thinner would have worked too. The trick is not to wait too long - if you let the paint dry really well and harden, it will be difficult to remove.
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Yikes that's ugly.......
That is what I was thinking too. Some new car designs are just a bit much for me.
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I cant say I have noticed any issues or had to use any sort of "work arounds" to get Ebay to work, it just does.
I guess there are many definitions of what "works".
The site is extremely bloated with unneeded functionality and hard to navigate. Don't get me started on the searches. I wish we could go back about 12 years. At that time eBay was simple and easy to navigate. I used to spend a lot of time there back then - now I mostly avoid it. They also try very hard to become another Amazon with the type of listings they now allow. No more being a worldwide flea market - it is mostly full-time professional sellers.
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The 30 AWG Kynar wire-wrapping wire is often used for high performance spark plug wires in 1:24 scale models. The 30 AWG wire itself has a diameter of 0.010" and the overall diameter with the insulation is about 0.016". That works out to be 0.38 scale inches in 1:24 scale model.
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Different metals, different but subtle shades of silver. The plating used on model car parts at the factory is actually vaporized aluminum, and aluminum is a very "whitish"silver in color, but has been accepted for decades for replicating the chromium plating on real cars. FWIW, chromium plating isn't a pure silver color either, but rather it has just a hint of blue to it, when compared side-by-side with real silver (which of course is true silver in color). Place a piece of polished aluminum next to clean and polished chrome plating, the difference is quite visible indeed. BMF is right in there--it's bright metal for sure, but it's definitely not chromium--chromium is too hard, too springy to ever be used as we use BMF.
Virtually all automobile body side trim, from the late 1930's onward (save for some cars in the era 1958 to about 1962) were fitted with anodized aluminum side spears (Chevrolet 1958-60 was a prime example) which is not only a bit dull in sheen, but very whitish in sheen as well. Polished stainless steel, with its 10%or more nickel content, is actually slightly "brownish" in shade--if you compare a mint-uncirulated US Nickel to any silver coin (or sterling silver even) you can readily see that difference.
Actually Art, BMF's original chrome foil has a warm (slightly yellow or brown) tone. It reminds me of nickel plating more than chrome (which as you said is slightly blue). I think that some early car manufacturers started using nickel plating at the end of the brass era.
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I have one of those kits (partially started) and I wish I bought few more when they were still in production. I think I bought mine from Satco (another great company I miss). So of course they seem to command pretty high price nowadays.
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...and he has close to 300 posts under his belt. Almost as if someone hacked fiatboy's account and wants to post some SPAM to reac all the members.
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Greg,
The stuff pulls oils from the paints or you hands so make sure you're wearing gloves. I
Um, it is a bit more potent that that. It contains, among other chemicals, Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) which will literally destroy human tissue. That's the stuff murderers use to dissolve the corpses of their victims!
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Acetate/blister packs for windows, and either clear epoxy or Bondic for small parts like head light/tail light lenses.
I think we use the name "Acetate" like "Kleenex" is used to describe facial tissues. I don't think that actual Acetate has been used by hobbyists for the last 40 years or longer. The clear films we use nowadays are Polystyrene, PET, PETG, Acrylic, Lexan and few others. While they are all transparent, they are much more stable than Acetate.
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The Chrome BMF (not the Ultra-Chrome) has a warm tone to it. It always has. It is normal. The color of BMF chrome foil in your photo is what I would expect to see (when compared to a kit's "chromed" part).
That is because it is neither chrome nor aluminum - it is some sort of custom alloy of soft and pliable metals. There might be some tin in that alloy because, unlike aluminum foil it can be melted with a regular soldering iron. But because it is a special alloy, it is very easy to work with and it conforms (stretches and compresses) over curved surfaces.
If you really want the chrome-like cool tone then you would have to use the Ultra-Bright foil. That one seems to be made from aluminum which has a more chrome-like color, but it is much stiffer and harder to get to conform to curved surfaces. Another alternative would be to use the Alclad II Chrome paint method, Spaz Stix or a Molotov chrome pen. Or if you are really building a contest-quality model then you could sent those parts to be "chromed" (which is the same method of vacuum aluminizing used by the model companies for their "chromed" parts).
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Yup - very creative (and looks good too)!
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While what Photobucket did is really underhanded I doubt they will go out of business. There are probably still millions of users (both free and with paid subscriptions) that use Photobucket for their Photo storage and sharing. After all, they only disabled 3rd party hosting. You can still view user's albums on the site and share links to the photos in emails, etc.
I have a free account and was only using them for 3rd party hosting, so I'm no longer using them. I left my account active in case they decide that what they did was stupid, but I'm not holding my breath. The forum sites I frequent now allow for local photo storage so I'm slowly updating my old posts with locally stored photos.
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Sorry, I thought the OP was just asking about the lines in the etching.
[broke my first rule about posting here
]Well, if you want to split hairs, the word "etching" was not even mentioned in the original post - only the lines exposed after priming.
But since the surface crazing/etching (or whatever you want to call it) also prominently shows up in those photos, and both, the lines and crazing are caused by the same thing (primer too hot) I can see why both were mentioned in the replies. Then a solution was provided (to fix both problems). I don't see anything wrong with that.
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I also have doubts that if a listing disappears, how can a buyer be scammed. Ok, if someone does buy the item, I don't think the listing cab be deleted after it is sold. SO that woudl show up in that sellers completed items history. If the listing is pulled by the it usually still shows up with a reason it ended early. I'm not sure if there is an option to just delete the listing but then again, that would have to be done before someone bought it. So how does the scam work?
I also noticed some strange activities from a Chinese seller. I watch for the Revell Can-Do wrecker kit and few weeks ago there were 2 listings for that kit from China by a seller with zero feedback for a really low price and free shipping. I found that odd since it is a rather large box. I was watching both listings and one of them was actually completed (someone bought the kit) while the 2nd listing just disappeared. The sellers name is skvhv689097 and I'm watching to see if they will get a feedback for the kit that sold.
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Wow! That is pretty drastic. Faded from warm gold tone (orange) to chrome silver. And same with the taillight lens.
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Amazon needs people to pick and pack their orders.
Ha! Not for much longer. Here is some interesting info: Amazon is using robots in their warehouses
Amazon is one of the leaders when it comes to automation. Not only the robots will be quicker and more accurate than humans, but also much cheaper. Robots don't need salaries or benefits.
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Thanks Ray! That was about a year's worth of fun (and few frustrating moments).
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My most complex lighting project was the Peterbilt Can-Do Wrecker. I built it in the '90s. It was before small SMD size LEDs became available but I was able to get some small red and amber LEDs which I used for all the red and amber lights. Headlights and fog-lights are small 1.5V bulbs from Miniatronics.
I designed and built the power supplies and flashers and housed them inside the wrecker body. This was before the Arduinos and Raspbery Pi were available.
The channel display (showing "19") on the CB radio is also backlit with a green LED.
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Depressing reading...alot of lost info.
Not lost - the photos should all be there. It is just that Photobucket will no longer serve them out to other websites - you can still view them (or download them) all directly on their website. Or if you pay them $400 per year, they will re-enable the old functionality.
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Coming along nicely! Also the paint bottles and the lid give a good idea of just how small that figure is.
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That brings back memories - I still have mine, stashed in the basement, with only the standing rigging completed. I left it like that about 30 years ago.
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Great replica!
Jane Swift bumper sticker? Must have been a while back as I haven't seen that sticker (or even the name) for a while.
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different diameter plug wires available?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
The 30AWG Wire Wrapping wire's outside diameter (with insulation) is about 0.016" or up to 0.020". That is good for representing the 1:24 scale high-performance ignition wire, but too thick for average pedestrian factory-stock model car.
Detail Master sells 0.012" overall diameter ignition wire which is expensive but gives a better scale representation of the factory-stock wire. I also use Detail Master 0.007" detail wire for ignition wires in 1:43 scale cars. Pro-Tech also has some nice ignition wire. Those thinner wires are pretty much imposable to find in small quantities.